My sprayers now work, I did the test for the mfu 2times and they started working

 

As I can see many of you are struggling with your cruise control. I have been fighting with this problem for months and since I cannot stand any of the toys on my 1997 Disco not work, I went through all the tests and checks and unnecessary replacements but finally got it going. My problem was lack of communication between VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Now I am in a position to try to save you, my friends, time and money and hope for the best for you:
1) Do not replace anything before you make sure what the cause of the problem is.
2) Start from the most common cause and the easiest to check.
3) First check the hoses to make sure there is no crack causing air leak. Find a Cruise Control Hosing Diagram and check them all. If not sure about their leak, replace them anyways, it is cheap. To make sure of this, you will have to take the vacuum motor located in the hole bellow/ besides the jack. It is hard to take out and put back, you have to use tilting. There are three rubber “thing”s! sitting over three holes, just pull them out.
4) Make sure there is no leak in the rubber puller on top of the engine, beside the accelerator cable. Disconnect the hose from it, using another hose suck and see if it retracts and holds.
From now on, you have to do your tests using the ECU plug, located under the glove box. To access the ECU, you have to tilt the glove box out all the way. You do not have to unscrew anything. Open the glove box, on the sides and in the inside of the holes by the large springs, there are two wheels, just pull both up and guide them through the holes at the same time and the glove box will fall down making the opening behind it visible. It is hard to pull, but using the right tools, if needed, you can do it.
Once done, find the CECU, screwed vertically to a plate adjacent to a green box (I guess Alarm System Brain). Its plug is black and about 2 inches long. You have to unplug it, you may need to prise off the wire clip first and if needed. If you find it difficult to access the ECU, you can take the underneath cover off by removing the plastic black fasteners.
Now, following the numbers on the plug from left to right (from 1 to 8 on top and from 9 to 11 on the bottom) do the following tests carefully. I took this instruction off another sight (I guess www.landroversourse.com) which is more comprehensive than a similar instruction in one of the postings here:
Using a testmeter perform the following tests:

Ground Test - From pin 8 (black wire) on the cruise control module plug perform a continuity test to good chassis ground.

Main voltage test - With ignition & cruise control system on (on-off switch on the dash), transfer in high (non difflock) & auto box in 'drive' (you do not have to turn the engine on, just press the brake pedal and shift the gear) connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire, if difficult, you can connect it to any ground) and pin 10 (white & yellow wire) you should have battery voltage if not check fuse, under the steering wheel following the diagram there.

Secondary voltage test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) and pin 9 (Purple & Green wire) you should have battery voltage if not check lock out relay or gear selection switch.

Brake Pedal Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 5 (green & purple wire). Press the brake pedal, you should get battery voltage.

Steering Wheel Set / Accel Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 3 (red & white wire). Press the Set / Accel button, you should get battery voltage.

Steering Wheel Res / Decel Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 4 (blue & white wire). Press the Set / Accel button, you should get battery voltage.

Vacuum Pump Test - Using a jumper wire connect pin 10 (white & yellow wire) to pin 1 (white & blue) this provides power to the pump. Then using a jumper wire connect pin 6 (black & yellow) AND pin 7 (black & red) to pin 8 (black wire). This should energise the pump & solenoid and the bellows should contract.

Speed Sensor Test - Connect a volt meter between pin 8 (black) and pin 11 (yellow & pink), drive the car around the block, voltage should increase as speed increases.

If any on the above electrical tests fail you will need to check the associated wires/relays/fuses. If all the tests pass it is likely the cruise control module has failed.
Now, if you have any problem following these instructions, or need any pictures, let me know.
Good Luck

 

My abs pressure reducing valve, it leaks big time, Paul Grant sent me a used one. I'm going to put it on Monday.

 

Not working (yet), in no particular order. Cruise Control, Seat heaters, Right rear interior door handle, Right front passenger window regulator, left rear passenger lock regulator, intermittent 3 Amigo's (or is that working?), Service engine light due to Transmission ECU (says codes). Chipping away at a valid inspection sticker for MA (draconian).

Already fixed (positive note), Drag Rod & Steering Damper, Power Steering Pump and Hoses (no leaks now), Passenger seat electronic adjustments, Stopped leak from A\C evaporator (dry carpets), alignment, Magnacor wires and Double platinum Plugs to go in as soon as the temp gets above 35f for a day. Almost forgot, replaced both upstream O2 Sensors to help with inspection. Finally, removed about two pounds of Yeti hair and mud from interior.

 

houmen, nice, thorough read. thanks

 

ABS, Cruise control, rear fog light, drivers side door switch for cabin lights, heater ****, ac but real men use windows lol.

 

Brake leak fixed, springs and shocks loaded. I spoke too soon, it has an oil leak on the lines. Very slow for now.

 

Neither Cruise nor the ABS functions on the 96 or 97. The heated seats on the 97 are only good for giving you a "tingle" in the seat of your pants and the rear window defrost on the 96 doesn't work...


The CEL on the 96 doesn't work anymore... It spent so much time on that the bulb burnt out...


All other factory and non-factory options/accessories function!!!

 

ABS, been dialed for years. Everything else works like it should.

 

Like a dumb *** went out and bought window control unit for dealer( like dumb ***) paid $270! Then I was surprised to found out the " new " switches my friend bought were the problem.! Two looked new but, apparently were bought on a online scrapper store and only worked sometimes. other two were on rear a and were not of concern.
Was soon to rain hard yes it does rain( but not much so far this winter) and even snow here in northern California! so started to bench test the new switches- none worked the same !!! Now- that's not good all! Had continuity at all times between two posts some sorta worked - set continuity signal to other post, with down position. But mamma that ain't how a six poster sposed
to work..So, took out new window control unit, inspected old one's board per a few good posts here and u tube video link- looked good. Starting to rain hard, no room in garage - refused to tarp the old gal- So took leads for the meter crossed the ends with a nail with head cut off ,to make jumper and started in hot plugging.[/B] ( what the hell burn a fuse or burn the board - I got new one's! )Took power red lead from connector( switch unplugged) and jumped to black on left side and viola the right window came up! similar black red combo on right of pin put it down! Left ft fix similar fix similar red / black combos Didn't have to mess with back as owner already had fixed up well with wood shims - English Walnut I think! Back windows will be another days project if someone her can please post a wiring diagram so I'm not flying blind!
who needs the switches anyways just pull up to the toll booth with your handy jumper! This would make a great u-tube for someone - like the guy in Maine.. In the end burned nothing as the WCU could take it-I guess/
Spent a lot of time looking ( per related posted here) for window wiring diagram in Rave manuals Disco 1 had nothing. Called College Friend Alan at Red Line Engineering Cannan New York and he helped- but heck doesn't anyone have the diagram??? Bak to dealer tomorrow, return wcu buy switches with credit,less 20% restock.Need a nicer dealer in Bay Area - anyone know one- hell my GMC/ Caddy guy gives me factory printouts off the computer!
Thanks you guys Jumper John...