Anyone have any experience with a scangauge and water temps:

Looks like I am getting up to around 230f on the gauge after first start/warmup, then I seen the thermostat open and we settle back down to about 198. She slowly will rise maybe into the 215 area, then clearly see the thermostat open and we settle back down to 198. Is it something I should be concenrned about with the initial rise up to 230/240? Is the scanguage actually accurate?

Thanks
Matt

 

You might want to change out your t/stat to see if you can tighten up those numbers.
You could be seeing the electric fans coming on or the viscus clutch engaging, either way you start up temps should not go to 230 so it will take a little work on your part to fifure this out.
Let us know what you find.

 

IMHO you stat should have operated before 230. On a D1, the stat is like $10, plus a gasket, 1/2 gallon of coolant. You live in an area where a 180F would work well, and if comes with a little "jiggle" device in the rim that should go at the 12:00 position, to pass any steam pocket. I tried no stat, a 160 stat, a 195 stat, and the 180. Stayed with 180, It runs 178 - 183, maybe up to 187 on freeway in summer. Might go into 190's for short time when getting off highway and slowing down. Was going to 227 before I changed. I also had my radiator calcium rodded out, new fan clutch, and oversize fan. The two big changes came from new stat and rod out radiator.

You can also toss stats in a pan and boil on stove to see when they operate.

Avoid the "fail safe" stat design, it latches open when overheated and you have to replace it.

Also, the electronic monitoring of the mechanical thermostat can make you crazy. It will have thermal "overshoot" and is not on/off like a light switch. First time in the morning will be higher, and after a number of cycles at steady speed it will settle down.

 

Mine does the EXACT same thing, only I spike at 215, then once the t-stat opens it settles to 195, which is my t-stat temp.
If I dont get on the expressway and only drive around town my temp spikes around 200 and then settles to 195.
How high it spikes, assuming your t-stat is good, depends on the engine load and engine speed.
Once fully warmed up the engine temp should settle and only fluctuate 5-10*F.
So if you are starting the engine, driving a block and then flooring it to get on the expressway and merge with fast moving traffic, your engine temps are going to spike really high.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.. I was just curious if anyone else was getting the same readings using the scan gauge. I was concerned with the numbers getting so high initially. I will get a new Tstat and see how it goes from there. I will follow up. Since we are talking about a scan gauge- do any of you have any issues with a "pending code" intermittently showing? Seems like one minute I have one and the next it shows "no pending codes". I am battling a O2 sensor issue.. was getting a downstream heater code, swapped sensor with a spare and now I have a catalyst code. Exhaust port is slightly stripped, but seems tight enough for govt work. Just chasing my tail around in circles with monitoring this scangauge. PID data during error seems inaccurate- always show open loop/ -40f Temp and 0RPM. Can't be correct..
Enough rambling on my end.. just curious if anyone has pending codes intermittently showing up with a scangauge?

Thanks so much for the help

 

I dont have a Scangauge, I have a Ultra-Gauge, no pending codes, all monitoring systems work.
I had my engine temp sensor fail and send false temp's (-40)to the ECU causing her to run open loop all the time killing my MPG and causing rough run when hot.

 

Agreed - my D1 reads -40F when the ECT is unplugged. It is the one with the square top.