Ultimate Brake Setup?
Camel Trophy
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,245
Likes: 402
From: Traverse City MI
LOL........ whether you know it or not you just spelled it out. It's not a "possible" vacuum leak, it's an "actual" vacuum leak. When's the last time YOU got your hands dirty on this truck? 8.5 mpg IS really bad. I can't believe your not fouling plugs, ever check em? P1496 has to do with the AEL leak detection system and your not even pulling .28 psi in 25 seconds. That's pitiful. A gnat can fart harder.......
Anyways, when's the last time you checked the PCV? How bout the intake manifold bolts? Cleaned the throttle plate/throat? Checked and/or replaced vacuum hoses especially to AEL can, the plenum, air cleaner and no, the cruise control vacuum pot does not count - it has it's own pump so don't care.
You need to find your leaking brake line and tighten that up too, air in a brake line does not compress like fluid. You should be getting a drip from a line not sealing. All you need is a line wrench, even a regular open end would work. Go through and tighten your lines and couplings and eventually you'll find your leak.
Just because you pay someone to fix your problems doesn't mean they fix them, it's usually just words and not deeds. I believe the other way around, few words and loud deeds that do all the talking. Mechanics are no exception and obviously they're taking your money without a problem. I'd get rid of the EBC pads too, go back to semi-metallic, they work much better - less fade.
Anyways, when's the last time you checked the PCV? How bout the intake manifold bolts? Cleaned the throttle plate/throat? Checked and/or replaced vacuum hoses especially to AEL can, the plenum, air cleaner and no, the cruise control vacuum pot does not count - it has it's own pump so don't care.
You need to find your leaking brake line and tighten that up too, air in a brake line does not compress like fluid. You should be getting a drip from a line not sealing. All you need is a line wrench, even a regular open end would work. Go through and tighten your lines and couplings and eventually you'll find your leak.
Just because you pay someone to fix your problems doesn't mean they fix them, it's usually just words and not deeds. I believe the other way around, few words and loud deeds that do all the talking. Mechanics are no exception and obviously they're taking your money without a problem. I'd get rid of the EBC pads too, go back to semi-metallic, they work much better - less fade.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 98
Likes: 2
From: Bayonne, NJ
I am not an expert or claim to be one but if you have no leak I can pretty much assure that no air is sucking back into the system. The atmospheric pressure is minute compare to the hydraulic pressure a boosted system generate and brake system by design are a very enclose system to avoid any contamination of the hydraulic fluid. Even moisture greatly affect the performance of the components. Personally, I will empty and flush the whole system and start with fresh fluid, give it a good bleed and use a see thru hose attach to the bleeder and drain into a glass container until you see a steady flow of fluid without bubbles.....
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Blacksburg, VA
So I think I am going to get another type of brake pad seeing as the current ones have not stopped squealing which makes me think they are suspect. Bad pads might explain sucky stopping as slow speeds and fade under a load.
Once I change them I can narrow it down.
Once I change them I can narrow it down.
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Blacksburg, VA
LOL........ whether you know it or not you just spelled it out. It's not a "possible" vacuum leak, it's an "actual" vacuum leak. When's the last time YOU got your hands dirty on this truck? 8.5 mpg IS really bad. I can't believe your not fouling plugs, ever check em? P1496 has to do with the AEL leak detection system and your not even pulling .28 psi in 25 seconds. That's pitiful. A gnat can fart harder.......
Anyways, when's the last time you checked the PCV? How bout the intake manifold bolts? Cleaned the throttle plate/throat? Checked and/or replaced vacuum hoses especially to AEL can, the plenum, air cleaner and no, the cruise control vacuum pot does not count - it has it's own pump so don't care.
You need to find your leaking brake line and tighten that up too, air in a brake line does not compress like fluid. You should be getting a drip from a line not sealing. All you need is a line wrench, even a regular open end would work. Go through and tighten your lines and couplings and eventually you'll find your leak.
Just because you pay someone to fix your problems doesn't mean they fix them, it's usually just words and not deeds. I believe the other way around, few words and loud deeds that do all the talking. Mechanics are no exception and obviously they're taking your money without a problem. I'd get rid of the EBC pads too, go back to semi-metallic, they work much better - less fade.
Anyways, when's the last time you checked the PCV? How bout the intake manifold bolts? Cleaned the throttle plate/throat? Checked and/or replaced vacuum hoses especially to AEL can, the plenum, air cleaner and no, the cruise control vacuum pot does not count - it has it's own pump so don't care.
You need to find your leaking brake line and tighten that up too, air in a brake line does not compress like fluid. You should be getting a drip from a line not sealing. All you need is a line wrench, even a regular open end would work. Go through and tighten your lines and couplings and eventually you'll find your leak.
Just because you pay someone to fix your problems doesn't mean they fix them, it's usually just words and not deeds. I believe the other way around, few words and loud deeds that do all the talking. Mechanics are no exception and obviously they're taking your money without a problem. I'd get rid of the EBC pads too, go back to semi-metallic, they work much better - less fade.
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