The Plan:

Tow a 2011 Mustang GT Convertible from the east coast to SoCal.

The Problem(s):

1. Timing - This was supposed to be in May, but a couple days ago Uncle Sam said he changed his mind and now I have 3 weeks! Rather than mild Spring, this will be done in icy Winter.
2. Megatron(my Disco, formerly "Thor" before I was educated on the actual engine it has in it)
   1. Brakes - Should I put on new brakes and rotors or just swap the pads and pray? The brake feel is solid, but new pads can't hurt. The rotors are too thin to turn again, but are decently smooth.
   2. Binnacle/Instrument Gauge Cluster - The Speedo and Tach just went out for no apparent reason. I checked the connectors around it and all 5 billion of them seem good, so that may take a bit more work.
   3. Leaks - The rear sunroof won't close; the switch moves it back and forth, but it appears the rails won't let it tilt closed. Duct tape is a poor fix, but I don't have time to wait for parts to come in or possibly even to put in the parts if they did. Any great temp-fixes?
   4. Distance and Over-heating? - I didn't see any long distance towing stories when I searched, but anyone see a big problem or good prep ideas? Spike? You boasted of your trailering prowess...
3. Money - If I had my tax return, then I'd sell my dream off-roader at a loss and pick up one in CA. It just doesn't make a lot of sense, but it also means I need to prep it on the cheap and can't throw in a Cummins 4BT and Dana60 axles before the trip. Also, the gov pays you "in the rears"(how fitting of a term) so I already will be out $767 for the U-Haul trailer; just something to keep in mind for any suggestions.

Solutions?

Thanks in advance!

 

1. Please don't turn again. New rotors are cheaper and safer.

2. If tach went out, that can be a sign that alternator is not charging. Check battery to be sure you are getting 13.8 - 14.2 volts when running. F14 is common to both.

3. Sun roof will close, you have to use the mechanical over ride with an allen wrench. See attached.

4. Trailer (braked) should not exceed from owner's manual:

Trailers with brakes - high range ........................... 5500 lb (2495 kg)

5. Flush radiator and refill with fresh coolant before trip. Add water wetter. Change to 180F thermostat. Consider change to Chevy / GMC fan clutch and oversize fan (mine makes 6 - 10 F difference in 100 F + summer heat.) $20 at junk yard. 2001 Blazer. Consider water pump change (you are at the milage).

6. Use an ultra Gauge or a code scanner to watch temps in digital, rather than the stock temp guage.

7. Test oil PSI (manual guage) before trip.

8. If AC won't be used during trip, unplug compressor. Then if you need a slight cooling boost, you can turn on AC, that will bring on the electric fans.

Just a collection of ideas. Good luck. Carry RAVE on USB drive, and a laptop, and tools.

 

New question popped up...
Replace the Transmission Cooler?
TCI Auto/3/4 x 7 1/2 x 15 1/2 in. 300 PSI high strength aluminum performance transmission cooler (823500) | Transmission Cooler | AutoZone.com

 

8. Heat will still work. Alt could be the flying lead off the back, it take the frequency to the alternator o count. About 270 Hz at idle.

Tranny cooler - on my 97, there are two, one is a "towel bar" in front of the radiators (BTW, blow out all the leaves and trash between radiators - pull rubber strip to access), and the second is the built into copper radiator on driver side. The oil cooler is on the passenger side. See attached. I belieev the switch in item 5 is an over heat switch for warning light.

I've used water wetter on off road machinery with decent results, sort of a bandaid until we could change out worn out belts, etc.

Most junk yards have plenty of Chevys and GMC, the fan clutch is 6 inch diameter, reverse direction, and screws right up to our water pump. Will have to trim blades.

Water cooled computer - I supported an air cooled ES9000 (IBM) mainframe in the dark ages, so I always assumed they made a water cooled...

 

The tranny temp switch is described in the RAVE:



130

 

Realize that most of your journey will be on interstate so that means mostly flat and straight roads. All of which are designed for safety and relative effciency. In other words, you shouldn't need to do a lot of braking and crossing a lot of passes. The most braking you will do is hitting gas-stations every 150 miles!

