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When to Replace Coil Springs?

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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 03:43 PM
  #1  
ononomos's Avatar
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Default When to Replace Coil Springs?

I recently replaced the shocks in my ‘97, as well as steering damper, all ball-joints, sway bar bushings. Though my ride quality DID improve, it’s still pretty rough when going over bumps in the road. Potholes and train tracks cause the entire cabin to shake like I’m riding in a grocery cart. I realize my truck will never be a smooth riding vehicle like my wife’s Toyota Matrix, but it could definitely be better!

I plan on replacing all of the rubber body-mounts because many of the front ones are completely busted. I imagine this will only marginally improve my problem.

So my main question is:

What are some key indicators that my springs need replaced? All 4 are straight and not obviously broken. My truck is stock height and doesn’t look especially low.

I guess it’s safe to assume that 25 years of gravity has taken it’s toll regardless. However, I’d hate to put a bunch of time, $$$, and energy in to an unnecessary task.

Also, any brand recommendations for new coil springs?





 

Last edited by ononomos; Oct 5, 2021 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 05:46 PM
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Best4x4's Avatar
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RTE, OME, TF, are all good coils. TF just have a crappy paint job on them so spray em down with some clear coat before installing them. 25 years = those coils are dead. Your shocks will wear out faster with worn out coils btw. 2inch MD rides nice on a D1.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 07:56 PM
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I bought nice blue uprated Bearmach springs from Rimmer Bros. and paired with Bilstein shocks from local sources. I like the ride and handling, even over train tracks. I ended up with identical springs in the front, even though stock front springs are not identical in NAS vehicles. They offer many options, including OEM rated springs and various lift heights. The springs came in a set (RA1349), standard ride height. Prices from Rimmer Bros. were very good a year ago when I did the work, about $245 including tax and shipping. I could afford to wait for the shipment, which was only a couple weeks when all was said and done. I reused rusted spring bases and clamps that are cheap and probably should have been replaced, but everything is still going strong so far. The job was not too difficult. Lots of jack stands. I used a heavy duty spring compressor set that my mechanic son loaned me, a bit tricky to position properly. I say, go for it! You'll love your Rover even more.

 
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 08:01 PM
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ononomos's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
25 years = those coils are dead. Your shocks will wear out faster with worn out coils btw.
Well, say no more then.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 12:55 PM
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I just did the same as John. Bought heavy duty springs from Rimmer Bros in England. Matched them up with Bilstein 4600s including a new Bilstein steering damper. Love the feel and ride.

However, make sure your tie rod ends, drag link ends and rear upper ball joint are all in good condition (if the boot is torn I recommend replacing with Moog). Even with new springs and shocks you’ll still rattle a bit with those components being worn.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 02:58 PM
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Alright, just got some TerraFirma HD springs for the front, stock height, with the bad paint job lol.

But man oh man am I having trouble with getting the old ones out! I jacked it up and supported the front frame on jackstands so the springs expand. I rented a spring compressor (goes in the center of a spring) and tried compressing my left spring to get it out. All it did was bunch up in the center, while the top and bottom remained in place. This is strange, because, if I’m correct, there shouldn’t be anything securing the spring other than it’s own tension. Is it simply rusted and needs a good whack with a hammer to be freed?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2021 | 10:02 AM
  #7  
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The springs give up a good fight because they are good and stiff. As I recall, I needed to detach the brake hose support to give the axle more play. Be careful not to damage the brake hoses from the weight of the axle. I might have unbolted the sway bar too, since the side you work on needs to go lower than the other side. The compressor also needs to be fitted just right to grab as much of the spring as you can and stay straight. Then still may need to force the axle down as far as you can. The front springs are just set in place, the rears have a steel clip that holds the springs in place when we go over those jumps
 
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