Hi everyone. This is my first post ever here! I’m a new daddy to an Oxford blue Jay I call “Sherlock”; I expect to be sleuthing out several mysteries as I care for the vehicle over her lifetime.

My stock 1998 Disco I V8 was rebuilt (for reasons unknown) at some point by the previous owner. I don’t know what the rebuild consisted of. But I do know it included the heater core, heater pipe kit, heater hose and clamps; I suspect it was more extensive than that tough, as it runs very smoothly, and very quietly. It currently has ~130k miles on it, and Carfax shows head gaskets were replaced at ~30k miles.

I’m going to install an ultragauge and replace all fluids before taking it for any real drives.

Three questions:

-What is good running temp I should expect to see on the gauge?
-Should I preemptively install a new 180 degree thermostat so I know where ground zero is?
-Any other ‘before I drive it’ things you recommend I do?

Im very competent in the garage and have access to basic mechanic tools. I restored a 74 Ford Bronco (my first-born), so I’m confident on this road that lies ahead.

Happy to be here! Thanks all!!

 

Good call on the Ultra gauge and fluid changes. My D2 and P38 both generally run in the 190’s. I have my U-gauge alarm set to 217. Even on a hot day climbing hills I don’t think you want to see it go a lot above 210.

 

I have installed a number of 'aftermarket' thermostats and have had problems with them. The gauge on the dash is wildly inaccurate, thus the temp sending units can be inaccurate as well. I use a handheld laser scanner to check the temp if I think it is too hot.
Leave the thermostat alone if it is working.
Keep an eye on the power steering fluid as they tend to leak, don't use Power Steering Fluid as it will leak. Use ATF
Check the brake fluid level often and keep it full. Again use only LR parts if the master cylinder goes out. Watch the fluid reservoir as they leak at the bottom seals.
Lubricate the front drive shaft u-joints and make sure they are not worn. If the front shaft breaks, it will take out the transmission case.
Rust is your enemy. check brake lines and fuel lines..
.
Front axle swivel ***** can corrode and leak. If you are lucky, they should be teflon coated (a black-ish color, they stand up to road salt better. Check grease at the swivel ball on each side of the axle (drivers and passenger)

Lubricate rear door latch by removing the Land Rover emblem and use a spray lube in there. The latch can lock up and you won't be able to get in If that happens, remove the emblem, lube it and wait. could take a day or so and it will work again.

I kept my '97 alive for 6 years and it finally dies at 300k miles (don't let your kids borrow it for a few months)

my current 1999 (D1) had just over 100K on it and is now up around 170K after a lot of work to get it running. It has been a good little truck so far. Just repaired rusted out fuel lines.

Enjoy!!

 

The Land Rover Discovery Workshop Manual has an excellent section covering basic maintenance items to check. Filters, fluids, and a lot more. I think it is worth buying the book (it cost me about the value of a tank of gas), but you might find a digital copy. I like having the book in the garage near my other tools. I use it quite often.

 

go here and download the manual in PDF format. Save a few bucks,
Go down the list and get the D1 Shop Manual

Land Rover Manuals

 

Welcome to the forum Sherlock,

I 2nd everything the other members have said. Follow these tips and you will be good to go.