Tach works and no codes
#11
11-17-2011, 04:20 PM
Baja
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
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LucasRed Synthetic Tractor Grease in a tube made for a grease gun.
I tried the Dielectric grease, bought the big squeeze tube since it was a lot bigger and only two bucks more than the minature tube.
My tach still was dead this morning when first started, came to life a few minutes later.
Maybe Eric's alternator will reveal more.
I tried the Dielectric grease, bought the big squeeze tube since it was a lot bigger and only two bucks more than the minature tube.
My tach still was dead this morning when first started, came to life a few minutes later.
Maybe Eric's alternator will reveal more.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 11-18-2011 at 11:41 AM.
#12
11-17-2011, 07:53 PM
I just dont see the point in spending a whole paycheck to change the oil on my truck, or any car for that matter.
From personal experience as long as you change your oil regularly it does not matter how much you spend on oil or filters.
My old work van, a 2003 E-250 with the 5.4L Triton, 350,000 miles with diesel oil and quick lube oil filters and still going.
My 2007 Sprinter TD5, only Mobil 1 from brand new until the engine blew up at 162,000 miles.
I just dont see the point of spending tons of money on motor oil.
Each to their own, fill your truck with gold, set it on fire and roll it onto a frozen lake, I dont care as long as you tell me what lake it is.
From personal experience as long as you change your oil regularly it does not matter how much you spend on oil or filters.
My old work van, a 2003 E-250 with the 5.4L Triton, 350,000 miles with diesel oil and quick lube oil filters and still going.
My 2007 Sprinter TD5, only Mobil 1 from brand new until the engine blew up at 162,000 miles.
I just dont see the point of spending tons of money on motor oil.
Each to their own, fill your truck with gold, set it on fire and roll it onto a frozen lake, I dont care as long as you tell me what lake it is.
#13
11-17-2011, 08:00 PM
Super Moderator
IMHO the extended drain interval of syn allows the owners to become green-eyed back sliders on everything else that should be done. Syn has its virtues, but you will find plenty of million mile Volvos and Mercedes diesels that never saw a drop of anything other than dino juice. No matter how "good" the oil is, it still gets dirty and needs to be changed along with filter to remove that floating "sand paper". There are probably owners on this forum that have always used syn, but do they have 400K miles?
#14
11-17-2011, 09:39 PM
Danny, I have to say I also cleaned my contacts at the ECU under the hood, funny thing happened after that, my tack worked for a bit on a test drive then i crapped out. I got back to garage and pulled tach wire cleaned contact point with small points file and then used dielectric grease. VIOLA we have a working tach. The metal used for electrical contacts on these vehicles are crap. I have never seen a contact oxidize so fast after being cleaned. It seems all the metal on these cars corrode then rust. This is why I will be using lots of wd-40 under hood and on the running gear.
Spike, you make a very good point. I agree in general with you.
What I think most people overlook is Oil Temp. I have seen oil temps drop drastically using syn oils I have also seen cyl head temps drop drastically using syn oils. Just like people cant see buying a 4x4 when 90% of your driving is city driving etc. It makes a person feel good to do it so let them. Why do I need class III title II weapons. because its fun and I like it. DO I need it? No. Makes me feel good, im happy.
One thing that I know syn oil does is help the imperfectly built motor stay alive. Super tight clearances produce hot spots and will spike oil temps causing dino oil to break down and syn oil to live. Crappy valve trains with valve over head engines are so imperfect its scarry. Lots of heat is produced on a cyl head let alone the crappy valve train.
One thing that I have not seen is how well dino oil vs syn oil transfers heat. any of you guys ever seen research like that? if you do let me know. My bet is the tighter molecule syn oil transfer heat better and cools better. dunno just an assumption.
green-eyed back sliders LOL thats funny
LucasRed Synthetic Tractor Grease in a tube made for a grase gun.
I tried the Dielectric grease, bought the big squeeze tube since it was a lot bigger and only two bucks more than the minature tube.
My tach still was dead this morning when first started, came to life a few minutes later.
Maybe Eric's alternator will reveal more.
I tried the Dielectric grease, bought the big squeeze tube since it was a lot bigger and only two bucks more than the minature tube.
My tach still was dead this morning when first started, came to life a few minutes later.
Maybe Eric's alternator will reveal more.
What I think most people overlook is Oil Temp. I have seen oil temps drop drastically using syn oils I have also seen cyl head temps drop drastically using syn oils. Just like people cant see buying a 4x4 when 90% of your driving is city driving etc. It makes a person feel good to do it so let them. Why do I need class III title II weapons. because its fun and I like it. DO I need it? No. Makes me feel good, im happy.
One thing that I know syn oil does is help the imperfectly built motor stay alive. Super tight clearances produce hot spots and will spike oil temps causing dino oil to break down and syn oil to live. Crappy valve trains with valve over head engines are so imperfect its scarry. Lots of heat is produced on a cyl head let alone the crappy valve train.
