When I got this 98, I thought I would just remove the wood and replace with the pieces from my 96... But, now that I've had it awhile, I've changed my thoughts and think it will stay, but the cracks in the console piece "clear-coat" and the AC control overlay that started to curl could certainly be improved on.

A little warm air assistance with the heat-gun allowed the AC control piece to come off and all the old tape came off cleanly, but the slight warp will need to be fixed before re-applying. I had thought of heat and weights, but then remembered all the friends here who might have better info - any thoughts? The skateboard on the console is complete and unbroken - one small 3/8" section of "clear-coat" has come off, but is hidden under the transfer case shift boot. There are a few visible cracks in this clear-coat that would sure look better if they were gone. Any thought on what kind of material this coating is? Can it be heated and "re-flowed"? Chemically softened and repaired?

Just one of those projects that keep me thinkin'! Russ

 

 

I believe it is an epoxy, I've had no luck re-flowing, it just makes it crack and chip away easier.

Check in with Congleton, they sell refinished kits and may can give you pointers.
Burled Walnut Wood Trim Kit for 1995 Range Rover Classic LWB/SWB - Congleton Service

 

It doesn't sound like you're looking to do a Concours restoration. I have a '98. The wood trim is worthless junk. The skateboard is plywood, and the rest of the trim is plastic. There's a paper-thin veneer in there. Saving it would be like trying to save the film sandwiched between the layers of glass on a shattered windshield. But replacing the trim with something better but non-original can be easy. I cut pieces of solid walnut. I also considered solid brass, copper or bronze (you can easily order bar stock from onlinemetals). The skateboard is different because it is more complex and necessarily thin. Solid wood would crack. Metal could be done easily enough with an XY plasma table. I don't have one, but there have been some shops that produced them in the past. I don't know of any available now. It can be done in plywood with a scroll saw. You can either use the stock plastic bezel for the switches, or build a steam box and bend the plywood. Personally, I am more inclined to build the entire center console, also replacing the ABS plastic part which is usually cracked around the parking brake handle and switch bezel anyway. Unlike the dashboard parts, the center console is not critical to energy absorption in a collision. It could be made with TIG-welded aluminum plate or baltic birch plywood. This fellow did it with what looks like masonite hardboard and pine and covered it in vinyl: https://landroverforums.com/forum/mo...tensive-14123/

 

This is my first focus ( shift console piece is next!). I did pull out the heat gun and cautiously warmed it and let it set overnight with weight on it - it mellowed it, but still more than I want to trust to molding tape alone. I'm thinking now that maybe moisture to the backside might alter the results - thinking that the wood to plastic connection is "flexing" at different levels and causing the warp? The search goes on... Russ

 

I have that same trim under some weight in the back patio. It has been there for over year and has proven to be flat enough to remount when I get other dash parts fixed.. You can still find a piece or two around the yards, in fact I could get you one that is not missing that lower part.

 

Once I trimmed it, it looks good and will still look fine. I did put a little more heat to it and it looks like it might work. I also allowed the wood side to sit on a wet towel for a bit before the last treatment, to allow the wood to relax a bit and it seems to have made all the difference! I checked ou a Mercedes forum where they are just plain nuts about their wood! - but there is all kinds of info there. Console piece is next...

Of course I am in the middle of swapping my 96 w/o rear AC headliner into this 98 w/ rear AC - the 98 was trashed. I've got the cutouts marked and now I'm looking at adding some nutserts to the roof "ribs" to allow some equipment mounting. All this in my spare time... Russ

 

I did a row52 search for disco's around you in the boneyards. You are in dire need of a road trip. Some nice trucks getting into the yards here in the midwest but not many within 500 miles from you.

 

So true - not even many running around locally (3 that I've seen!). I've given notice to the local yards to call me if one comes in, but really I'm hoping to finesse my restoration skills and fix what I got. Russ

 

Then I look forward to seeing what you have done.. I get a thrill out of doing things like replacing the regulator rollers with 3 piece neoprene washers that work better than the originals. Still dream about that road trip to get parts from that prime d1 in the boneyard that some bonehead could not solve the high idle issue. iykwim...