Wtf!!!!!
Spike555 I did all that stuff before it started happening. I think I'm not getting a spark from the ignition coil. And I've tried to check the timing with a timing light but Im not sure how it is done on a land rover. I will also change the spark plugs to NGK. Autolites were just cheap. Thanks for the replys I greatly appreciate it. I will let y'all know if I fixed the issue. Thanks again.
You check the ignition timing on a Rover the same way you do on any other engine with a dizzy.
If you want to know if you have spark, remove a spark plug, lay it on the exhaust, crank the engine over.
Does it spark?
If you want to know if you have spark, remove a spark plug, lay it on the exhaust, crank the engine over.
Does it spark?
I ought NGK Wires and Plugs, but the plugs had a larger body diameter than the Champion Copopers did and the damn plug was just fat enough that the NGK wire did not want to fit. I lubed it up a little with dielectric grease and got it to go on a loose plug but when trying to remove it, I damaged my brand new wire.
I took the plugs back and exchanged them for the Champions, just wanted to pass that on to you. As always YMMV.
YOU ALSO HAVE TO ENSURE YOU DO NOT INADVERTENTLY REVERSE THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR OR YOU WILL THROW OFF YOUR FIRING ORDER BY 180 DEGREES.
A quick way to check spark is to have someone hold a wire while you try to crank it.
You will know immediately.
I took the plugs back and exchanged them for the Champions, just wanted to pass that on to you. As always YMMV.
YOU ALSO HAVE TO ENSURE YOU DO NOT INADVERTENTLY REVERSE THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR OR YOU WILL THROW OFF YOUR FIRING ORDER BY 180 DEGREES.
A quick way to check spark is to have someone hold a wire while you try to crank it.
You will know immediately.
i had a rough idle issue after i replaced my plugs and wires. i used cheap autlites. switched out to NGK's and bam all taken care of. no more rough idle runs great. Also coming from owning a long line of old jeeps anytime you change your plugs and wires always change out your cap and rotor.
And do not forget to gap the plugs. Rotor caps and rotor button can look good but still have carbon paths. That is why I said you only did half a tuneup.
I also put a dab of antiseize on the threads of the plugs and dielectric grease on the plug wires.
On the 4.0 it is a little tight clearance on a few but I have a sweet stubby flex head ratchet and extensions for some spots and a long speedhandle and extension for other spots and move the air intake out of the way.
The 3.9 may be simpler. Just do not crossthread or break a plug.
I also put a dab of antiseize on the threads of the plugs and dielectric grease on the plug wires.
On the 4.0 it is a little tight clearance on a few but I have a sweet stubby flex head ratchet and extensions for some spots and a long speedhandle and extension for other spots and move the air intake out of the way.
The 3.9 may be simpler. Just do not crossthread or break a plug.
Sorry guys just got back from the field would have replied sooner. I replaced the ignition coil with a original Bosch one and it seems to have fixed the problem. I had put on a coil that I got from autozone thinking it would work fine but turns out it has to be a certain type. Call me an idiot but I figured it out and it seems to be running great at this moment. Thanks for the replies I really do enjoy this forum and everyone who adds to it.
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