I like my Rover even more now Sounds like no reason to bother with aftermarket rims. I'm guessing this is unique to the Rover and not found on other vehicles?

 

As far as I know this is unique to the early Rovers, the DII rims do not have them as far as I know but I could be wrong.
This is yet another reason the DI is superior to the DII.
But then what do you expect from a truck that was actually built to go offroad rather than the mall?

The only reason for aftermarket rims is for different offset and rim width.
Like already stated in this thread going with a 15" rim you can go with a ridiculously big tire, great for rock crawling.

 

Wolf Rims? So they are strong and fit our D1's? Do they look cool? hahahah

And do they have bead locks?

As I ask the questions I will search :P

 

Wolf.
Wolf XD Rims heavy duty wheels for Land Rover | Landroverweb.com

NATO
Wheel - 16 X 6.5" Steel Nato - Tubeless for Defender 110 | Land Rover wheels, tires, hubs, axles

 

I hate to point out the obvious, that the wolf and nato are the same part numbers..

 

The DI and the Defender and the Range Rover Classic are the same basic truck underneath, so yes, they use the same rims.
The only things that make rims different from one another is the bolt pattern and the offset.
So if the bolt pattern and offset were the same the rims from a Chevy or Ford or whatever would fit a Rover.
It is common to put Jeep Cherokee rims onto a Ford Ranger because they use the same bolt pattern and Ranger rims are hard to find but Jeep rims are everywhere.
The Defender is what the British MOD (Military of Defense) use, which as we learned earlier is a DI underneath.
So for the most part if it fits a Defender it fits a DI and vise versa.
The Defender has not changed much from inception until now.
So if you can find them Wolf rims will fit your DI and they will be the strongest rim you can get.
They are built for the military and those guys do not baby their trucks and the last thing they need to worry about is a bent rim while they are driving like hell running over anything and everything as they get shot at.

And just because I think it is cool.

spike555's Channel - YouTube

 

That's expensive.. maybe when I'm older and will actually use the HD Rims for some safari-ing..

 

Also, the bead lock on the rover wheels, is just a little bump in the wheel that helps keep the bead in place. The D2 wheels have it too, as do many other wheels.

Not nearly as effective as a true bead lock, like on the humvee.

 

My friend had a set of these on his classic when he traded it in. I could have kicked him in the teeth when i found out that he traded it in with all the goodies on it. Unfortunately i didnt have my disco yet so it was an afterthought.. cest la vie..

here's his classic before the rear diff exploded and the VC in the BW box started to go out.

 

man I hope I don't get tossed for this, being the FNG,

but if you really do your research on Beadlocks you will not find any of the names that I have seen here on this tread, to been known as the strongest Bead locks made on the market today. (not that anyone here claimed that ether)

But from a racing stand point they are average at best and to be honest I have not seen any of them on a racing circuit (that should tell you that they are not that good and would not stand up to the constant pounding in the rocks (as they do in the King of the Hammers race, for those of you that do not know what ultra 4 racing is, just look up King of the Hammers and you will see what I mean buy pounding)

There is no other class of racing that is harder on wheels. So, if you want a wheel that is going to preform to your expiation, look at what the racers use (not the ones that get free wheels, take those guys out of the equation.) Then look for the overwhelming majority of Ultra 4 racers buying their own wheels, those wheels will be the strongest beadlocks on the market. There are 2 companies that make their wheels not out of gravity feed mold. If you’re looking for the best and strongest bead locks you need to pick 1 of the 2.

I get this question of Steel vs Alum all the time. And I wish there was an easy way to explain it, But this is a subject that we can talk about for hours and depending on how you use your rover? Will depend on what is best for you.

If your Alum wheel is braking it’s a cheaply made wheel (Meaning it is a gravity fed mold)
Alum should bind and the only time it should crack is if you do not know how to work the alum back into place and then it cracks, but it’s because of the person not knowing how to work it back, not the wheel)

Alum is a little more than half the strength of steel. So to make it as strong as steel, you would have to use 80% more alum, to get the strength of the steel wheel. (Meaning as a steel wheel it would be 52lbs as a alum wheel it would be 44lbs.

But let me try to keep it simple.
Steel is cheaper and safer for a person that does not know how to work alum.
Steel is better if you are buying a cheaply made Alum wheel.

Alum beadlocks are better for your suspension (for every 1lbs you save, your rover suspension thinks its 10lbs lighter, so that’s 80lbs per wheel), better on MPG and look better then steel, bottom line your rover preforms better with an alum wheel.

Hope this helps in your decision on buying Steel vs Alum beadlocks