Ahh. Only done during a oil change?

 

i think if there's oil in it it will spill out when you take the hose out to remove the separator. anyway, that's why i waited for the change. i'm curious what would happen if there was no separator or if it's gunked up. Sava said on another thread it would create pressure somewhere else. It's so small and tight I would think it could stop flow completely. Mine also broke coming out. I was worried about getting all the bits out which I was able to. It's really a junky little piece of plastic with kinda a big responsibility.

 

The separator's job is to act as a baffle so oil that tries to get sucked into the plenum is blocked, and it drools back down into the engine. It is a small piece of plastic, and any wet oil would be minimal. If obstructed with gunk it can in certain conditions increase pressure inside the engine (it is a vent for the engine). This can make oil leak out of places where there really isn't a lot of oil pressure, but that seals and gaskets are present. Like front seal, rear main seal, valve cover and oil pan gaskets, etc.

In the dark ages, before Positive Crankcase Ventilation, there was a vent cap on a valve cover or front of the engine, with steel wool or such behind it, to allow fumes to escape into the atmosphere. You could see the smoke come out. These fumes come from the oil inside. Same thing happens more slowly in the axles and transfer case, that's why they have a vent tube. Eventually, the EPA will want us to tie those back to the engine as well.

 

Sava....my separator may sit a little higher than the one in the diagram. I didn't want to force it down further as it was super snug. do you think it matters.

ColoDisco wants to know if he can do the change without oil pouring out...which it seems like it would be ok to do based on your previous post.

 

that's the same EPA (Christie Whitless?) that told me not to worry about the ashes on my window sill after the towers came down? you know what I say right?

 

Is it possible to do it without changing the oil?

 

Yes you can change the oil separator without changing the oil. Just pull it out. There should be minimal oil on it, if at all.

 

I did mine with no problem. I was replacing the hoses as well due to mine still having the original hoses. That one was decaying on the inside. I basically yanked the old one out with good needlenose pliers, kept it and pushed the new one in. It was snug like Slang said. Those hose are different sizes on each end so you are better offf buying the correct ones than trying generic. You want a good vacumn seal there.

Like Savannah said, it is supposed to route the fumes back into the intake and the liquid oil drip back into engine. Slang if you was total gunk, then you may want to consider getting new valve cover gaskets, and do a remove, inspect, clean type operation at the valve covers. That is one thing on my "future to be done list".

Also on that same list is to remove and clean intake plenum and reseal.

Slang, congratulations on tackling the oil change and other work. Where did you get the oil filter from? Sounds like a good one, I want one of them and Rotella for my next change as well.

I did my wheel bearings all around. I have a good write-up I found and printed, I will grab it and give you the link soon. Did my rear brakes completely along with that since you have to remove wheel bearings to replace rotors. I dove in head first on that and replaced rotors, calipers, pads, repacked the existing bearings since they were still good. Remember the double lipped seals if you plan to off-road that beast in wet areas. AntiChrist is a fan of them and has listed them many times, same as used on the Defender I think. They do better at keeping water out if fording. You will also need a removal tool for that big nut holding the bearings in. You will enjoy packing bearings, if you want to avoid making huge mess buy one of the little bearing packing sets at the parts store, or you an wear surgical gloves and use Saran Wrap, sorta like an emergency condom.

Lucas makes a really good synthetic Red Tractor Grease that is supposed to be waterproof and excellent bearing grease.

On the diff's make sure the fill plug comes out first before you drain them. I also used lots of PB Blaster in advance if they have not been opened recently and get the hand pump that attaches right to the container makes it much easier. I used the 85w140 Mobil One on my Center Diff to help quiet it down. The front and rear I had already done with the lighter stuff.

And do not forget the Swivel *****, they should be refilled, mine has drains, some do, some do not. I used the one shot packs from Trevor at Rover Farms.

Also, I used a lot of the cheap degreaser from the dollar store and cleaned mine really good, that helped identify the source of any leaks cause mine had 12 years of grime on it when I bought it and it took a couple of years of working on it to break thru all that to get to a clean surface.

Good Job, glad you are doing well with it. Do not under estimate what you can do when you apply yourself.
Hell I am sixty years old and half crazy and floating right above the national poverty level and I manage to keep mine going with a little luck and lots of determination.


When did you make the move from NYC to San Juan?

 

There's a lot there Danny. Took me 2 days to get thru it and an edit to reply.

I followed this thread. End All answer to stupid oil questions. Sava got excited by it so I thought it was a good thing. The filter and oil were at PepBoys. Maybe on the expensive side but I noticed that they have a 5 gallon container also which would cut costs nicely. I'll do the D2 soon so I'll probably get that one. I may also do a little comparison shopping with Wallmart and AutoZone.

If it's easy, point me towards the wheel bearing thread you used. I read so much it's mush in my mind now.

I'm degreasing as well going from top to bottom. Curing oil leaks, power steering and then transmission and differential, maybe in that order. Nice to know there is a third differential....who knew? Not me. Gotta look into that.

You're expanding my "future to be done list." Cross one off....add three more. But you gave me a heads up on a few points...and as Tosh says....."For that we thank you." There's a shameless psycho. Full crazy. Not half like you.

I bet you're feeling pretty rich when you have the grandchildren around, rollin' in the Rover and roasting up some wild boar (our Lechon - roast pig - is unbelievably delicous.) PR was a quality of life decision (9 yrs?). I was much richer and kultured before but I'm happier now. Let me know when you're coming down. I got ya covered.

 

Cool. I just got thru with my test drive after using the new Spray Seafoam Aersol version. Just make sure you get the little red tube and holder piece with your can. I had to go back to AA to get mine.

With this version, you take the air intake tube off, slide the red application tube in so that it sits right in front of the throttle plate (1/4 inch they say on the can), put the little clip on at 12 o'clock and reconnect the tube.

You fire it up, hold the rpm (they say 1000 above idle) but I did 2000 just so it wouldn't bog down. I had the new neighbor working the gas pedal and watching the tach (it worked this time) while I did the spray. Two to three minutes half a can they say. So it is a bit of guesswork.

The first minute or so it ran clear exhaust, some smoke but not a lot for the next minute or so. Then they say return to idle and shut it off for 5 minutds then test drive. I did this, got some smoke when reved in N, still not as much as I expected.

I took a back road so I could vary RPM's and speed and it only blew out a small amount compared to what I was sort of expecting. I did hold it in first then secnd gear and let it wind to 3500 to 4000 in each gear. A little smoke but not nuch, plenty of power.

I got a new set of NGK plugs I want to throw in and try them out. And I am curious to see what the current ones look like after the Seafoam treatment.

Got about half a can left. They say use half a can, wish they would just go ahead and put it in two containers. Anyway, I was hesitant to do the older way of Seafoam thru the recirculating vacumn tube, but the spray aerosol with the tube was easy. So I decided to go ahead and try it. Now I'll see what those Champions plugs look like.

Slang, since you are doing the same basic type of things to yours that I am doing to mine , I jumped on here instead of the P1316 code thread. I'll let you know how it goes.