Thinking of Getting another Disco
#21
05-14-2017, 08:36 PM
" Just noticed that the coolant reservoir on my D1 is leaking at the seem a little. Something I need to replace or is this a job for RTV? It's the black one not the clear one BTW (I understand that both types were used in the D1).
Thanks "
Replace the coolant res!!!!!! RTV will not work at all.
Use some RTV (like Permatex Black Adhesive RTV) on the cracked window seals. Check the Alpine window seals too. That truck looks way too nice to let any water in.
I definitely will get to those window seals soon.
#22
05-14-2017, 10:31 PM
Thanks the feedback on your 04. Those are all pretty noted weaknesses I guess, but I haven't read a whole lot about the CDL going in/out. Is that ECM related? Rear ends on these Disco's even D1's are usually fine for street and general off-road use ....but a lot of serious off-roaders complain they're weak. Low spline count. Aftermarket solutions are avail. That's not just Land Rovers, Jeeps Dana 35's are really weak too. The rear end seized up on my ZJ (on the highway)! I know my XJ probably should be stripped down for new bearings one of these days.
If you have a bone yard nearby, you might get all the stuff you need in one trip: coolant tank, flaps, other parts on your list. Window gaskets cracking is really common too. I was going to put that in my original list of D1 weaknesses, but if I put down everything I could think of, they'd kick me off the forum!! The best fix is to replace them, but in your dry-ish environment out there, you should be able to seal it up effectively with either RTV or windshield sealer. I used RTV on mine several years ago and so far they seem to be ok.
If you have a bone yard nearby, you might get all the stuff you need in one trip: coolant tank, flaps, other parts on your list. Window gaskets cracking is really common too. I was going to put that in my original list of D1 weaknesses, but if I put down everything I could think of, they'd kick me off the forum!! The best fix is to replace them, but in your dry-ish environment out there, you should be able to seal it up effectively with either RTV or windshield sealer. I used RTV on mine several years ago and so far they seem to be ok.
Last edited by Mark G; 05-14-2017 at 10:34 PM.
#23
05-14-2017, 10:47 PM
Thanks the feedback on your 04. Those are all pretty noted weaknesses I guess, but I haven't read a whole lot about the CDL going in/out. Is that ECM related? Rear ends on these Disco's even D1's are usually fine for street and general off-road use ....but a lot of serious off-roaders complain they're weak. Low spline count. Aftermarket solutions are avail. That's not just Land Rovers, Jeeps Dana 35's are really weak too. The rear end setup on my ZJ (on the highway)! I know my XJ probably should be stripped down for new bearings one of these days.
If you have a bone yard nearby, you might get all the stuff you need in one trip: coolant tank, flaps, other parts on your list. Window gaskets cracking is really common too. I was going to put that in my original list of D1 weaknesses, but if I put down everything I could think of, they'd kick me off the forum!! The best fix is to replace them, but in your dry-ish environment out there, you should be able to seal it up effectively with either RTV or windshield sealer. I used RTV on mine several years ago and so far they seem to be ok.
If you have a bone yard nearby, you might get all the stuff you need in one trip: coolant tank, flaps, other parts on your list. Window gaskets cracking is really common too. I was going to put that in my original list of D1 weaknesses, but if I put down everything I could think of, they'd kick me off the forum!! The best fix is to replace them, but in your dry-ish environment out there, you should be able to seal it up effectively with either RTV or windshield sealer. I used RTV on mine several years ago and so far they seem to be ok.
The window seals on my D1 aren't really a main concern to me right now because we won't get rain until late October. I think RTV should do the trick on that.
Planning on changing the transmission fluid and filter later this week. Got a filter and gasket kit from Lucky8 but I'm having a tough time deciding on a fluid. Is Castrol Transmax Dex/Merc compatible?
Thanks again
#24
05-15-2017, 10:24 AM
Not sure about Castrol Dextron fluid. I stick to Penzoil. Here's why. On my Chev K1500, which has over 200k miles on it, I changed tranny fluid using NAPA (Valvoline) transmission fluid, which I'd been using for years. A week or two afterwards the tranny started acting up, mostly dropping in/out of overdrive and dramatic transmission shudder developed, which would jerk the vehicle wildly. It was very disheartening. Dang, I thought, I might be headed into a rebuild, which I just didn't have time for.
