I've read so many threads on different forums about this ultragauge. For me, buying this thing was a no brainer. It's a temp gauge with an alarm, which is exactly what I wanted simply for piece of mind. I know any number of things can kill your engine but at least now I can better keep an eye on the temperature. And $70 was a great deal for that piece of mind.
I haven't seen the temp get above 185 yet but I've only gone on short trips in the evening. I can already see how this gauge will help with troubleshooting in the future. Now I can sell my PLX kiwi wifi!

 

i have the engine temp, engine timing, rpm, mph, bank 1 front 02 sensor, bank 2 front 02 sensor.

on the 02's i'm just reading how lean and rich the mixture is on either bank. still throwing a p1176 code every week and a half. so, trying to figure out why.

i have the mph and rpm because for a while i didn't trust my dash gauges.

not sure why i have the engine timing up there. just kinda fun to watch.

my engine temps stay between 190 and 197 no matter my driving.

right now the ultragauge is hooked up to the '04 suburban because the coolant temp gauge doesn't work and $70 for the ultragauge is a hell of a lot cheaper than $400 for a new gauge cluster from chevy. i think i'll get a second ultragauge soon.

jastutte
1996 discovery
182,800 miles

 

There are shops that rebuild GM gauge clusters, they have so many problems with them it has become a actual repair business online.
You send in your unit, they rebuild it and sent it back to you.
Google it or look on e-bay.

 

Such a relief seeing 185 on that temp gauge instead of looking at my dead stock gauge and wondering. Best car part I've ever bought.

 

Had a chance to drive in traffic, with AC on, bumper to bumper, red lights... The temp got to 212. A lot of the time it hung near 195.

When we got home I got my temp gun, a craftsman 1000 degree high temperature infrared thermo, and got 230 off the thermostat housing as soon as I pulled up and popped the hood. At that time the UG read 210.
I shot the radiator and got 220 +/- near the top hose (top of rad, drivers side) and about 210 +/- near the opposite corner. (near bottom, pass side).
The radiator history is unknown, I've owned this D1 for a year and a half and it doesn't look new. Whatever that's worth.
The 230 on the thermo housing is a bit concerning. Not sure if that's acceptable, would love any other thoughts on all these temps.

Cheers.

 

Actually not bad. In slow traffic it would rise. 10 degree drop across rad top to bottom sounds good also. May improve things slightly with radiator flush. IMHO bad is like the guys who report 220 and above in that situation. If it cools back down on the highway to the 185 - 195 range taht is good. Another thing that impacts slow speed temps is fan clutch.

 

It seemed to cool back to the 185-195 range pretty quickly after traffic began flowing better. I also noticed fan clutch engagement around 188-190. It was roaring at and above 195-200.
The main reason I feel the need to monitor it so closely is my head gaskets are seeping and oozing and I don't have the time to tear into this rig right now. So I keep a really close eye on coolant level, oil level and inspect it often. It's hanging tough so far. It's been seeping for at least a year now.

 

You could swap out stat for a 180. Less heat is less expansion, less pressure, etc. Is the coolant ooze front or back, or somewhere else? Very common to leak external at front or rear, where this channel is very close to edge. Not so common inbetween.

 

Ha ha, that pic looks familiar. I've seen that more than a few times.
It's seeping on the front and I'm really not loosing much coolant. Can't say for certain but I think maybe I add about a cup or 2 every month or so and it's a daily driver.
I do want to swap out the stat. Maybe I'll toss one in before summer gets here. Less pressure is a good thing. I want to baby this leak as much as possible.

 

Just bought one about 20 min ago.. Can't wait to see how it works, any one have any suggestions about set-up?