Tried to fix high idle...Now cranks but won't start
#1
Tried to fix high idle...Now cranks but won't start
Ok, different problem from my stuck shifter.
I bought a 98 Discovery 1 a month ago as a project/learning experience. It needed a new fuel pump and had been sitting for at least 6 months, if not a year.
I bought a new battery, replaced the pump and fuel filter, put in new gas, changed the oil, and it started right up. It idled at about 1400 rpm, but the oil light stayed on.
I shut it down, got an oil guage installed and started it up again. Good news: it had 25-35psi on startup. Bad news: now idling at over 2000 rpm and sounded like it wanted to takeoff.
At this point, I put a new oil pressure sensor on and read through all that I could find about high idle. I performed the following:
- removed intake hose and cleaned out throttle body
- removed and sprayed out IAC with electrical and TB cleaner
- replaced vaccum hose from plenium to fuel pressure regulator
- replaced PCV hose from plenium to valve cover on passenger side (this one was bad. It was not the proper hose, was ripped, and was not even connected to the valve cover)
Now that this is completed, it wont start. It turns over, but doesnt fire.
Some checks Ive done:
- fuel pressure is at 30psi
- I hooked an inline spark plug tester up, cranked it, and the light didnt go on
- Live data on scantool says 65 rpm when I crank the engine. If this functions, does that indicate the CKP sensor is ok?
If the CKP is ok, would the next step be to check ignition voltages?
Couple other notes...
Live data on scantool says TPS is stuck on 93.7% and doesnt change with pedal action. If I disconnect it goes to 0. Reconnect and back to 93.7%.
I dont know if this would affect anything, but it had a check engine light on, so I cleared the codes with my scantool to see what would pop back up. Nothing has come back, but the check engine light no longer comes on with key in position 2.
Thanks in advance and please help!
I bought a 98 Discovery 1 a month ago as a project/learning experience. It needed a new fuel pump and had been sitting for at least 6 months, if not a year.
I bought a new battery, replaced the pump and fuel filter, put in new gas, changed the oil, and it started right up. It idled at about 1400 rpm, but the oil light stayed on.
I shut it down, got an oil guage installed and started it up again. Good news: it had 25-35psi on startup. Bad news: now idling at over 2000 rpm and sounded like it wanted to takeoff.
At this point, I put a new oil pressure sensor on and read through all that I could find about high idle. I performed the following:
- removed intake hose and cleaned out throttle body
- removed and sprayed out IAC with electrical and TB cleaner
- replaced vaccum hose from plenium to fuel pressure regulator
- replaced PCV hose from plenium to valve cover on passenger side (this one was bad. It was not the proper hose, was ripped, and was not even connected to the valve cover)
Now that this is completed, it wont start. It turns over, but doesnt fire.
Some checks Ive done:
- fuel pressure is at 30psi
- I hooked an inline spark plug tester up, cranked it, and the light didnt go on
- Live data on scantool says 65 rpm when I crank the engine. If this functions, does that indicate the CKP sensor is ok?
If the CKP is ok, would the next step be to check ignition voltages?
Couple other notes...
Live data on scantool says TPS is stuck on 93.7% and doesnt change with pedal action. If I disconnect it goes to 0. Reconnect and back to 93.7%.
I dont know if this would affect anything, but it had a check engine light on, so I cleared the codes with my scantool to see what would pop back up. Nothing has come back, but the check engine light no longer comes on with key in position 2.
Thanks in advance and please help!
Last edited by pinkytoe69; 02-22-2012 at 10:03 AM.
#2
No CEL with key on? There is your problem, the alarm will not allow the ECU to run the truck. Check over EVERYTHING you have touched since it last was able to run. Have you used the key to lock or unlock the door? Do you have the fob for the truck? If you do, use that to lock and unlock the doors, you may get lucky. Try turning the key on and off several times. The alarm unit is under the passenger side dash, near the kick panel. It's a green bitch, er, BOX. Try playing around with the wires? Maybe you have a bad connection there? There are 2 plugs that go into it.
#3
IMHO, the starter actually turning the engine over indicates that the alarm is not part of the issue. Please see attached page from the RAVE ETM.
You cleaned the IACV, and a bad IACV can make weird idle. But you also repaired two vacuum leaks, so maybe those were supplying what vaccum you did have (the IACV is a computer stepper motor controlled vacuum leak) - and the IACV is actaully frozen stuck.
