Fan definitely looks like sucking an oil substance in from somewhere

Leaking on tight turns, bad pressure line, my guess

 

Yes! I think that might be a combination of power fluid and motor oil.

 

Hello Gentleman!

Thanks you so much for your detail observations and assistance with my cooling system project.

I have taken more photos and took the the radiator to one of the best radiator shops in my area. The fine gentleman that runs the shop told me that he could get my radiator rodded for 65 dollars out the door. He noticed the radiator looking ok but the rodding job might give me a little piece of mind.
What do you advice me regarding this rodding job?

I included some images as requested

 

I'd replace the fan clutch and get the radiator done. Both are inexpensive insurance. Replace the serp belt too, it's dry rotted (cracking). When was the last time the motor was timed?

 

Hi Thanks for the respond

I will replace the serp belt. The last time the motor was timed was about 2 years ago. I have put in some 600 miles in the last two years. Last time it was used was in a very dusty desert.

Regarding the radiator, I did a visual inspections from the outside and it look good. I also looked in to the inside and was not bad at all. However, a rodding will be a great thing to do.

For the Clutch fan, It is getting a lot of the power steering fluid leaking from the pump. I trying to see how much the pump is going to be to be locally rebuilt. Does any one any particular brand or vendor to get a decent one?

I am also considering getting the cheap lifetime warranty type from autozone or O'Reilly.

Please advice,

 

Power steering pump at Rovahfarm; RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories

 

Dosent s10 pump work?

My p/s pump leaks were loose hose lamps on resivoir and bad pressure hose

 

TOM!

A big possibility that this might be my problem. I looked at the hose attach to the p/s pump and it appear to me that the fluid is actually leaking from there and not from the pump. I will use a high quality steel clamp to see if If the leaks continue.

Thanks for the points!

I will keep on trucking

 

Haven't read thru all the back & forth, but don't forget to replace the cap and black expansion tank. The black tank is an insidious piece of crap and is just waiting for the worst possible moment to burst on you. Also, coolant maintains its high boiling point because of pressure, reduce or release the pressure and the boiling point drops and your coolant is no longer effective. Replacing the tank and cap with the translucent / white aftermarket one from AB is like 45 bucks and a must - do, and if it does end up being head gaskets the last thing you want is the crappy black tank to crack, depressurize and vaporize your coolant, and trash your shiny new head gaskets.

Other observations.... your spark plug wires look pretty beat, good 8mm wires are a must have. Also, the serp belt at Advance Auto is junk, NAPA sells a decent one for the D1 but it's a little pricey, I got a Gatorback on ebay or Amazon for under twenty bucks and it's been great. My .02

 

The pump works but I am getting pump fluid all over. I will check what it causing a big mess of p/s fluid around the water pump and in other areas.

I think that I need to bleed the system and remove the old clamps.

I will keep you guys updated!