I'm not sure the slim jim would work as I can manipulate the lock with the key or lock **** no problem. There's aproblem with the linkage probably from the handle. This is a relatively low priority for now.

Re the gusher, yes I can put a finger on it but I can't stop the water flowing...just interrupt the stream. It feels like water coming out from where the head and block mate, about in the center of the head. There is gasket material protruding in this spot as well.

 

Bad thing is the water in oil. If it was just external leak, patch with JB Weld for more testing, then clear up with head gasket. But if you patch now, more water will go into oil. HG seems only path forward.

 

I agree....hence the chicken comment. If it where my project that's where I would have headed first since everything else spools off a running engine. Until that is a known entity/quantity/cost it's just a $300 dollar door stop. If the head is damaged at the coolant port it could be tig'd since it's in a non-stressed area. If it's just the gasket (which they do more times than not fail in that locale) then it's no worries. Paul or Will would have a head if needed and it would be who I'd go to if there is no alternative. I would have the block pressure tested even if the leak is obvious since a liner leak might just be probable after three found.

 

A good point, the head can be examined without ordering a head gasket kit. Block pressure testing as well (not the same as a coolant test).

Attached spec sheet for head "flatness", from overhaul manual part of the RAVE.

 

What is involved in a block pressure test? Can that be done with the heads off? What about with the engine still in the vehicle?

My only real dilemma now is whether or not I take the head off or try to sell it as is. I think I'm going to clean up the interior (looks like a dog was living in it) then post an ad on craigslist for 'as-is, needs head-gasket'. I could probably get $500 for it.

As it sits now, it does run and drive which is nice should someone want to test the trans and/or load it on a trailer. Obviously with the heads removed, it will be more of a logistical problem for a potential buyer.

Anyway, that's what I'm thinking right now.

 

Pressure test is done with heads off and engine still in the bay...yep. It pressurizes the coolant passages to test for coolant leaks and is practical with sleeved aluminum engine blocks. If you have a shop in town give them a call to find out how much.

I'll tell ya what, if money is the concern then it's time to cut an run. If you can afford $450 - $500, even in increments it's worthwhile to find out how bad the damage is. If it's just the hg then all you need is hg's, valley pan gasket and head bolts. It already has proved that it runs so just some minor tuning parts will bring it through the winter.

I understand your dilemma, I had a hg go last year. It's a sinking heart feeling. I went at it like no tomorrow, faced the facts. It took me a couple of hours to tear off the top and unbolt the heads. I'm very familiar with my truck. I removed the entire intake system as one assembly which cuts off many hours of piddling around. Found missing gasket at cylinder 7. From start to finish it took me only 3 days (had enough vacation days left). It took me more time to clean.

The heads don't have to be torn down to have them skinned! I removed the rocker assembly since it's extremely easy. Then took heads to the shop. They clean them prior to mounting to the surfacing machine. I disassembled and cleaned the valve-train. I now know the overall condition of my motor and what to replace next when I have to, for now I don't have to do a thing since I'm still getting excellent overall mileage.

Even with the head job I still have less than $1500 invested in my scrap yard truck in 3 years, 11 months and have put over 50k on the clock. I've had it down south (not far from SB - Augusta) and all over Michigan. It's been one of the most reliable, best riding road vehicles I've owned and I enjoy working on it. I even fixed my non-intermittent/non-parking wipers without costing a dime. It's that type of vehicle, at least to me it is. It's always been fixable without throwing cash at it. I even smacked a deer with it, wrinkled my drivers side fender, removed it and pounded it out to look respectable.....sort of. I can get another for $100 at the salvage yard but don't care to cuz it's a truck.

So....... if your thinking of letting it go, that's ok.......but if you think you can hack this problem then go for it and you'll be rewarded many times over since you haven't had the opportunity to drive it yet. That's the beauty of these trucks, they ride like Caddy's and four wheel like nothing else on Earth. One time down a washboard logging road will convince you.

 

Augusta? Played golf for the first time in my life at the National, shot a 72... got so excited I couldn't play the second hole...

figured we needed a laugh about now

 

Lol........

I actually came down to Savannah from Fort Gordon. Myself and two buddies did some gambling, entered a Hold'm tourney on a boat on the 4th of July. The ex-Navy Rescue Swimmer buddy came in second and made $800. I spent 4 1/2 months at Fort Gordon (Augusta).

You know....the whole time I was down there I could not find one Disco in any of the Pick-N-Pulls nor not one for sale with an R380 either. I looked from SC to AL, NC to FL. Not one.....as rare as a snow ball.

 

Thanks guys and thanks especially IH for taking the time to type out that reply. I spent a couple hours today cleaning the interior and fiddleling with stuff. I figured that needed to be done regardless of the decision on the HG.

I got the CDL 'H' light to extinguish by crawling under the rig and manipulating the actuator from underneath. Apparently the shifter isn't throwing the small lever over far enough. I pushed it over pretty far then got in started it up and put it in reverse...bingo! light went out. I love small victories!

 

Fan fare! Brews all around! One attaboy is awarded!