Ok so I changed out my wires with 8mm and my spark plugs with autolite plantinum plugs. My truck drives fine for a while but if I leave it running it idles for a little bit and dies. If I shut it off then start it again it starts but sputters barely to 5 mph and then dies. After that it does not start up again until it cools down and then drives just fine again, but the process starts over. So I have no clue what the issue is. No fault codes no check engine light nothing at all. Fuel pump is a yr old fuel filter is brand new to. Please help before I take it to the range and blow it up.

 

You did the spark plugs and wires, what about the points and dist cap?

Did you reset the timing?

The 95 has a distibutor, 96 and up have coil packs. Yours has a amplifier that does tend to go bad. They sell an amplifier relocation kit, do a search on that as I am not well versed on the95, mine is a 97, big difference between the two.

 

I did not change the distributor cap or rotor. They both look to be in good shape but I'm not certain. Did not mess with the timing cause I thought it was unnecessary. And where can I find this amplifier so I can look at it? Thanks for the reply. I have been working on this truck forever and cannot figure it out.

 

Get different spark plugs, Autolites are the ones you use when you have a problem and you are selling it and you need it to run just long enough to get it sold.
Seriously, I used Autolite Iridium plugs once, they lasted about a month.
You cannot go wrong with NGK, Denso or Champion.

 

Either at the distibutor or relocated with a kit from AB.

See Amplifier Module Relocation Kit (Part # STC1856) - Land Rover ignition from Atlantic British

and Land Rover Ingnition Amplifier Module (Same Fit As Genuine Part # STC1184) | Land Rover Engine Parts

 

I just saw your signature, did you do all of that stuff before or after this started happening?

 

On both my 95's the amp module is on the side of the distributor.

I've been using Autolite copper plugs for years without any issues. I usually buy them because when I need them they tend to be the cheapest at the time.
Anything fancier than copper are a waste on D1's IMO.

 

I agree with Tom, use the cheap Coppers, I usually get the Champion Coppers for aout 2 bucks each. They work fine in mine.

I also see in your signature "Cold Air Intake" if that is one of the oiled ones, you should get that off of there before you do in your MAF.

With a distributor, you can have issues with the cap that may not be obvious to thye naked eye. Carbon paths that cause misfires.

I would put new rotor cap and rotor button in, new points (if it has them) I guess it does, and set the timing. You only did half a tuneup! And get one of those amplifier relocation kits.

Tom knows a lot mor about the 95 than I do.

 

I agree with the cheap cooper plugs, I'm just saying to use a better brand is all, Autolites are made by the same people who make Fram filters.

 

I recall our young Marine caleb Bo had a 95 and did not have a timing light or know anything about setting trhe timing. I had a timing light in my tool box left over from my 73 Mustang, so I sent it to him.

I would think that since the 95 has a dizzy, you should also have points to replace? and the need to at least check the timing and adjust for optimum tune, unless they are a lot different than what I am thinking, but since it was an early 60's buick V8 I would expect it to be that configuration.

I guess that's a generation gap thing as well since all of the "modern" cars do not have any adjustment of that nature. Maybe reflash or upgrade a chip or put on a "tuner" like the Bullydog for the diesels.