I figure that the other thread I posted seemed to invite more than I had asked for, so I will start another. Serriously though, when I had my T-chain cover off and was inspecting the chain I noticed it had some slack in both directions. I turned the engine both clockwise and counterclockwise. The slack I noticed was of course on each end. The slack tightened on one side and stayed a bit loose on the other in reference to the direction I was moveing it. Has anyone installed a new chain or know exactly if this slack is normal or abnormal? I attempted to look for the timeing marks but was running out of time so I had to throw it all back together. On other vehicles in my past I never witnessed this much slack. So I wonder if the chain is stretched. Wish I had had the time to investigate it further. I would like to get this engine to last me until next July. Then it is scrap for sure unless someone near Oklahoma wants it for parts. Any intelligent thoughts pertaining to this question is greatly appreciated. All other opinions and comments, please post somewhere else. Thanks.

 

Yes if there is to must deflection in the chain it needs to be replaced.
I have heard, but have yet to confirm, that the timing set from a GM 3.8L V6 is a exact fir for half the price.
A Rover timing set you will need to order, the GM one you can buy local for like $30.

 

fwiw....last year when I put on a new chain and gears....they were banjo string tight....I got mine from Trevor at rovahfarm...and apparrently you can buy them "tight" or "loose"....

 

I have always thought this engine had timeing issues. It runs different every time I start it. I'll have to purchase a new chain and sprockets to really see the difference. I'm sure this will alleviate some discomfort my engine has. Thanks

 

Trevor's prices are great. I recommend him to my customers all the time when they need new parts and are on a budget.

Try a dual roller timing chain. Cloyes makes them for Rovers.

Replace the cam while you're there and you might turn that engine around.

If you want good, reliable information about Rover engines here in the US give the guys at D&D Fabricating up in MI a call. They'll set you straight. If you want info from the land these trucks came from give RPI in the UK a call. You'll get a lot better information from these guys than you will from most of the posters on this board.

Google is you friend.

 

While you have the engine in the current condition, what does your scanner show for ignition advance, and is that a stable number at various fixed rpms? Just wondering if that might be a diagnostic pointer for others before taking wrench to front cover (if the values wander around for no obvious reason).

 

Thank you very much. This was helpful to the OP, and myself.

 

Never used the scanner to check the timeing yet. However, currently my engine runs smooth when cold at around 1100 RPM's and when warmed up it wants to stall at every stop sign and light. I know this is nort right, so please do not add any nonsense to this equation. This is how my engine wants to run for me at the moment. I play a nice gas pedal feather trick with it everday. Really annoying. What's worst abpout this engine which I have not been able to find a cause of, is the MPG. I'll typically get 60 or so miles per 8 gallons. I don't bother filling up all the way anymore because this gas just runs right through this engine. I have tried almost everything except rebuild this thing to determine why the fuel economy is so bad. I wonder if the ECU is causing me trouble. Some folks on this forum say I do not listen to recommendations. That is easy for them to say when they are not the ones who go out every weekend to try and find the problem. I'm so sick of messing with this engine every weekend. I guess I'm lucky it runs at all. Yeah, Yeah I know what some people are going to say, I don't know what I'm doing right. Well, trust me when I say I have been in and around mechanics my entire life. I have certificates in diesel engine, hydraulics, pnuematics, electronics ETC ETC ETC... I was an engineer in the Marines and have worked on CSXT, Norfolk Southern and Amtrak diesels in my youth. But for some strange, crazy reason this engine is playing hard to get. It happens to the best of us on occasion, and I suppose it is finally my turn.

 

How much money do you have to throw at it? it might just be easier and less hassle to pull the motor, rebuild it completely, and put in all new sensors. then you'll know that it is good. then if you are still having problems you it is something else. if you know your bottom end is good just go with a cam and head job along with new sensors.

I was having a lean firing issue with mine and slowly replaced all the usual parts and it would get a little better each time. then i decided to do a cam and head job. as I was pulling it all a part I found that #6 and #8 exhaust manifold bolts were loose and the same with the intake manifold near those cylinders. as I dug deeper I found that the timing chain was so loose that I probably could have taken it off by hand. so, it was a bunch of things that were adding up to making my D1 not run right.

the one thing I have learned owning a D1 is that if you have 130,000 miles on the clock you are on borrowed time for major motor repair. the bright side is that everyone i have talked to that has done a major once over on their motors has learned to really enjoy their Discos again.....kinda like pulling a festering splinter out of your finger.

advntrjnky

 

Well, just like the infrared thermometer, a scanner can show what you can't see with the Mark 1 eyeball. With your expertise, having good data to work with can only help in making a more rapid diagnosis.