I had this same thing happen and it seems to happen to a lot of people: take the timing cover off and suddenly you have low pressure.

In my case, I had a catastrophe that put metal in the pump, scoring the timing cover. A new pump didn't fix that. A new timing cover and another new pump fixed that.

The other thing that seems to happen a lot is in replacing the timing covers the pickup tube o ring is neglected or not replaced.

All of which is a PITA to just check, much less replace, but it has to be that if you had good pressure right before the operation. Walked and worn bearings can also be an issue but I wouldn't suspect that if this was a quick before and after problem and you can visually check walked bearings while doing other diligence. Bearings wouldn't get worn between oil pumps and even if they were worn to begin with, the new pump should improve pressure.

A stopgap to preserve your engine is a larger filter, like the wix 51459.

 

I have 6PSI at hot idle and 40PSI at 3000rpm - I'm assuming that the cold idle is above the 8PSI mark as no oil light, but didn't get that reading.


Am I looking at a new oil pump - I checked in the last front cover removal and it looked fine (no breakage or scoring) - is there an oil pressure valve I can check?


Its not leaking any oil at all.


Will be looking at changing the oil pump and putting in fresh oil.


Any other tips?

 

I'm sorry to see that you're still having trouble. I battled the same problem last week, again.

To replace the oil pump you'll be taking the pan and pickup tube off. So be sure the screen on the pickup tube is truly clean. I found bits of rtv and unknown fibers (almost looked like hair) in mine. Also check the o ring on the front end of the pickup tube. It is such a chore to remove the front cover I'd be sure you check everything.

There are two pressure valves on either side of the front cover. There are small circlips that hold them in. But they are hard to get out and back in.

Like you I did nothing that would affect oil pressure and it went low anyway (I replaced the heads). That's when I found specks of rtv in the screen. Maybe you just have a clogged pickup tube.

 

Just wanted to let everyone know my fix was as easy as the oil pump. Already have 2,000 miles on it since replacement of the oil pump! No oil light

 

What kind of truck is it? Because it sure ain't no Land Rover.

 

I had the same issue... it was RTV bits on the pickup tube. The switch and pump can spontaneously go bad, but that was unlikely in my case. When I pulled the oil pan my pickup tube looks like a sewer drain.

 

You have to pull the sump in order to change the oil pump in the front cover? I'm about to do this job, plus timing chain and water pump. I was planning to do those jobs first, then do a good oil flush - perhaps with MotorMedic or equivalent, and then finally pull and clean the pan, and check pickup tube.

 

Yes because the pickup tube has to be removed to get the timing cover off. It is connected at the bottom of the timing cover (2 8mm bolts) and to the bottom of the engine (1 13mm nut).

 

Got it. Thanks. Whats with RAVE saying I need to drop the cross member? Is that really necessary? I have the car jacked up by the cross member...

 

The back of the oil pan won't fit to pull it out between the drag link and the crosmmember, and you really can't work around it under the truck because there is no room to slide it out of the way. I jack mine on the driver side on the pointy thing just inside the radius arm joint. With my jack it is raise just enough on the driver side to make clearance for the sump to slide out.

Removing the crosmmember is a good idea but, as I have posted before, unless you have replaced the crosmmember bolts they are probably frozen in place and will round off at the heads and thoroughly **** you off. They are made of cheese. I had to drill and grind some of mine out and it literally took all day. Always worth a try though. If you get them out replace them with grade 8 bolts with bigger heads. I posted the specs somewhere on the forum. I had to buy a whole bag of them on amazon.

Another option is to unbolt one side of the drag link. Unless I am misremembering the choke point.

The bolts holding the back of the oil pan to the bellhousing (4 on front, 2 on back at bottom, 13mm) can also be engaging. I've done all of this recently, repeatedly, and the best strategy is to use socket extensions to turn the ratchet from a distance on the front ones.