I did some reading online. Transmission shudder is quite common on some vehicles, especially certain Mopars where you need to put in an ATF additive (if you've owned Mopar's you know what I mean), and on transmissions where the wrong type of atf is used. But in the process I came across some interesting posts where they indicated that Penzoil includes a little higher level of additives supposedly for higher mileage vehicles in their ATF, and according to these guys, changing the ATF to Penzoil cleared up their shudder problems. I thought it sounded too good to be true, but in light of a $1,200 rebuild and considering it DID begin after the ATF change, I figured I'd give it a try. I did and in about 50 miles all the problems completely went away. All that was 8 years ago if not longer and it's still going strong, no problems at all. Plus, I can get Penzoil ATF fairly cheap at our local farm & barn store. Walmart has it too.
Soooo, I know the above issues isn't a scientific test, but if it were mine, I'd personally use Penzoil ATF just based on my previous experience. I assume they still make it. That's what I've been using ever since for tranny's ...unless it's Mopar, then I buy it right from Chrysler because they use synthetic ATF which is more $$. It's actually like a buck a Qt cheaper to buy it from my local dealer (from the parts dept) than the cheapest place I could find on the internet. Get this: when I went down there to pick it up, they pumped it (from their barrel) into some washed out gallon milk jugs!!
They were clean and it worked. But maybe Castrol has a similar level of anti-shudder too, IDK. They make a decent product, it's worth looking into, or try it and if it works fine, no problems..
Oh, BTW, yeah, Dextron/Mercron were the same. Just get Destron III or whatever number they're up to now (that's compatible with Dextron II/III)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-...sem#about-item
I did some reading online. Transmission shudder is quite common on some vehicles, especially certain Mopars where you need to put in an ATF additive (if you've owned Mopar's you know what I mean), and on transmissions where the wrong type of atf is used. But in the process I came across some interesting posts where they indicated that Penzoil includes a little higher level of additives supposedly for higher mileage vehicles in their ATF, and according to these guys, changing the ATF to Penzoil cleared up their shudder problems. I thought it sounded too good to be true, but in light of a $1,200 rebuild and considering it DID begin after the ATF change, I figured I'd give it a try. I did and in about 50 miles all the problems completely went away. All that was 8 years ago if not longer and it's still going strong, no problems at all. Plus, I can get Penzoil ATF fairly cheap at our local farm & barn store. Walmart has it too.
Soooo, I know the above issues isn't a scientific test, but if it were mine, I'd personally use Penzoil ATF just based on my previous experience. I assume they still make it. That's what I've been using ever since for tranny's ...unless it's Mopar, then I buy it right from Chrysler because they use synthetic ATF which is more $$. It's actually like a buck a Qt cheaper to buy it from my local dealer (from the parts dept) than the cheapest place I could find on the internet. Get this: when I went down there to pick it up, they pumped it (from their barrel) into some washed out gallon milk jugs!!
They were clean and it worked. But maybe Castrol has a similar level of anti-shudder too, IDK. They make a decent product, it's worth looking into, or try it and if it works fine, no problems..Oh, BTW, yeah, Dextron/Mercron were the same. Just get Destron III or whatever number they're up to now (that's compatible with Dextron II/III)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-...sem#about-item
Last edited by Mark G; 05-15-2017 at 11:07 AM.
#25
05-15-2017, 12:32 PM
Not sure about Castrol Dextron fluid. I stick to Penzoil. Here's why. On my Chev K1500, which has over 200k miles on it, I changed tranny fluid using NAPA (Valvoline) transmission fluid, which I'd been using for years. A week or two afterwards the tranny started acting up, mostly dropping in/out of overdrive and dramatic transmission shudder developed, which would jerk the vehicle wildly. It was very disheartening. Dang, I thought, I might be headed into a rebuild, which I just didn't have time for.
