Terrafirma build.......Part 2......Front....
#11
04-19-2012, 10:54 AM
Recovery Vehicle
I forgot to mention that UPS lost my TF steering damper. Justin is sending another one down...Man, it is taking a long time to get those wheels thou....
This is the MED kit (for now) and yes, everything is TF except for the bushings (Polybush).
Just looked at my spreadsheet and consolidated just the parts from Lucky8, but will give you an aprox.... $2k.
Jake, yeah...I didn't tighten any of them until there was load on the suspension. It is all button up now. The alignment is completely off now, you can feel the tires fighting each other, but at lease it is almost straight. I tried to measure out the original track rods, guess I was off a few mm's.
This is the MED kit (for now) and yes, everything is TF except for the bushings (Polybush).
Just looked at my spreadsheet and consolidated just the parts from Lucky8, but will give you an aprox.... $2k.
Jake, yeah...I didn't tighten any of them until there was load on the suspension. It is all button up now. The alignment is completely off now, you can feel the tires fighting each other, but at lease it is almost straight. I tried to measure out the original track rods, guess I was off a few mm's.
Try measuring from the inside of each tire and adjusting from there. if it's off a couple MM you shouldnt be able to notice it may just not go straight. I can usually get it close enough to where I cant tell just by measuring and adjusting.
#12
04-19-2012, 11:14 AM
#13
04-19-2012, 12:05 PM
#14
04-19-2012, 12:09 PM
Last edited by Chris-bob; 04-19-2012 at 12:12 PM.
#15
04-19-2012, 02:05 PM
I do have rust on the bottom of one alpine window......
#16
04-19-2012, 02:18 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#17
04-19-2012, 04:15 PM
Winching
#18
04-19-2012, 04:18 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#19
04-19-2012, 04:31 PM
Winching
Yes, bringing the pinion down and increasing the angle between the pinion and the driveshaft, right? I was under the impression that if you ran caster corrected arms with the stock driveshaft it would put too much stress on the u-joints.
#20
04-19-2012, 04:42 PM
Recovery Vehicle
No actually then it would be working at correct pinion angle.. The drive shaft slope is still going to be minimal...
If the diff points at the T-case as with non correct arms and a ~3"+ lift - you will need a CV shaft because the t-case and diff work at differnt angles.. Otherwise you will get vibes and likely become very good at replacing Ujoints
This is what a stock D1 shaft looks like. When you add a lift it increases pinion angle and caster angle. So you either get correct arms which will turn rotate the axle back where it should be or switch drive shaft style. The advantage of the arms is it correct caster too. The advantage of a CV is a higher pinion and keeps it out of the rocks when off roading..
It's actually the opposite of what most people think. Even conventional shafts can work on a pretty decent angle. So with a 2" lift and caster corrected arms you will be practically back to stock.
Drive shaft length only becomes a concern when you start lengthening the arms. I have a CV front shaft and the center link on my 3 link is adjustable. I decided to keep the conv style shaft in the rear and went for the lengthened rovertym arms that let you turn the pinion angle down since the A-arm doesnt move..
makes sense?
Here's some good reading material
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html
Last edited by Jake1996D1; 04-19-2012 at 04:46 PM.