Ok I have a 1998 Disco 1. I have owned for a year and a half. I don't drive it often only a few times a month. The issue is that when I do go to drive it the vehicle does nothing...UNTIL...I crank hard on the steering wheel to the left about a half of a turn or more. Then it will fire right up. Well a newer issue is that something is draining the battery in between uses now. But really I want to know how to fix the starting issue as my girlfriend likes to drive it but can't start it cause she isn't strong enough to turn the damn sterring wheel.

 

Oh Maybe I should also mention that it doesn't start after it rains at all. Takes a day or two to dry out but I can drive it through a river or pond and it will not die and if I shut it off it will fire back up later.

 

D1 or D2?

If D1 - check ECU if it is in box inside engine compartment, passenger side, needs weather proofing. (rain issue)

If D1, shift interlock - see pages in section C1 of the RAVE Electrical trouble shooting manual, can be related to bad brake light switch., also in the RAVE workshop manual.

 

Both of your points state D 1, are they both for a D 1 as mine is a D1?

Thanks

 

Any idea why the steering wheel being turned seems to correct the none starting? Could it be a lose wire in the steering column?

 

Your steering has nothing to do with your engine not starting. How many miles on it, when was it last tuned along with plug wires and do you have a check engine light on, if so what are the fault code numbers?

 

Are you talking about not being able to turn the key to the starting position or does the key turn freely?

Be careful because it is easy for the key to break if forced.

With mine, there was enough wear in the lock cylinder and the key that sometimes the key does not want to readily turn. A little graphite powder and some finesse helps tremendously if that is the problem you are having.

The key release, the steering lock and all of that does come into play with that issue. Cranking the steering wheel does tend to relieve some of the force that keeps the steering lock engaged. I usually try to not even engage my steering lock. I did struggle with it at first but I have removed all the trim and stuff around the key lock cylinder and have developed the feel for just how deep to put the key in and gently rotate the key from the off position (0) to the (1) position, allow it to do its thing, and then gently go to the (2), allow it to sit just a second, then go to the (3) position to start it. If it does not click smoothly from one position to the next, I switch it back to off, and ensure it is in but not rammed in, there is a little spring like effect when the key is buried too deep in the hole. I can actually see the little tab release with all that plastic trim removed. It is a feel thing. I do not allow others to mess with it because I have only one key at present and it is easy to break these if you ram it home and twist it hard to try and force it.

Another issue that can give intermittent dead starter is the starter to frame ground connection. You should look at the condition of that ground cable at the frame. Corrosion is not good there.

 

I think your ignition switch is toast and by turning the steering wheel it puts enough twist in the ignition switch for it to work.

As for the battery drain, you said you dont drive it much, it is getting cold out.
how far do you drive it when you do drive it and how old is the battery?

 

The key turns freely. The way I found out about turning the steering wheel was because the wheel was locked so I cranked on the wheel to unlock it and the damn thing only tried to start the more and more i cranked on the wheel. I think Spike 555 migt be on to something. Does anyone else believe that he might be on the right path?

When I drive, it could be ten miles or it could be 100 back and forth to Boston. The battery was new as I put it in when I purchased it in the early Spring of 2010. It was a one owner rich guy who thought the vehicle didn't work so I got it for $750.00.

The engine light is on but it is for the O2 sensors.

 

135K on the vehicle.