Yes, I understood all the geometry before I posted. I just thought the absolute angle was too much for the front u-joint with the caster corrected arms. What do you think of the caster corrected bushings (offset bushings) as an alternate solution?

 

Many, many people have compained about them not lasting.

Two solutions..
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...category_id=24

OR

Caster corrected swivels and a CV front shaft - I'd pick this option for trucks who play in the rocks.. I have my pinion turned up on my 3-link and no caster correction and it's fine even with bigger tires.

 

Dude..that is crazy!

 

Yeah I love that 3-link too, pretty slick. Jake, I am surprised you don't have heim joints on your links, what's keeping it from binding up when you flex?

 

That is nice...!!!

 

Not sure if you're familiar with the 3link by this piece is completely bolt on and came with everything. I have changed the center link out to a heavier duty 2.5" dom link with a poly ballistic fab joint. I may rework the other links and add an orbital in place of the poly if I go with 12" or 14" shocks up front. I want to do external shock mounts in the front so I cam run air bump stops and lower cones or x-springs up front... Coilovers still calling my name though

Surprisingly enough it doesnt bind link you would think it does. I get full travel out of both shocks and there's no unloading feeling like with radius arms. It literally feels like the truck is crawling thru rocks or bumps inthe road it's awesome..

Here's a pic of the new ceneter link.. Beefed up because it all of the tension from stopping.

 

Yeah I was mostly referring to the bushings at the end of the links as being a point where it would bind. Looks like the old center link had a swivel point in it though, to the two side links have that same arrangement? Or is all of the flex in the bushings?

Either way, it looks like an elegant solution and something I might do someday if I need more travel than I can get out of radius arms. Then again I'd probably build the thing from scratch rather then shell out for a kit. If you don't mind me asking, what brand is that, and where did you buy it? Is the kit still available?

 

It bolts to the radius arms holes and the bushings you see. The old link did have a different joint n the middle, I may switch to an orbital ballistic fab joint.

It's not about travel of radius arms it's about the binding that occurs only letting the axle work at a small angle. The 3-link lets each side work basiclly independantly and that was the main thing that sold me. My truck stays level even in some pretty crazy stuff.

This kit was made by safari gard which is no longer available. I bought it from Deny at HLC -fab and word is he maybe making a better solution. I paid $675 shipped which for what it is and compared to how much radius arms cost is worth every penny.

I like it has a track rod guard built in. The only bad part is if I need to remove my front diff I have to take pretty much the whole thing off. It seemed like none of the holes were spot on as far as aligning whch sucked but I made it work.

The only part you would really need is the heavy duty cross member. Then you could build a center link mount that goes aroud the track rod and then for outers fab something up that attaches to radius arm holes on axle side and cut the old radius arm horns off and weld some mounts for links.. I was happy to save time on mine since the price with all the links and joints still wouldnt have been cheap cause steel is expensive.

 

You got that right about steel. I spent $300 on steel last semester between my bumper and toolbox, and only have about a third of that left.

EDIT: If you ever want to get rid of that 3-link, shoot me a PM!

 

Accidentally killed the battery by leaving the keys in the ignition overnight...