A few random thoughts:

1. Carry a couple of spare tires and a reliable way to lift the vehicle and get the damn lug nuts off.
2. Talk to Timebus, she has cris-crossed the country with her Landy and with trailer in tow.
3. Sunroof should close if you can move it back and forth. I just did this with mine. After I put the motor from the front roof into the spot for the dead back one the roof would move but just barely. I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned some more the rails and everything I could access. Works pretty well now. The issue with not dropping closed has to do with the slotted ramp do-hicky on each side. I had to really work at getting those cleaned and lubed. Like I said works much better (not perfect) now.
4. If you sold your rig you could likely get something more appropriate for towing. You could also drive the Mustang and buy what you want when you get there.
5. AAA membership, towing and rental reimbursement with your insurance co.

I'm sure I will think of a few more but that's all for now. Good luck!

 

Here is what I will input on this, I pulled 10,000+lbs FEMA trailers from Indiana to Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama and used a Ford F-250, no trailer brake controller and a gas engine...you WILL be buying lots of gas so whatever you budget for fuel double it.
Keep your speed at 65mph tops, just drop it in drive and set the cruise, let the trans do it's thing, once in the mountains drop it into 3rd and use engine braking on the downhills, keep it in 3rd to climb the hills.
While climbing the mountains if the temp starts to climb turn off the a/c if you have it on and turn the heater on, putting it on defrost and rolling the windows dawn part way will keep you from dying of heat stroke.
Once the hill has been crested you can turn the heat back off.
You wont be doing much stopping, if you have at least 50% brake pad life left you are fine.
Change the trans fluid before you go.
If you are unsure of the fan clutch go to the tech section and do the Chevy conversion.
192*F is the OEM t-stat temp, to cold and it will lower your MPG.
Put your tires at 45psi the day you leave.
I dont know what oil you use but for this trip I would use Shell Rotella HD-40, change it the night before you leave.
I would also switch out the driveline fluids to a 85w-140, both diffs and t-case.
You are driving across the USA not central America, help is a phone call away.
Geico has a free app for your phone, even if you dont have Geico (I dont) and with that app you can find help by your location, and it will give you the phone number too.
So if you need a tow truck or a tire shop you can find one.
The more crap you carry the lower your MPG.
Plan your fuel stops, use a atlas to help pick them, larger cities will have lower fuel prices, GasBuddy also has a free app.
Your biggest concern is going to be fuel.
These trucks are tuned to run on the crappiest fuel in the world, so even if you buy a tank of crap old stale fuel she will still run, just not well. Injector cleaner will help freshen up stale fuel, buy a couple of bottles of Techron to bring with you, also bring a gallon of washer solvent, gas stations rape you on the price of those things.
So, in conclusion here is what your Uncle Spike would do to his truck...
brake inspection, 50% or more of pad life left then they are good to go, change the oil and filter the night before the trip using HD-40 straight weight motor oil, and then change it again a few days after the trip, change gear lubes to 85w-140, check air filter, put tires at 45psi (harder tires increase MPG and run cooler), use the cruise, download some free apps, fan clutch if needed, 2-4 bottles of Techron, 1 gal of washer solvent, roll of paper towel, 2 rolls of toilet paper, box of Kleenex, car charger for cell phone.
Plan the fuel stops and never let the tank get below 1/4, you will need wiggle room incase you cant get fuel for a exit or two. (hit 1/4 tank, next exit with fuel you fill up, add the Techron IF the truck starts to run like crap after that tank of fuel, add to the bad tank of fuel dont worry about adding it to the next tank)
You are renting a trailer, have the rental companies 1-800-number programmed into your phone, if you get a flat or have a problem with the trailer that it there problem not yours, you call the number.
Make sure the spare is in good shape and full of air.
Again, and I cannot stress this enough, HD-40 motor oil the night before you leave.
Your engine will thank you, and bring 4 extra quarts of oil and check it every other time you get gas and in the morning before you leave the hotel, again gas stations charge about $6 for a qt of no name motor oil.
It's a 3,000 mile trip, take your time, take your camera, enjoy the ride.

 

Well, I've put it up for sale.

I appreciate all the advice and help, but this one just wasn't meant to be.