Exactly what I described in the link in post #3.

 

Reread my post. I never said that a bad damper would cause wobble.

Wobble = slop. Period. There is no arguing that.

The trick is to find the slop. Period.

Slop = something that lets the wheel move independent of steering input and/or independent of the other wheel. Loose or bad bearings, loose worn swivel pins, worn ball joints, dried up shrunken bushings, badly adjusted steering box. All are potential purveyors of slop.

5/1000's" of slop for bad preload, vs. 3/16" of slop in a wasted ball joint or burned up bearing, which is going to affect steering more?

Applying to reason here, think about it please...

 

I never said you did.
What you did do was equate steering dampers and swivel preload.
Reread what you wroteNot only are you wrong about swivel preload, but you're perpetuating the myth that the steering damper's purpose is to damp oscillations. It's not, it's purpose is to damp the shock loading to one side or the other that you get when hitting obstacles on the trail.
It's no wonder so many people install a new damper and call the problem fixed.

Also, you seem to keep implying that I'm suggesting swivel preload is the only thing that will cause wobble, I'm not. If you go back and read what I've posted, swivel preload is one of the last things I mentioned. At least it was until you started saying it won't cause wobble and equated it to steering dampers.

 

Well it seems that I have started some arguments. I would like to add that the tire rod ends are new as well. Also the pan hard rod bushings are new. The wheels do not wobble at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9. The steering wheel does have play before the actual wheels turn, very little and it was there before the wobble. The play goes in to the box, it is not the u joints from the steering column. Is this box adjustable?

So what happens is when i hit a bump, the steering wheel will oscillate then stop without having to reduce speed. Before the repair it would oscillate and worsen forcing me to slow the vehicle.

Also if the swivel pins were not he issue then how could the majority of the issue have been remedied by replacing the driver side pins? Does this not indicate that that was the issue?

Thanks for all the replies

 

What brand of panhard rod bushings were used?

Take your truck to an indy land rover mechanic unless you're ready to tackle a lot of fairly in depth trouble shooting yourself

 

Yes, there's a nut on top for adjusting it. It's described in the shop manual.

It appears it was only part of the issue.

Once you get the steering so it seems good, either by you doing or by a shop, remove the steering damper and drive it. There should be no wobble with the damper removed.
If it's ok then reinstall the damper.

 

I can't speak for anyone but myself, but personally I am discussing, not arguing. What we are discussing is a tiny thing, most likely not related to your issues.

Next, adjust your steering box. Any Seinfeld fans here? (From "The Jimmy" episode, possibly the single greatest half hour of tv ever made)

Elaine: You know, just admitting that a guy is handsome doesn't make you a homosexual.
George: It doesn't help.

What I means to say is that may not be all of the problem, but it certainly doesn't help. Kung Pao!

Next, your current symptom sounds like what I was dealing with, and it turned out to be bad front shocks, everything was just bouncing all over the place every time I hit a bump. Not saying it is your issue, but it might be worth checking.

Last, it wasn't your issue, because you still, apparently, have the issue. It may have been part of your issue, but not all of it.