New guy here, been lurking for awhile, I'm knee deep in bringing a rough 02 back to life.

Question, and I know this is odd and specific but after having reviewed all the wiring diagrams and the electrical book from LR, I swear they wired the midrange
speakers on the high line audio option out of phase. Is there a reason?

So you can pull those speakers apart pretty easy, the little tiny bit of wire on them, one red one black, leads to a perfectly
normal terminal piece riveted to the little speaker basket with the usual + and - stamped into it, red for +, black for - per
usual. This keyed connector to the door harness from that midrange has the RB (red black) on the + and the KB (pink black) on the - for both sides.

The book says...


"RH mid range front door speaker The positive output from the head unit is connected on a BK wire to connector interface C0229-20/C0067-20. From the interface the positive output continues on a G wire to the power amplifier. From the power amplifier the positive output continues on a KB wire to connector interface C0463-2/C0744-2 LHD or C0459-2/C0744-2 RHD. From this interface the output continues on a KB (pink black) wire to the RH front mid range door speaker."
They appear to have the positive KB wire going to the negative on the midrange speaker.

"The RH front mid range door speaker negative output is connected on a RB wire to connector interface C0463-1/C0744-1 LHD or C0459-1/C0744-1 RHD. From this interface the negative output is connected on a RB wire to the power amplifier. From the power amplifier the negative output is connected on a S wire to connector interface C0229-21/ C0067-21 LHD or C0229-21/C0067-21 RHD. From this interface the feed continues on a BR wire to the head unit."
This is also backwards, they have the negative going to the positive on the midrange speaker.



Then for the Left we have:

The positive output from the head unit is connected on a BW wire to connector interface C0229-22/C0067-22. From the interface the positive output continues on a Y wire to the power amplifier. From the power amplifier the positive output continues on a YB wire to connector interface C0459-1/C0744-1 LHD or C0463-1/C0744-1 RHD. From this interface the feed continues on a RB wire to the LH front door mid range speaker.
This would seem to be correct, RB to speaker +, and they go on to explain that the KB is the negative which is correct.


This is also echo'd in the actual wiring diagram.

I don't find any fault in any of the other wiring in that system.

Am I missing something here? The speaker is labeled + and -, the wire color all matches the book, the connectors are keyed, the speakers are the same left and right, the system hasn't
been modified (least not this part of it), could they have just screwed this up from the factory? I'm not sure how obvious an out of phase midrange speaker would be but I'm sure
it's not ideal.

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I only came across this because the actual wiring diagram does not list positive and negative for some reason, rather it's described in the other manual which is a painfully British way of doing things.
Someone had cut the connectors off the low range door speakers and I needed to ID + and - for them. I now know what LR says but I'm a little suspicious.


LF Door low range
blk pink +
blk red -

RF Door low range
blk pink +
blk red -

What's odd with that is the blk pink being positive matches the seemingly incorrect RF midrange wiring.
The LF midrange, which seems to be correct per the markings on the actual midrange driver, is the opposite
of the low range driver, red black for +, blk pink for -.


I've had a 30 year old Jaguar for quite some time so I'm not a stranger to oddness though I've never found anything electrically
that seemed to just be plain wrong.

 

I haven't looked so these are only thoughts that could explain it:
The polarity markings on speakers are arbitrary. There is no requirement for how any speaker is marked. Though there is common convention, there is no spec.The mid and low could be opposite winding directions.
My second thought is that there could be enough phase shift in the crossover circuit that flipping the driver polarity was the best design choice.
Either way, it is probably correctly documented...of course, that could be wrong too.
Finally, go ahead and flip the polarity and give it a listen test. You decide if it's wrong.

 

Helluva first post, and welcome! Since you're already familiar with the JLR way of doing things, none of what you found is a surprise to you or us (the royal us). I'm with H20nSnow on this one. Only your ears will tell you if it's wrong and this may require disconnecting many of the other speakers so that you can listen to the speakers in question independently. The only relevant thought I have is that I know by reversing phase you can introduce some headroom in the sound, and I *think* some of the audio systems in these trucks have an ambience setting, so perhaps this is how they introduce the spatial effect. I also know from experience that mixing & matching components from different model year trucks doesn't always work out so well so perhaps there's some trickery going on through the range of equipment. Have you compared the 03/04 ETM to the 99-02 to see if the questionable wiring follows? As I'm sure you've realized, it could also just be a typo.

Edit: I knew I had seen it somewhere. I just went out and checked my 2000.

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the sanity check.

I saw that spatial audio option but had not considered the phase shift possibility, it's been a loooooong time since I got in the weeds with crossovers and dsp's and such.
I will try flipping the phase on one of those mids and see what happens. We got this poor thing with a really horridly installed aftermarket radio and garbage 5.25's
butchered into the rear tailgate and doors so I'm piecing it back to some semblance of okay-ness. I know I should have just replaced all this stuff with quality
aftermarket but my retired Father that we're setting this us as a daily driver for wanted to try to rescue the stock setup so we're giving it a shot.

Did I mention the engine is out too?

 

Depending on the crossover circuitry the polarity of the speakers has to be inverted to each other in order to have a flat response and not a notch in the audio spectrum at the crossover frequency. The schematics do not show the crossovers. The mid and high range drivers are connected in parallel, which makes no sense, so assume the crossovers exist somewhere in the wiring.

Polarity of speakers is marked at the terminals, either "+" or a red dot for plus and "-" or black dot for minus, or only a black dot for minus, or only a red dot for plus. You can verify the polarity marking with a 1.5V battery easily. If you connect the plus terminal of the battery to the plus terminal of the speaker the membrane moves outwards.

Edit: added link
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Inverted-Polarity.htm

 

Appreciate the suggestions, I don't know enough about crossover design to have considered there was something more complex going on.

I was able to power the system up and test things the other day, near as I can tell nothing is dramatically out of whack so I'll chalk this up to one of those things I'll just never know the why of.

Pleasingly, the tailgate woofers are active enough to rattle the license plate and the replacement mid-bass door speakers seem to be doing their thing and everything else works with the new headunit
and line level converter. All I have to do now is build an engine and re-build virtually everything else on the truck lol.....

Amusing side note, the super-lock and immobilizer function sounds like a headache waiting to happen that we don't need on this so I added an aftermarket keyless entry unit(the factory key fobs were trashed anyway).
My usual modus operandi for such is to just tie in to the interior door lock switch for simplicity and I found that it would lock, but not unlock with the aftermarket keyless.
In fact it tried to lock again when asking for unlock. Some head scratching and poking round revealed that with the factory rocker switch unplugged, it worked as intended.
There is apparently some connection when the factory rocker is at rest between the lock and unlock lines, I added a few diodes between the switch and where I tapped the
aftermarket keyless in and it seems fine. I've installed a dozen of these things easily in old and oldish euro cars, first time I've come across that one. Be interesting to know the why of it too.