I will look into the ECU/Alarm as well. Sounds like you can disconnect the battery cables and touch them together and/or do a 1515 key lock trick.

One thing though...

Like savannah_buzz, I was also under the impression that if a non-start was alarm related that the starter would not get power and thus engine would not even crank. Is that not the case?

 

The alarm can be armed yet still allow the engine to crank over. No CEL in pos II+ NO START! I guarantee it.

 

The hood has been open since I got the truck into the garage. I have disconnected the battery many times due to my stuck shifter/key issue and have had successful starts.

I do have a functional key fob.

 

So we are both right - the alarm is not tripped, so it is not inhibiting crank. And perhaps it is armed, and ECU thinks it is not the right time to turn on sparks, etc. Sort of an out of sync condition. Certainly would arm itself, if battery when dead while truck was locked, and a new battery instaled (it assumes last state). That's immobilzation, abd it happens everytime the system arms.

Look at the alarm LED:

Theft Alarm LED

and immobilised

and this:

ENGINE IMMOBILISATION FUNCTION

The engine will be immobilised whenever the theft
alarm is armed.
The vehicle may only be mobilised by using the
handset or the driver’s door key.
The electronic engine immobilisation is controlled
jointly by the engine management system’s
Electronic Control Module (ECM) (Z132) and the
Theft Alarm Unit (Z163).
When the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) immobilises the
vehicle, it sends a signal to the ECM. The ECM then
immobilises the engine management system until a
mobilise signal is received from the Theft Alarm Unit

(Z163).

Engine management if inhibited would keep the engine light and other things from powering up.

So if alarm LED is on or blinking need to go thru that reset dance.

I'll have to award points to Higgs on this one. But I'm not sure why the alarm would not have gone off by now, opening doors, etc.

 

Thanks for all the help!

I will look into the alarm/ECU when I get home and will hopefully have good news tomorrow...

 

Ok, I followed these instructions using a brick to hold the hood switch down.

Afterwards, I believe a fob re-sync occurs.

HANDSET TRANSMITTER RESYNCHRONISATION

The Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) will remain
synchronised with the handset unless:

button.

After I press the lock button 4 times, the vehicle locks on the 4th and the theft LED does a rapid flash (volumetric?) followed by a slow flash (armed/immobilized?).

At this point, I hit the unlock button, I get in the car, close driver door, and still get no CEL at key position 2.

One thing I noticed, I only get the rapid/slow flash after the initial lock following Higgs' reset procedure.

All following locks with the fob give me the mislock flash (LED off for 10sec, then slow pulse):

Partially armed mode

If a door, tailgate or bonnet [hood] is left open when
the system is armed, the LED will not light for 10
seconds indicating a mislock condition. Hazard lights
will not flash. If an open door or tailgate is causing the
mislock, the starter motor is disabled. The alarm will
sound if ignition is turned to start position. If an open
bonnet [hood] is causing the mislock the starter motor
is disabled. The alarm will arm the volumetric part of
the system. If the door tailgate or bonnet [hood] is
subsequently closed, after a 5 second delay, the
doors will unlock and immediately lock and the system

will fully arm.

All my doors are shut and a brick is still on the hood switch, so I dont know why I am getting a mislock.

Will faulty door and/or hood switches cause that?

Will this test be of use?

BUILT IN TEST PROCEDURE

The built in test procedure is accessed as follows:
1. Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked,
alarm disarmed, bonnet switch depressed.
2. Carry out instructions 3 to 7 within 2 seconds.
3. Release bonnet switch.
4. Switch ignition on.
5. Open driver’s door.
6. Switch ignition off.
7. Switch ignition on.
If alarm is correctly accessed, the horns will sound
briefly and the Theft Alarm LED and hazard lamps

will flash. The following checks can then be made:

Perimetric Testing

1. Open and close driver’s door or tailgate – Theft
Alarm LED and Hazard lamps will flash.
2. Depress and release bonnet switch – Theft
Alarm LED and Hazard lamps will flash.
3. Pull the driver’s door sill button up – Theft alarm
LED and Hazard lamps will flash.
4. Turn driver’s door key lock cylinder – Theft Alarm

LED and Hazard lamps will flash.

 

BAck up to hit unlock button and get in the truck. At that point the alarm does not sound, or flash lights, and the LED is out on the dash?

Mislock could happen if you have a bad door switch as well (doesn't have to be an open door).

But if you are "no red light after disarm", then alarm should be off.

From RAVE:

The Theft Alarm LED receives battery voltage at all
times. It is grounded by the Theft Alarm Unit (Z163)
to indicate the following conditions:

 

 

couple other questions...

1. Will bypassing the spider, as detailed in the alarm sticky, fix this?

2. Will bad battery cables (or some other power line) allow for enough power to have "normal" dash lighting, yet not enough power to create spark?

 

1. The GEMS ECU is programmed to expect the alarm to be there, and with immobilization, it expects to be sent a psuedo random code at each attempt to start, which it compares to a list inside the ECU, if they agree, start truck. So if the alarm is off, and it is not talking to the ECU, ECU thinks you are trying to straightwire the truck and steal it. The GEMS and the Lucas 10AS alarm system have lots of program options that can be adjusted with something a lot more sophisticated than a code scanner. While you can disable the inhibit cranking, you would have to program the ECU not to look for an alarm system.

2. Generally, if there is enough power to spin the starter there is enough to make a spark.

3. Do you have a volt meter?