I did some reading online. Transmission shudder is quite common on some vehicles, especially certain Mopars where you need to put in an ATF additive (if you've owned Mopar's you know what I mean), and on transmissions where the wrong type of atf is used. But in the process I came across some interesting posts where they indicated that Penzoil includes a little higher level of additives supposedly for higher mileage vehicles in their ATF, and according to these guys, changing the ATF to Penzoil cleared up their shudder problems. I thought it sounded too good to be true, but in light of a $1,200 rebuild and considering it DID begin after the ATF change, I figured I'd give it a try. I did and in about 50 miles all the problems completely went away. All that was 8 years ago if not longer and it's still going strong, no problems at all. Plus, I can get Penzoil ATF fairly cheap at our local farm & barn store. Walmart has it too.
Soooo, I know the above issues isn't a scientific test, but if it were mine, I'd personally use Penzoil ATF just based on my previous experience. I assume they still make it. That's what I've been using ever since for tranny's ...unless it's Mopar, then I buy it right from Chrysler because they use synthetic ATF which is more $$. It's actually like a buck a Qt cheaper to buy it from my local dealer (from the parts dept) than the cheapest place I could find on the internet. Get this: when I went down there to pick it up, they pumped it (from their barrel) into some washed out gallon milk jugs!! They were clean and it worked. But maybe Castrol has a similar level of anti-shudder too, IDK. They make a decent product, it's worth looking into, or try it and if it works fine, no problems..
Oh, BTW, yeah, Dextron/Mercron were the same. Just get Destron III or whatever number they're up to now (that's compatible with Dextron II/III)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-...sem#about-item
I did some reading online. Transmission shudder is quite common on some vehicles, especially certain Mopars where you need to put in an ATF additive (if you've owned Mopar's you know what I mean), and on transmissions where the wrong type of atf is used. But in the process I came across some interesting posts where they indicated that Penzoil includes a little higher level of additives supposedly for higher mileage vehicles in their ATF, and according to these guys, changing the ATF to Penzoil cleared up their shudder problems. I thought it sounded too good to be true, but in light of a $1,200 rebuild and considering it DID begin after the ATF change, I figured I'd give it a try. I did and in about 50 miles all the problems completely went away. All that was 8 years ago if not longer and it's still going strong, no problems at all. Plus, I can get Penzoil ATF fairly cheap at our local farm & barn store. Walmart has it too.
Soooo, I know the above issues isn't a scientific test, but if it were mine, I'd personally use Penzoil ATF just based on my previous experience. I assume they still make it. That's what I've been using ever since for tranny's ...unless it's Mopar, then I buy it right from Chrysler because they use synthetic ATF which is more $$. It's actually like a buck a Qt cheaper to buy it from my local dealer (from the parts dept) than the cheapest place I could find on the internet. Get this: when I went down there to pick it up, they pumped it (from their barrel) into some washed out gallon milk jugs!!
They were clean and it worked. But maybe Castrol has a similar level of anti-shudder too, IDK. They make a decent product, it's worth looking into, or try it and if it works fine, no problems..Oh, BTW, yeah, Dextron/Mercron were the same. Just get Destron III or whatever number they're up to now (that's compatible with Dextron II/III)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-...sem#about-item
Thanks for the insight. I have heard that some Chrysler stuff require specific fluids. Some of my previous toyotas also required toyota transmission fluid, wouldn't run well on anything else.
Personally, I like castrol. I used 10w-40 GTX on my D2 no issues. Planning to use Rotella T4 15W-40 with my D1. IIRC, I used the Castrol Transmax in my D2 as well but it was a while ago and I can't remember. Not sure how similar the D1 and D2 autos are but I'm willing to try the castrol. Has a dipstick unlike the D2 but the pan looks the same so I'm pretty sure that they're at least "related". Castrol Transmax is really inexpensive at $13 a gallon, so I might use it. I also used pennzoil dexron on some of my previous vehicles as well without any issues.
Anyway, fuel pump is coming in tomorrow so hopefully I can replace that easily. I'd like to get it changed before I get the emissions test done.
