All,

New to the D1 and to the forums, but have learned a lot already. Though I feel like a wrenching newb, because I'm up against something I just can't figure out.

I managed to get the cross member out, the y pipe out, the pan off, and everything. But what I can't do, I kid you not, is get the new filter on. I simply can't get the screw that bolts the pick up tube back onto the tranny to catch. I've checked and double checked everything--all three screws are the same length, the replacement filter is identical the old one, the screw works just fine if the tube isn't on. But with everything in place, it simply won't catch the threads and just spins.

Thoughts? I'm at my wits end (and a little pissed, because I still have to get the cross member back on and feel like I'm wasting time on something that literally should have been the easiest step of this whole process).

Is it worth seeing if I can find a replacement screw/bolt that is just a tad bit longer?

 

WOW you already did ALL the hard steps!! Most don't get past the cross member.

RE: the bolts> The bolt for the pickup tube should be longer than the other 2 ( see video @15:15 ). It would be rare, but did one break?


The LONGER BOLT: #RTC4279 is 83MM
The SHORTER BOLTS(2): #RTC4278 are 65MM

RE: the O rings> Check that the O ring @ the pick up tube is on and letting the tube seat flush. Same for the large O ring on the back... be sure the filter is flush all around ( see video @ 13:20 ). You'll get it sorted... Good Luck!

 

Ah--this is super helpful. Thanks for the info, and I'll update when I've figured it out.

 

Cool, you'll get it.


One more thought, if you have the all metal pickup tube (#RTC4655) there is a small metal sleeve/spacer (#RTC4656 ) between the tube and the filter. It makes up for the recess in the filter body & it's easy to lose. The Plastic pickup tube (TQW100030) has NO sleeve.

 

And now for the embarrassing update: One of my screws was, in fact, longer than the others, and I just simply missed it and installed it. Then, when I kept checking, I rather stupidly just kept checking the other two that weren't installed.

And, of course, managed to strip the 83 mm one while trying to back it out. They were all super-torqued when I removed the old filter, so they all got a little sloppy then, but not bad enough, I figured, to replace. But, now, I get to replace them. Hopefully I can find suitable replacements at the hardware store or the local dealer, because I really thought this would take me an hour and I'm now on day 2.

But at least I'm soon ready to put it all back together, and maybe one day I won't smell like transmission fluid! And hopefully my wife won't notice the puddle of fluid in the yard. Thanks for the help--I think I watched a different Atlantic British video with a D2--I had no idea about the y pipe and the cross member until I got into it. Not sure I would have tried it had I known! But this is par for the course--I tend to take the easiest step and make it the hardest and longest somehow!

 

also, final thought: neither the old filter nor the new one included an o ring for the pickup tube. Is that ok? (and it's plastic--no sleeve).

 

This only took 2 days, in ROVER Time that's about right!

Yes, you need the O ring (#RTC5818 ) or you lose suction without it. ATF will just leak past the pickup tube back to the pan. What Filter kit didn't come with the O ring.... that's total B$! And YES, fix the stripped threads/bolt. You have the pan off, just fix it right.

Last tip(s), before you put the pan back on lube the 6 pan brackets (4 corners, 2 straights) with anti-seize where the bolts go in. The cast aluminum gets very brittle and the brackets can crack. You can get replacements, but this is totally avoidable.

I would also replace the 2 Exhaust Gaskets(s) (#ETC4524) that goes between the manifold and y-pipe. Depending on what it looks like replace the Exhaust Olive (#CRC4579L) that goes between the y-pipe & center muffler. Plus get 6 new locknuts for the exhaust studs AND put some anti-seize on the exhaust studs!!!! Now that I've spent all your extra money That's all I got.... Good Luck!


>>> Do you have the larger O ring? If not you need that too (#RTC4276). It's also good idea to replace the pan seal. For $13.00 it's probably cheaper to just get the full trans kit from L8 > https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/f...nd-seals-kit-1

 

Awesome--thanks for following up. I found the old o ring on the old filter--I'm on a roll here. I bought the filter from (cough) autozone (cough), so no surprise that it was missing something, but the old one looks in good shape so I just reused that. The dealer doesn't even have the capability to order the bolts, but luckily there are a couple of bolt and screw shops in town that should be able to get me something, so I'm headed there in a bit.
Thanks--I'll look into the gaskets for sure!

 

Ok--final update. Got the bolts replaced at a local bolt shop (with some heavy-duty allen heads instead of torx), got everything back together, filled it with about 6 quarts, and it reads pretty good. Will obviously check for leaks again in the morning as well as check fluid level.

Not a lot of fun (well, sort of), but next time will go much easier because I know what I'm getting into and the bolts should all be in good shape.

Now, hypothetically, let's suppose that a friend of mine was doing this, and managed to break the bolts on the flange where the y-pipe connects to the muffler.....

 

Now, hypothetically, let's suppose that a friend of mine was doing this, and managed to break the bolts on the flange where the y-pipe connects to the muffler.....[/QUOTE]

well.......tell your friend that we've all been there....a potential can of worms, but I would go ugly early and replace all the exhaust studs , chances are another one or two will break when you go to tighten them, in theory 4 of the 6 could be drilled straight thru and just use a bolt /nut...if need be. A "friend" of mine had to take the ex manifolds off and operate on them that way. the 6 studs are metric 8mm /1.25 pitch..........if you take out the exhaust manifold bolts they are 3/8" sae course thread....no....I'm not messing with you...the engine is an older GM block &heads (Buick) and those bolts are standard----not metric---- even though the original head on them may be a 12 point metric !!!....just use a good grade 3/8 bolt

tell your friend good luck and let us know how it goes