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troubleshooting rich condition

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  #11  
Old 01-28-2016, 11:35 AM
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I've been hesitant to offer this because my confidence is not high, but what the heck, it sounds like you're running out of things to check/change.

What kind of temps are you seeing on the obd reader? The ECU will make it run rich until it is up to temp.
 
  #12  
Old 01-28-2016, 12:37 PM
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Right. First, the O2 sensors have to come up to heat, then as the engine begins to get hotter, the fuel will evaporate better etc.

LTFT is based on running conditions over time. I see adjustments every ten or fifteen minutes or so.

My observations are based on driving for hundreds of miles, not just running it on the driveway.

I watch the IATS and the coolant temperature sensor. Once warmed up, the IATS tends to run somewhere between 90 and 120F on warmer days, and I'm seeing coolant temps from 180 to 200F. I believe the previous owner installed a 180 degree thermostat. I have all good components in the cooling system, so it tends to run cool, but not less than 180.
 
  #13  
Old 02-01-2016, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by binvanna
I had a faulty upstream O2 sensor a couple years ago and replaced it. At that time, it was reading like 0.10V and would not change as the engine ran. Now all four O2 sensors are active and their voltage varies from 0.0V to about 1.0V. However, I notice that all of them frequently read near 0.9 or 1.0V when the engine is running. They sometimes dip lower, but not for long. I wonder if I should replace the other upstream sensor, but I don't think this is the cause of the rich running.
I don't want to hijack this thread. But had a question about your o2 readings.

Binvanna, I'm troubleshooting a high idle right now. And trying to determine if my o2 sensors are working right. What year is your vehicle? And you see this voltages through your odb2 reader I'm guessing? Since the o2 is really producing a wave of different voltage levels I would think that the odb2 would have a hard time showing this correctly.

I uploaded a pic of my odb2 reader (android app called torque) that shows o2 x1 o2 x2 etc... I've never seen the numbers move. I have a 96 disco, these should be showing values I would think.

Also is there any updates on your issue?
 
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Last edited by land44; 02-01-2016 at 11:08 PM.
  #14  
Old 02-02-2016, 11:29 AM
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The way I understand it, the O2 sensors should produce a wave that varies between 0 and something close to 1V. To see the actual wave, you would need a real-time view that's updated several times a second, and preferrably something that records the voltage over time that's updated that often. What I have is simply an Ultragauge that updates every one second. At that rate, it's far too slow to see what the O2 sensors are doing, but I can observe that they are doing something and aren't dead. The one-second intervals show they are sometimes near zero, and other times near 1V.

If your reader takes a one-time snapshot, the indication may not move. The frequency of updates might depend on the app, and on the sending unit that is plugging into the ODBII port.
 
  #15  
Old 02-02-2016, 11:38 AM
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Current status on my issue is I'm waiting for o-rings. I was hoping to re-use my fuel injector o-rings after I tested the injectors, so I didn't order them, but I ripped the first one putting it back in. In the mean time, I've done a lot of parts cleaning.
 
  #16  
Old 02-02-2016, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by binvanna
The way I understand it, the O2 sensors should produce a wave that varies between 0 and something close to 1V. To see the actual wave, you would need a real-time view that's updated several times a second, and preferrably something that records the voltage over time that's updated that often. What I have is simply an Ultragauge that updates every one second. At that rate, it's far too slow to see what the O2 sensors are doing, but I can observe that they are doing something and aren't dead. The one-second intervals show they are sometimes near zero, and other times near 1V.
This is my understanding also. What year disco is yours?
 
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