So I'm back in NJ visiting family and had some work done at 5 corners Auto repair in long branch.

I had pretty much all fluids replaced, and things checked, and the inline thermostat mod. It immediately dropped the temp to like 183F or so driving, and about 197 parked. New fan clutch too. I was going to put the soft spring 180F thermostat, but was talked into the mod, and am happy about that. I feel stupid that I didn't get a new radiator at the same time, but soon enough, that will get done too, cap etc. looks like a new a/c cond. fan too... but for now i'm psyched about the big temp drop.

 

question: How are you bleeding the system? I see no bleeder.

 

That system, based on where you live will cause you a lot of grief during the winter cause it will not allow your engine to warm up enough to allow the engine to go to closed loop causing your engine to run full rich all or most of the time.
A much easier way, for people who want to cool off their engines is to just install a soft spring t/stat from Lucky 8 which will drop your temp by 12 to 15 degrees while allowing your engine flow to remain as it was designed.
Also when doing this, replace the coolant cap, cause they do wear out and switch to green coolant.

 

I'm thinking I won't need to bleed for a long while, but if needed, I can lift the thermostat housing while the system is pressurized and unscrew the housing a bit until it bleeds. I have an ultragauge to keep close eye on the temp

Disco mike, yeah that was a concern, but I'm gonna be spending a lot of time roaming the desert southwest soon, and i got sold on the mod. I have a soft spring therostat like you said, but went another direction. Plus, I'm free to roam to warmer climate in the winter

do you see any reason I can't put a 190F thermostat for the winter or a 190F full time? that should keep it just under 200F.

what temp is optimal all year long?

If it's too cold, it runs rich, which loses fuel economy... but will that also gum or foul u the engine faster? or just use more fuel?

thanks for your responses!

 

The 195 stat will be the start open temp, and then fully open add another 15 -20 to that. I'd leave the 180 (which I run in a D1, 180-183 at freeway speed in the 90's F). And my ECU goes closed loop in like under 10 seconds, even in winter, but I seldom see below 30F. Think the CAT temp is also a main part of that equation. If you have to swap thermostats in winter, it will be just like grandpa did. Cheaper to swap stats than swap head gaskets....

I would point out that DM owns a D2, and lives in a much colder and more elevated area than I do, so your results may vary.

 

Big fan of the inline thermo stat mod. I did the mod about a year ago. I live in Canada. It can get to -30 deg C in the winter. The system runs a degree or two lower in the winter. It warms up quickly and goes into closed loop properly. It doesnt run rich. Problem with running to are exagerated. If you thinks things are too cool you can change out for higher temp chevy thermostats.

I recommend the vent with sight glass so you can easily bleed things and monitor the system of leaks. The thermostat needs a 1/8 inch hole. I can back Disco Mike up on the expansion cap replacement. Age and Dexcool eventuall destroy the cap. My old cap looked OK but it wasnt working right. I replaced it and I had no more air leaks.

 

I actually laughed out loud. Really. Points for creativity.

 

Hey Scott, I'm glad to see your happy with the work! Do you see any negative difference in fuel economy? Also, the 180 will stay the same temp in the winter, and it will get to operating temp in the same length of time. Also, the system requires no periodic bleeding, the return through the 5/16" hose from the top of the radiator to the top of the bottle does that for you. The only time you would need to bleed is with a complete flush/fill. I pull 25" of vacuum on the cooling system to extract all air and check for leaks before filling the system, this eliminates the need for bleeding.

 

Hey Chris, yeah I remember you said you hit it with a vacuum to get any air out of the system... nice method. I forgot to really check the mileage on the way back to chicago but I'm pretty sure it was about the same... just about 16 mpg. I wish I had you put a new radiator at the same time everything was apart. I'm in chicago and headed out west in a week, so I'll have my mechanic here swap it out with a radiator from radiatorbarn.com .... and also headed thru salt lake city, try to drop in to great basin rovers and get the new slightly unbalanced propshaft warranted... can't wait

also had code p0430 for the catalytic converter, but I'll wait a bit on that one