#26
05-15-2017, 06:43 PM
Castrol ATF I'm sure is fine, everyone's got their favorite stuff ...but do keep my little story in the back of your mind ...just in case. Hopefully you won't run into that.
Say, I thought of a couple other Disco 1 weaknesses: (man I could probably list them until I'm blue in the face!!).
The front windshields tend to leak. Usually around the gasket. When that happens the thick padding under the carpet ..and it's like 5/8" thick too, absorbs water better than any sponge I've ever seen. It won't dry out very quick. In not too long, it'll rot the floorboards. Can also be the sunroof drain hoses too, which you don't have. Also the rear floor area back by the tailgate hinge. Definitely be PROACTIVE on any floor leaks. On vehicles out east and if you ever read Land Rover magazines about British Discos, floor rot is extremely common. Less so out where you live, but something to be aware of.
The air conditioning drain often clogs up. Actually, insects love to build little nests in it. When that happens it spits condensate (water) out of the lower heater ducts all over the floor. It can also completely soak the matt under the carpet (same as the windshield leak above) before you know it. The very simple 10 minute fix is to remove the little rubber tip that attaches to the condensate drain tube that goes through the floor. Lay under the vehicle on your back and carefully pull off the rubber end, and blow it out, then replace.
Say, I thought of a couple other Disco 1 weaknesses: (man I could probably list them until I'm blue in the face!!).
The front windshields tend to leak. Usually around the gasket. When that happens the thick padding under the carpet ..and it's like 5/8" thick too, absorbs water better than any sponge I've ever seen. It won't dry out very quick. In not too long, it'll rot the floorboards. Can also be the sunroof drain hoses too, which you don't have. Also the rear floor area back by the tailgate hinge. Definitely be PROACTIVE on any floor leaks. On vehicles out east and if you ever read Land Rover magazines about British Discos, floor rot is extremely common. Less so out where you live, but something to be aware of.
The air conditioning drain often clogs up. Actually, insects love to build little nests in it. When that happens it spits condensate (water) out of the lower heater ducts all over the floor. It can also completely soak the matt under the carpet (same as the windshield leak above) before you know it. The very simple 10 minute fix is to remove the little rubber tip that attaches to the condensate drain tube that goes through the floor. Lay under the vehicle on your back and carefully pull off the rubber end, and blow it out, then replace.
#27
05-16-2017, 02:00 PM
Castrol ATF I'm sure is fine, everyone's got their favorite stuff ...but do keep my little story in the back of your mind ...just in case. Hopefully you won't run into that.
Say, I thought of a couple other Disco 1 weaknesses: (man I could probably list them until I'm blue in the face!!).
The front windshields tend to leak. Usually around the gasket. When that happens the thick padding under the carpet ..and it's like 5/8" thick too, absorbs water better than any sponge I've ever seen. It won't dry out very quick. In not too long, it'll rot the floorboards. Can also be the sunroof drain hoses too, which you don't have. Also the rear floor area back by the tailgate hinge. Definitely be PROACTIVE on any floor leaks. On vehicles out east and if you ever read Land Rover magazines about British Discos, floor rot is extremely common. Less so out where you live, but something to be aware of.
The air conditioning drain often clogs up. Actually, insects love to build little nests in it. When that happens it spits condensate (water) out of the lower heater ducts all over the floor. It can also completely soak the matt under the carpet (same as the windshield leak above) before you know it. The very simple 10 minute fix is to remove the little rubber tip that attaches to the condensate drain tube that goes through the floor. Lay under the vehicle on your back and carefully pull off the rubber end, and blow it out, then replace.
Say, I thought of a couple other Disco 1 weaknesses: (man I could probably list them until I'm blue in the face!!).
The front windshields tend to leak. Usually around the gasket. When that happens the thick padding under the carpet ..and it's like 5/8" thick too, absorbs water better than any sponge I've ever seen. It won't dry out very quick. In not too long, it'll rot the floorboards. Can also be the sunroof drain hoses too, which you don't have. Also the rear floor area back by the tailgate hinge. Definitely be PROACTIVE on any floor leaks. On vehicles out east and if you ever read Land Rover magazines about British Discos, floor rot is extremely common. Less so out where you live, but something to be aware of.
