Trans Filter
#13
12-30-2010, 09:48 AM
By LR's standard dexron 3/mercon is called for. But if you look up newer dexrons, alot of them are backwards compatibale with dex 3. Some are not, gotta be careful. But I may offer, when I did my filter, I filled with a newer dex and eneded up draining and going with old school dex 3. In mine, it like it better
#15
12-31-2010, 02:42 PM
Lucky for me ALL and I mean all the bolts and plugs are rusted in place. My D1 has 83k on it and I would guess the fluild may have been changed at some point but the pan never dropped. The cross member bolts are now soaking in PB Blaster as are the pan bolts and the drain plug. 2 hours of soaking and tapping with a hammer did nothing. A long overnite soak and maybe some heat tomorrow will do the trick.
#16
12-31-2010, 02:58 PM
Lucky for me ALL and I mean all the bolts and plugs are rusted in place. My D1 has 83k on it and I would guess the fluild may have been changed at some point but the pan never dropped. The cross member bolts are now soaking in PB Blaster as are the pan bolts and the drain plug. 2 hours of soaking and tapping with a hammer did nothing. A long overnite soak and maybe some heat tomorrow will do the trick.
thanks
#18
01-01-2011, 07:35 AM
#19
07-09-2011, 11:19 PM
Mudding
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#20
07-10-2011, 08:48 AM
You never go by the book capacities when doing this type of work, you just buy more fluid than you think you will need and the add only what YOU actually need and NOT what the book tells you you MAY need.
So after changing the trans filter you would add 4 qts, start the engine, shift through all the gears and check the fluid level.
Add more if needed.
Then once it was within the safe range drive it for a day and then check the fluid level again.
You are going to need to drain some of that fluid out.