"Since you say you've had the system bled several times and air bubbles come out every time, I suspect you have a leak somewhere in the system"
I would also be checking line and bleeders looking for a loose one,
you say they get air out of the right rear every time.
But isn't that were they are starting to bleed? that's bleeding from the master to the rear caliper if there is air anywhere in the line that is where it would come out

 

Thanks for all the replies in helping me try to figure this out.

I think I need to look closer at the booster.

I agree that with air getting in there should be fluid getting out so I can't explain no leaks. All I know is that after a flush braking is good with a nice firm pedal. Then it goes soft with no loss of fluid.

When I re-plumbed everything from the firewall down is original, I just redid everything from the MC to Proportioning Valve and out. (no leaks up front)

Now when I push hard on the brake(because I have to) it feels as if there is a popping at the bottom, like metal rubbing over a rubber lip. Hope I have messing anything else up with my aggressive braking

 

The dealership said that and they did a flush hooking it up to all four, and the head of the service department there actually use to own my vehicle, What are the odds haha?, so I don't think are trying to screw me.

The rear breaks are on the same line from the proportioning valve then quickly T's off to the original two individual lines to the rear

 

Defender vented rotors and 4 spot calipers will help with the brakes.

 

Thanks, if overheating persists after everything is bled that is what I'll have to do.

 

You don't vented rotors to prevent overheating unless you do some very out of the ordinary driving.

 

If you do any towing or downhill offroading then they fade fast, vented rotors will help and the 4 pot calipers provide more bite.
Throw in some braided hoses on the front and thats about the best you can get without spending a lot of money.

 

I do both. Most of my braking comes from the engine and the trailer brakes handle the trailer.

 

I agree it might not be completely necessary, but I don't know what else to do. When I had original LR pads on I would go through them really quickly. Now I have the EBC Green stuff. It might be my driving style but I constantly get brake fade and it's not enjoyable.

 

When you say 4 spot are you referring to the calipers that have two lines running to them like on the RR? Currently I only have one line running to front calipers.