The air conditioning drain often clogs up. Actually, insects love to build little nests in it. When that happens it spits condensate (water) out of the lower heater ducts all over the floor. It can also completely soak the matt under the carpet (same as the windshield leak above) before you know it. The very simple 10 minute fix is to remove the little rubber tip that attaches to the condensate drain tube that goes through the floor. Lay under the vehicle on your back and carefully pull off the rubber end, and blow it out, then replace.
Already used A/C a lot and I don't have any issues (yet).
Does anybody know how to get the high idle down? It supposedly has a new maf sensor and iacv. I'm thinking that it might be the fuel pump because it is causing a lot of other issues (but maybe not the high idle). Maybe a vacuum leak? There is some electrical tape around the line that goes to the cruise control at the tee next to the brake booster. Cruise control works though. I will post a picture later today.
Thanks
#28
05-16-2017, 02:48 PM
That cruise Tee, or the hose that runs to it seems to dry rot and crack easily. It's an odd size hose too. I replaced the hose on mine and made a new tee out of steel.
Is it missing, or just high idle?
Behind the IAC it can get caboned up. The passages need to be open. I'd pull it and see what it looks like back there. Clean with carb cleaner if needed. The IAC controls the idle by moving in/out. On my Chev truck it works by 'counts'. It's not variable it's moves in a stepped fashion, and you can't get it to move easily with your fingers either -- don't force it. It's been a while since I pulled my L/R one out, so I don't remember what it looks like. Maybe first pull the IAC connector while it's running and see if it affects the idle. It's supposed to.
I just went through this whole thing with my Tk like a month and a half ago. The GM manual has a very thorough and comprehensive decision-tree on debugging emission related problems (actually about 50 pages of decision trees!!). I don't remember what it's supposed to do when you unplug it, I believe it should increase idle. But if there's no change then you suspect the IAC ..or signal to it. So, if it's anything similar it's worth a try. My Jeep is that way too. It should set a code to which you'll have to clear. For GM vehicles, maybe land rover too, ebay is by far the cheapest place to buy sensors especially if you aren't sure if one is truly bad or not. But I haven't had to buy any L/R sensors in a long time so I'm basing this on GM stuff that I just went through.
Other things to look at: PVC valve (that's the first thing to check on the tree), Your cruise Tee. In fact, if you have a propane tank, put a piece of hose on it and go around the top of the motor with the gas on and see if it smooths out anywhere or changes. Could be a vacuum leak somewhere. Or put a vac gauge on it. If it's not missing, probably not the MAF.
It's a common problem and there should be a bunch of posts if yo search out. Love to hear what it turns out to be.
Is it missing, or just high idle?
Behind the IAC it can get caboned up. The passages need to be open. I'd pull it and see what it looks like back there. Clean with carb cleaner if needed. The IAC controls the idle by moving in/out. On my Chev truck it works by 'counts'. It's not variable it's moves in a stepped fashion, and you can't get it to move easily with your fingers either -- don't force it. It's been a while since I pulled my L/R one out, so I don't remember what it looks like. Maybe first pull the IAC connector while it's running and see if it affects the idle. It's supposed to.
I just went through this whole thing with my Tk like a month and a half ago. The GM manual has a very thorough and comprehensive decision-tree on debugging emission related problems (actually about 50 pages of decision trees!!). I don't remember what it's supposed to do when you unplug it, I believe it should increase idle. But if there's no change then you suspect the IAC ..or signal to it. So, if it's anything similar it's worth a try. My Jeep is that way too. It should set a code to which you'll have to clear. For GM vehicles, maybe land rover too, ebay is by far the cheapest place to buy sensors especially if you aren't sure if one is truly bad or not. But I haven't had to buy any L/R sensors in a long time so I'm basing this on GM stuff that I just went through.
