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Tranny swap, anybody have tips from doing one?

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Old May 10, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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Rock Crawling
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Default Tranny swap, and related issues ............

See title


Did some searching, didnt see anything talking about actually doing a swap

Edit: Looking through the RAVE manual, just curious if there are any personal anecdotes or suggestions
 

Last edited by nuclearw; Aug 4, 2013 at 08:25 PM.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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Pulling your own from the United Partz Vulturez Boneyard? Boneyards around me get like $125. Some sell a six month warranty. Many will be having a half price sale on Memorial Day weekend. More Discos in boneyard for engine problems. Try real hard not to bend any of these tabs on the reluctor disk....
 
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Old May 10, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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Thanks Savannah, I got one from drillbit sittin in the garage, just waiting for me to get time/ambition to start on it..

I appreciate the warning bout those tabs, i'll keep an eye out for that and that is exactly what i'm looking for.. hidden gotcha's /painful lessons learned etc
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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K.... Lost my job, so searching for new one, but also get a little time to work on the beast.

So far its been a joy. .. ..........................

Trying to get the catalytic converter assembly out, the RAVE mentions removing a heat shield, think i see where that is (pass side by starter??) trying to figure out how to get that outa the way.

My only other option appears to be releasing the front sway bar from the frame and allowing it to drop down straight..

Any thoughts/tips?

Did get the crossmember out already, thanks to some help from the mechanic that changed the tranny filter before i got it heh...
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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You have to move around the resonator a bunch and wiggle that thing all over the place, but it'll eventually come out. Probably took me a solid 30 minutes of shaking it around. It'll come down eventually.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 01:33 AM
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Isn't something to do with heat shield and starter held by a bolt "hidden" in the engine mount bracket?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Isn't something to do with heat shield and starter held by a bolt "hidden" in the engine mount bracket?
Heh... never woulda thought to look there.... ill give it a go when i get out there later today frustrating they put the taller cat on the side with the longer pipe.............
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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Update:

Got the exhaust out .... ended up disconecting the front sway bar to prevent damage to the cooler lines that were precarious....


wasnt till after this I saw the note later in the RAVE about releasing tension from the suspension ....... I had the jackstands on the outer edges of the axels, and no jack tall enough to do the job in one shot so this was a royal pain .... but finally moved the stands to the frame. Not sure if it would have cleared if I did this prior, we will see.


Exhaust is out, i'm curious if this was a factory job, or someone modified it when they changed the muffler since the y-pipe hits the exhaust and didn't have the flange like in the diagram (piece is long, from manifold to the end of the first muffler before another flange...

Will post other tidbits/questions here as I continue.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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Update/ Question..

Got to the point where I need to drop the tranny and transfer case... Few issues i've been trying to figure out.

1. Do I need to loosen the engine mounts before removing / tipping the engine? I didn't see anything about this in the rave removal instructions.
2. I don't have the mounting plate described in the RAVE
3. I don't have any jacks hydraulic or otherwise that would raise high enough to be able to lift/hold this thing up...
 
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 09:42 PM
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You shouldn't need to do anything with the engine mounts.
A transmission jack and the adapter described in the manual make it a lot easier.

When reinstalling get 4 or 5 bolts to match the gearbox to flywheel housing bolts, only about 5" long and cut the heads off and tape the cut ends a bit. Screw these in to the flywheel housing to use as guide pins for mating the two units.
Be careful to not trap the O2 connectors in the bell housing.
 
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