Switched to Rotella, changed separator and hoses...more to come, wires and plugs, etc
Great day in my LR-DIY experiences. Changed to Rotella Regular, switched to the mammoth Mann/Purolator and changed out the separator and hoses.
Truck runs smoother and quieter I believe but I need to take her on a small voyage to see if engine tick returns. Seems to happen when she's been warmed up and running.
While simple for you guys, this was the most extensive mechanical DIY for me and I owe it all to this forum. Special thanks as always to Spike, Sava and RoverMasterTech for breaking it down. It's giving me confidence to do the hubs and other bits I have planned.
Few things:
That oil separator is less than impressive. Mine was stuck and gunked up. I don't know how oil gets through it in the first place not to mention if it's all gunked up like mine. I broke it taking it out but did not lose any pieces in the tube. I had to lightly sand the new one to get it to fit as it wouldn't go it.
That's some messy job. Can't imagine how you get all the oil in the canister without spilling it all over the place.
Lastly, I still have some leaks to investigate but I am sure my oil pan is leaking. The Inde shop put it on when they did the front cover and timing chain. My mechanic tightened it a bit but I'm worried I have to take it off again and reinstall it. I need to figure that out.
I've been cleaning hoses and insuring clamps are tight to determine where my leaks are so I'm bound to find more fixable problems as well. Power steering fluid is leaking from somewhere so I need to get to it.
But I feel like I can do it. Thanks again guys.
Next to conquer:
-Induction clean
-Plugs
-Wires
-Hubs
-Lube propshafts
-Change Diff and transmission fluids
Truck runs smoother and quieter I believe but I need to take her on a small voyage to see if engine tick returns. Seems to happen when she's been warmed up and running.
While simple for you guys, this was the most extensive mechanical DIY for me and I owe it all to this forum. Special thanks as always to Spike, Sava and RoverMasterTech for breaking it down. It's giving me confidence to do the hubs and other bits I have planned.
Few things:
That oil separator is less than impressive. Mine was stuck and gunked up. I don't know how oil gets through it in the first place not to mention if it's all gunked up like mine. I broke it taking it out but did not lose any pieces in the tube. I had to lightly sand the new one to get it to fit as it wouldn't go it.
That's some messy job. Can't imagine how you get all the oil in the canister without spilling it all over the place.
Lastly, I still have some leaks to investigate but I am sure my oil pan is leaking. The Inde shop put it on when they did the front cover and timing chain. My mechanic tightened it a bit but I'm worried I have to take it off again and reinstall it. I need to figure that out.
I've been cleaning hoses and insuring clamps are tight to determine where my leaks are so I'm bound to find more fixable problems as well. Power steering fluid is leaking from somewhere so I need to get to it.
But I feel like I can do it. Thanks again guys.
Next to conquer:
-Induction clean
-Plugs
-Wires
-Hubs
-Lube propshafts
-Change Diff and transmission fluids
thanks.....i make stuff all the time and i'm confident in my artistic, craftsman and handyman skills. but i never worked on a vehicle before. for me this is all very new. probably why i'm having fun with it.
when you guys lay it out like you do I can follow your directions no problem. most of the time.
when you guys lay it out like you do I can follow your directions no problem. most of the time.
Here is what you do about the oil pan leaking, check all of the bolts for snugness.
Just put your socket on there with your ratchet and snug them up, to tight and you will crush the gasket and it will leak, not tight enough and it will leak.
Then if it still leaks after that wait until your next oil change and replace the oil pan gasket then.
Just put your socket on there with your ratchet and snug them up, to tight and you will crush the gasket and it will leak, not tight enough and it will leak.
Then if it still leaks after that wait until your next oil change and replace the oil pan gasket then.
Here is what you do about the oil pan leaking, check all of the bolts for snugness.
Just put your socket on there with your ratchet and snug them up, to tight and you will crush the gasket and it will leak, not tight enough and it will leak.
Then if it still leaks after that wait until your next oil change and replace the oil pan gasket then.
Just put your socket on there with your ratchet and snug them up, to tight and you will crush the gasket and it will leak, not tight enough and it will leak.
Then if it still leaks after that wait until your next oil change and replace the oil pan gasket then.
If not pulled out with needle nose pliers, then a few squirts of carb cleaner down the opening. It is a series of "baffles", only on the passenger side. There is a similar pipe on driver side, just no baffles on that one.


