While performing my weekly under-the-hood check, I noticed a very small amount of coolant on the front cover where it mates to the engine. The leak appeared to be at the gasket. I cleaned it off and added a glob of Hylomar Blue and let it sit over night. Drove it to the store and back and all seems fine.

I'm pretty sure I'll need to replace the gasket soon enough, and since I'll have to take apart a bunch of stuff to get to it, is there anything else I should consider replacing?

The truck has 80k on it and the water pump is original as far as I know. Would this be a good time to replace it or is that potentially throwing money away?

I plan on checking the oil pump and timing chain while I'm in there.

Any reason these should be replaced at 80K?

Thanks!

 

Replace the gasket and be done, save your money on the other stuff.

 

Here pix of water pump - on the left at 175K, on the right 114K. The close up shows that the failed pump., which wobbled and leaked, ate aluminum. But the BP Utah and some others have a new aftermarket water pump that has a larger bronze impeller, and it will improve cooling, but you are certainly not in the hot part of the country. A good thing to do would be to perform a pressure test on the oil switch port, to guide you on how weak (if at all) the pump is. I just tested mine at got 42 PSI hot at 2500 rpm, and I have over double your miles.

You'll be getting a water pump gasket, so you can inspect it and the oil pump. On the other hand, depending on pump you purchase, you could do water pump and oil pump for under $200, and not go in the front cover again for a long time. If doing the water pump, also consider the $50 Chevy cross-ref fan clutch. And while you're at it, take radiator to indy rad shop for acid flush (and rod out) if it does not flow correctly.

Sound like a lot, but - the rad is more harmed by age and number of coolant changes and flushes, it does not know if it is standing still or going 90 mph. Water pump bearing can start to wobble at any time, and water pump and fan clutch have a blood oath to deliver a one-two series of punches, with the surviving one killing itself as soon as the funeral for the first is over. But could you get by with some locktite "green" (it wicks in) or a blob or RTV / Hylomar - sure, but keep Mark 1 eyeball on the coolant and the temp gauge.

 

I am in agreement with Buzz, you have low miles but lots of years on it, If I were doing it, which I will eventually be doing it, I would go ahead and do the visual on the water pump and see what it looks like. Be a shame to have to go in there too often if you can do a good visual and take care of water pump if needed.

Makes me wish I could get a good boroscope and run it down in there to take a look see.

 

Also be careful and spray lots of pb blaster on the bolts. Take special notice of the two long bolts at the 2-4 position. They like to become one with the block. Really consider a new pump and if so, obviously gasket and a new set of wp bolts, cheap insurance.

 

Hmm...yeah. I really don't want to be in there more than I have to. I did find a couple of videos on YouTube that make the job seem pretty simple as long as I invest in a fan clutch wrench!

The videos are for a P38, but I believe it is practically the same procedure.

Range Rover - How To Replace Water Pump P1 - YouTube

Range Rover - How To Replace Water Pump P2 - YouTube

And I thought I was finished with all the major maintenance items leading up to my trip on the WABDR - Washington Backcountry Discovery Route this summer!

I almost think this leak appeared because I had turned my attention this weekend to the Sprite project car. The Rover got jealous.

 

Replace the gaskets and be done.
Water pump can be done later, only take a hour.
Oil pump and timing chain...you've only got 80k on her and everyone is so scared of things breaking they replace parts before they need to and are afraid to drive their trucks past the mailbox.
It's got 80k on it, replace the gasket, or use some K-Seal, your choice, and just drive it.
If something else goes bad replace it when it does, why waste money on unnecessary parts and labor?
It's always easier to spend someone else's money.

 

I'm beginning to side with you, Spike. Also, I did some addition investigation today and I found 2 things that make wonder if there was a leak in the cover at all.

1. The top radiator hose connection to the engine has been leaking a tiny bit (didn't notice before), and that might explain why there was coolant on the front cover being that it is directly below the hose. Now, I already sealed what I thought was the leak with hylomar blue, so do I pull it apart and replace the gasket anyway?

I tightened up the top hose and it seems fine now, though it is original equipment as far as I know.

2. The shorty hose from the heater return to the manifold (the one I recently replaced) is weeping coolant from the hose fibers (between the layers of rubber). So either I damaged the hose when in installing it or it was just a POS hose. I think I ordered it from British Pacific.

I am ordering another hose ASAP (from Rovers North; AB doesn't have it) to replace it again.

In my more thorough check today, I also yanked on the pump/fan shaft to see if the bearings were even the slightest bit loose. It didn't budge, so they are likely fine.

So, at the least I need to replace the shorty hose as soon as I get the new one.

 

Alright. Taking Spike's advice (some of it anyway).

Ordered new shorty and top/bottom rad hoses and clamps. I bought genuine this time since my experience with the aftermarket shorty replaced only a few months ago has tainted me.

Should the front cover turn out to actually have a leak, I will replace the gasket then.

I love my Land Rover.

 

Here is what I would do, buy the hose kit from AB and replace all coolant hoses with new ones.
Replace your thermostat and gasket too.
Forget the timing cover right now.
My upper radiator hose leaks from the exact same spot, the upper hose cannot get a good seal on the t-stat housing and leaks sometimes, very little, but it will leave a puddle in the valley.
If you already had a bad coolant hose the others are not far behind and those are more of a risk than a small leak on the timing cover.
When a hose blows you loose all coolant in about 30 sec's.
A small leak that can be managed...let sleeping dogs lie.