One thing that I have not seen is how well dino oil vs syn oil transfers heat. any of you guys ever seen research like that? if you do let me know. My bet is the tighter molecule syn oil transfer heat better and cools better. dunno just an assumption.
I just dont see the point in spending a whole paycheck to change the oil on my truck, or any car for that matter.
From personal experience as long as you change your oil regularly it does not matter how much you spend on oil or filters.
My old work van, a 2003 E-250 with the 5.4L Triton, 350,000 miles with diesel oil and quick lube oil filters and still going.
My 2007 Sprinter TD5, only Mobil 1 from brand new until the engine blew up at 162,000 miles.
I just dont see the point of spending tons of money on motor oil.
Each to their own, fill your truck with gold, set it on fire and roll it onto a frozen lake, I dont care as long as you tell me what lake it is.
From personal experience as long as you change your oil regularly it does not matter how much you spend on oil or filters.
My old work van, a 2003 E-250 with the 5.4L Triton, 350,000 miles with diesel oil and quick lube oil filters and still going.
My 2007 Sprinter TD5, only Mobil 1 from brand new until the engine blew up at 162,000 miles.
I just dont see the point of spending tons of money on motor oil.
Each to their own, fill your truck with gold, set it on fire and roll it onto a frozen lake, I dont care as long as you tell me what lake it is.
IMHO the extended drain interval of syn allows the owners to become green-eyed back sliders on everything else that should be done. Syn has its virtues, but you will find plenty of million mile Volvos and Mercedes diesels that never saw a drop of anything other than dino juice. No matter how "good" the oil is, it still gets dirty and needs to be changed along with filter to remove that floating "sand paper". There are probably owners on this forum that have always used syn, but do they have 400K miles?
#15
11-17-2011, 09:54 PM
Using the wrong oil in these engines will sludge them up, so the RP is a good choice.
I'm not saying dont use it, and I am not saying dino juice is better.
I have no idea what the heat dissipation between the 2 oils is, I'm sure if you went over to - Bob is the Oil Guy you could find out with enough research or if you joined and asked.
But remember that you have a engine oil cooler and running to cold is bad too.
That is a problem with boat engines, they run cold and using the wrong oil will kill the engine pretty quick.
I'm not saying dont use it, and I am not saying dino juice is better.
I have no idea what the heat dissipation between the 2 oils is, I'm sure if you went over to - Bob is the Oil Guy you could find out with enough research or if you joined and asked.
But remember that you have a engine oil cooler and running to cold is bad too.
That is a problem with boat engines, they run cold and using the wrong oil will kill the engine pretty quick.
#16
11-17-2011, 09:58 PM
Using the wrong oil in these engines will sludge them up, so the RP is a good choice.
I'm not saying dont use it, and I am not saying dino juice is better.
I have no idea what the heat dissipation between the 2 oils is, I'm sure if you went over to - Bob is the Oil Guy you could find out with enough research or if you joined and asked.
But remember that you have a engine oil cooler and running to cold is bad too.
That is a problem with boat engines, they run cold and using the wrong oil will kill the engine pretty quick.
I'm not saying dont use it, and I am not saying dino juice is better.
I have no idea what the heat dissipation between the 2 oils is, I'm sure if you went over to - Bob is the Oil Guy you could find out with enough research or if you joined and asked.
But remember that you have a engine oil cooler and running to cold is bad too.
That is a problem with boat engines, they run cold and using the wrong oil will kill the engine pretty quick.
I was just over there looking for that. We have engine oil coolers? Cool! where? LOL. I am sooooo freaking lost about what options are on these cars.
#17
11-17-2011, 10:05 PM
Super Moderator
See rad pix, oil cooler is the battery side, tranny cooler is the driver side. Extra tranny cooler (towel rack) in front of rad as well. Had an oil cooler 95% restricted on a salvage radiator, oil light would not go out. Of course, being the village idiot I was under the hood checking for coolant leaks from the new rad - while oil light stayed on, and on, and on...
#18
11-17-2011, 10:18 PM
See rad pix, oil cooler is the battery side, tranny cooler is the driver side. Extra tranny cooler (towel rack) in front of rad as well. Had an oil cooler 95% restricted on a salvage radiator, oil light would not go out. Of course, being the village idiot I was under the hood checking for coolant leaks from the new rad - while oil light stayed on, and on, and on...
no wonder why these rads are so huge for such a small engine.
Last edited by Discolife; 11-17-2011 at 10:22 PM.
#19
11-17-2011, 10:46 PM
Super Moderator
Built for bouncing in Borneo, not bleach burnouts at Riverside... There are a lot of places hotter than the general US, one is a desert in Iran that hits 159 F. The plus of the D1 and older Rangie radiators is that they can be unsoldered and rodded out for like $75, plus a hot acid flush. New ones are pretty steep. Have not seen other cross overs mentioned as drop in replacements.
#20
11-17-2011, 10:53 PM
Pro Wrench
