Throttle Body Cleaning
Did you read the tech section?
Run the drivers side front wheel onto a 2x4 or the curb.
When you clean the inside of the t-body all of the crud will run into the engine instead on onto it.
Just make sure you do not use the whole can inside the t-body.
Run the drivers side front wheel onto a 2x4 or the curb.
When you clean the inside of the t-body all of the crud will run into the engine instead on onto it.
Just make sure you do not use the whole can inside the t-body.
Danny, had I seen this right after you posted and Spike didn't beat me to it, I would have called you a noob.
On the other hand, it is easy to forget the basics on what's in the tech section and not. Happy Thanksgiving.
On the other hand, it is easy to forget the basics on what's in the tech section and not. Happy Thanksgiving.
not to rock the boat, but,...you are only about 6 bolts away from having the plenum on the bench where you can REALLY clean it, as well as the "trumpets" underneath it. Remove the bolts, un hook the tps / iac/ and vac line....not much time involved at all.
Any need of gaskets? I got to look into this and get prepared but it is supposed to be nice the next few days and I need to go ahead and get as much done on it before winter does set in.
I am going to go ahead and grab another set of new plugs, clean everything I can. Got the new set of NGK Wires in it. Someone had something on antother thread about adding the thermal overwrap heat protective sleeves on theirs and it improved how it ran. I want to get mine as smooth as possible.
Any other things that are right there that may need to look at or for?
Don't hold back. I will browse the Tech Section Again. I was looking for any additional ideas like XCELLER8 THREW IN.
Definitely ROCK THE BOAT.
Are there any bolts that are more accessable that I should ensure are tight based on several recent findings of other members who are invovled in head gasket and bottom end reworks.
If there are some things like that and they get taken care of now, might prevent larger problems later on is my rationale.
Don't hold back. I will browse the Tech Section Again. I was looking for any additional ideas like XCELLER8 THREW IN.
Definitely ROCK THE BOAT.
Are there any bolts that are more accessable that I should ensure are tight based on several recent findings of other members who are invovled in head gasket and bottom end reworks.
If there are some things like that and they get taken care of now, might prevent larger problems later on is my rationale.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; Nov 24, 2011 at 03:58 PM.
Well I am a Senior Citizen now and claim Senior Moments Priveledges.
Happy Thanksgiving to all of you Rover fanatics...
Somebody do an old man a favor and come over with some fine whiskey or a few wild women, well build a big fire.............
Not trying to second guess, but you want the crud to run into the engine?
I think he is saying let it run out the front instead of inside.
But a removal of the plenum and a more thorough benchtop cleaning sounds like it is more what like I should do since time and being somewhere is not a priority any longer.
I just want to get it as nice as is reasonably possible. And another thing comes to mind, are there any assessments I should do to it PRIOR to disturbing the "as found" current conditions?
It's not using or loosing any coolant or oil of any significance, hasn't since tightening the valve cover gaskets over a year ago. I got to go read the latest codes, it popped on the way home from the parts house.
Stumbles just a wee bit at first start-up then smooths out and runs like a bat out of hell.
The damn tach has been wacky again. I replaced the terminal with a brand new high quality crimp on lug. I can read an output of around 15 to 17 VAC with my GreenLee at the alternator post but not at the connector on the back of the instrument cluster or at the driver's side lower fuse panel. White/Grey whire. I guess it's flaky somewhere in the bundle under the hood or thru firewall. Hate these LOOMS.
Two great big unused connectors right behind the instrument cluster. I bet there is more than a mile of unused wire hidden in these damn things.
But a removal of the plenum and a more thorough benchtop cleaning sounds like it is more what like I should do since time and being somewhere is not a priority any longer.
I just want to get it as nice as is reasonably possible. And another thing comes to mind, are there any assessments I should do to it PRIOR to disturbing the "as found" current conditions?
It's not using or loosing any coolant or oil of any significance, hasn't since tightening the valve cover gaskets over a year ago. I got to go read the latest codes, it popped on the way home from the parts house.
Stumbles just a wee bit at first start-up then smooths out and runs like a bat out of hell.
The damn tach has been wacky again. I replaced the terminal with a brand new high quality crimp on lug. I can read an output of around 15 to 17 VAC with my GreenLee at the alternator post but not at the connector on the back of the instrument cluster or at the driver's side lower fuse panel. White/Grey whire. I guess it's flaky somewhere in the bundle under the hood or thru firewall. Hate these LOOMS.
Two great big unused connectors right behind the instrument cluster. I bet there is more than a mile of unused wire hidden in these damn things.
If you pull the plenum could you snap some before and after pics of your cleaning?
Good thinking by the way on removing it from the vehicle, you don't want that garbage running down into your engine. Never understood people "cleaning" those things while still attached to the engine.
Good thinking by the way on removing it from the vehicle, you don't want that garbage running down into your engine. Never understood people "cleaning" those things while still attached to the engine.