Other things to look at: PVC valve (that's the first thing to check on the tree), Your cruise Tee. In fact, if you have a propane tank, put a piece of hose on it and go around the top of the motor with the gas on and see if it smooths out anywhere or changes. Could be a vacuum leak somewhere. Or put a vac gauge on it. If it's not missing, probably not the MAF.
It's a common problem and there should be a bunch of posts if yo search out. Love to hear what it turns out to be.
Last edited by Mark G; 05-16-2017 at 02:54 PM.
#29
05-16-2017, 07:52 PM
That cruise Tee, or the hose that runs to it seems to dry rot and crack easily. It's an odd size hose too. I replaced the hose on mine and made a new tee out of steel.
Is it missing, or just high idle?
Behind the IAC it can get caboned up. The passages need to be open. I'd pull it and see what it looks like back there. Clean with carb cleaner if needed. The IAC controls the idle by moving in/out. On my Chev truck it works by 'counts'. It's not variable it's moves in a stepped fashion, and you can't get it to move easily with your fingers either -- don't force it. It's been a while since I pulled my L/R one out, so I don't remember what it looks like. Maybe first pull the IAC connector while it's running and see if it affects the idle. It's supposed to.
I just went through this whole thing with my Tk like a month and a half ago. The GM manual has a very thorough and comprehensive decision-tree on debugging emission related problems (actually about 50 pages of decision trees!!). I don't remember what it's supposed to do when you unplug it, I believe it should increase idle. But if there's no change then you suspect the IAC ..or signal to it. So, if it's anything similar it's worth a try. My Jeep is that way too. It should set a code to which you'll have to clear. For GM vehicles, maybe land rover too, ebay is by far the cheapest place to buy sensors especially if you aren't sure if one is truly bad or not. But I haven't had to buy any L/R sensors in a long time so I'm basing this on GM stuff that I just went through.
Other things to look at: PVC valve (that's the first thing to check on the tree), Your cruise Tee. In fact, if you have a propane tank, put a piece of hose on it and go around the top of the motor with the gas on and see if it smooths out anywhere or changes. Could be a vacuum leak somewhere. Or put a vac gauge on it. If it's not missing, probably not the MAF.
It's a common problem and there should be a bunch of posts if yo search out. Love to hear what it turns out to be.
Is it missing, or just high idle?
Behind the IAC it can get caboned up. The passages need to be open. I'd pull it and see what it looks like back there. Clean with carb cleaner if needed. The IAC controls the idle by moving in/out. On my Chev truck it works by 'counts'. It's not variable it's moves in a stepped fashion, and you can't get it to move easily with your fingers either -- don't force it. It's been a while since I pulled my L/R one out, so I don't remember what it looks like. Maybe first pull the IAC connector while it's running and see if it affects the idle. It's supposed to.
I just went through this whole thing with my Tk like a month and a half ago. The GM manual has a very thorough and comprehensive decision-tree on debugging emission related problems (actually about 50 pages of decision trees!!). I don't remember what it's supposed to do when you unplug it, I believe it should increase idle. But if there's no change then you suspect the IAC ..or signal to it. So, if it's anything similar it's worth a try. My Jeep is that way too. It should set a code to which you'll have to clear. For GM vehicles, maybe land rover too, ebay is by far the cheapest place to buy sensors especially if you aren't sure if one is truly bad or not. But I haven't had to buy any L/R sensors in a long time so I'm basing this on GM stuff that I just went through.
Other things to look at: PVC valve (that's the first thing to check on the tree), Your cruise Tee. In fact, if you have a propane tank, put a piece of hose on it and go around the top of the motor with the gas on and see if it smooths out anywhere or changes. Could be a vacuum leak somewhere. Or put a vac gauge on it. If it's not missing, probably not the MAF.
It's a common problem and there should be a bunch of posts if yo search out. Love to hear what it turns out to be.
Will report back soon
#30
05-16-2017, 09:02 PM
I don't think it's missing. On warm startup, it tries to idle around 750-850 then goes back up a few seconds later. So I am suspecting the IACV. I will take it out and see what's up with it and also unplug it when it's running to see if anything changes.
Will report back soon
Will report back soon