1. If no spark, fuses, coils, relays, etc should be checked, along with CKP. Not too sure about that 65 rpm, could unplug CKP and see if that changes. May be a "program minimum value", and not a real value, etc.
2. Some codes don't turn on the MIL (engine light) unless you go thru a couple of drive and cool down cycles.
3. You should be able to unplug the TPS, and truck crank, it will use a default value for that sensor. Does sound like TPS is toast. The TPS being bad will make the rev to about 2000 problem.
You cleaned the IACV, and a bad IACV can make weird idle. But you also repaired two vacuum leaks, so maybe those were supplying what vaccum you did have (the IACV is a computer stepper motor controlled vacuum leak) - and the IACV is actaully frozen stuck.
1. If no spark, fuses, coils, relays, etc should be checked, along with CKP. Not too sure about that 65 rpm, could unplug CKP and see if that changes. May be a "program minimum value", and not a real value, etc.
2. Some codes don't turn on the MIL (engine light) unless you go thru a couple of drive and cool down cycles.
3. You should be able to unplug the TPS, and truck crank, it will use a default value for that sensor. Does sound like TPS is toast. The TPS being bad will make the rev to about 2000 problem.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 02-22-2012 at 10:40 AM.
#4
#7
Ever since I erased the codes, the CEL does not come on at all when I put the key in position 2.
Im pretty sure I hooked everything back up. The only things I actually removed were the IAC and the air intake. Reconnected TPS, IAC, MAF, and the little airbox sensor.
Did not mess with the ECM, at least not on purpose.
I dont think Im withholding anything...I flushed the brakes while waiting for the new PCV hose to ship.
If you read my shifter thread from yesterday, I do have an issue with the button rod in my shifter, but I dont think that affects starting so long as the selector is in Park or Neutral, right?
I dont think Im withholding anything...I flushed the brakes while waiting for the new PCV hose to ship.
If you read my shifter thread from yesterday, I do have an issue with the button rod in my shifter, but I dont think that affects starting so long as the selector is in Park or Neutral, right?
#8
#9
Did you have the battery disconnected? If you connected it without holding the hood switch down you caused the alarm to arm.
Do you have the key fob to lock and unlock the doors? I'm certain the alarm is armed, causing the no CEL in pos II and thus no spark.
If you have the fob follow these directions.
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable
2. Hold the hood switch in the depressed position and put the cable back on.
3.Close the hood.
4. Use the fob to lock and unlock the doors.
5. If you have no key fob use the key to lock and then unlock the DRIVERS door. Be certain to turn it completely in both directions and return to center.
Your truck will start only when you get the CEL in key pos II. You may have to play with the buttons on the fob with the key on or off. Make sure the drivers door is closed when you are doing this.
Do you have the key fob to lock and unlock the doors? I'm certain the alarm is armed, causing the no CEL in pos II and thus no spark.
If you have the fob follow these directions.
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable
2. Hold the hood switch in the depressed position and put the cable back on.
3.Close the hood.
4. Use the fob to lock and unlock the doors.
5. If you have no key fob use the key to lock and then unlock the DRIVERS door. Be certain to turn it completely in both directions and return to center.
Your truck will start only when you get the CEL in key pos II. You may have to play with the buttons on the fob with the key on or off. Make sure the drivers door is closed when you are doing this.
#10
re: Bad news, you humble opinion is WRONG. No CEL in pos II= NO START
My opinion is that this is not the alarm, which inhibits cranking. The no CEL in position 2 may be something else. I don't have a CEL on position 2, and my truck runs every day - light could be burned out.
From RAVE, theft alarm. NAS -
So in position 2 going to 3, you won't be able to hear the starter turn the engine over if alarm is tripped. If starter IS turning, then it could be something else. If schematics tell you this, and the text of the manual tells you this in several places, maybe, just maybe, there might be something to it.
My opinion is that this is not the alarm, which inhibits cranking. The no CEL in position 2 may be something else. I don't have a CEL on position 2, and my truck runs every day - light could be burned out.
From RAVE, theft alarm. NAS -
ENGINE CRANKING
It is only possible to crank the engine when ignition
is on and the alarm disabled.It is only possible to crank the engine when ignition
So in position 2 going to 3, you won't be able to hear the starter turn the engine over if alarm is tripped. If starter IS turning, then it could be something else. If schematics tell you this, and the text of the manual tells you this in several places, maybe, just maybe, there might be something to it.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 02-22-2012 at 11:55 AM.