03 D2 overheating
#1
03 D2 overheating
So, 3 years ago, RoverMasterTech installed the thermostat mod and even with an old junk, original radiator, it immediately dropped the operating temp 20 degrees, and it ran about 185F or so in 100F desert heat. I had since replaced the radiator and then a month and half ago my fan blew up and destroyed the newish radiator.
Two months ago, before the fan exploded, I notice the temp (ultragauge) creeping up and having to turn the heat on to keep it at about 205F - 210F
I had a shop replace the radiator (nissens), water pump (BPutah), hoses, fan clutch and had them flush the heater core, which seems like that flush fixed my cabin heater issue. The heat pumps out of the vents nicely now.
I drove from CT to NJ and had to turn the heat on on the GSP, stuck in traffic. My brother burped the system, and the upper hose was squishy is now firm, and a lot of air burped out of the overflow tank. I drove it around town, and it was cooling much better. I could turn the A/C on, stop, and it would heat up to 205F and once i started driving it would cool to 190F, even with the A/C running, so I thought I was GTG
I then drove to chicago, and the whole trip, during the hot sunlight hours, 90F ambient, I had to turn the heat on to keep it at about 200-210F, sometimes it dropped to 190'sF
also, in traffic and stopped, in neutral, keeping it at 2200 RPM or so only dropped the temp a few degrees. I seem to remember running the water pump in traffic having a greater effect
At night I could turn the A/C on and it stayed 185-190F
the chevy type thermostat is 3 years old
coolant overflow tank remained full to top for 1000 miles after burping
no check engine light, and the engine runs well
edit... the fan shroud was obliterated when the fan exploded, and is currently gonne
any ideas?
thanks for reading my long *** post
scott
Two months ago, before the fan exploded, I notice the temp (ultragauge) creeping up and having to turn the heat on to keep it at about 205F - 210F
I had a shop replace the radiator (nissens), water pump (BPutah), hoses, fan clutch and had them flush the heater core, which seems like that flush fixed my cabin heater issue. The heat pumps out of the vents nicely now.
I drove from CT to NJ and had to turn the heat on on the GSP, stuck in traffic. My brother burped the system, and the upper hose was squishy is now firm, and a lot of air burped out of the overflow tank. I drove it around town, and it was cooling much better. I could turn the A/C on, stop, and it would heat up to 205F and once i started driving it would cool to 190F, even with the A/C running, so I thought I was GTG
I then drove to chicago, and the whole trip, during the hot sunlight hours, 90F ambient, I had to turn the heat on to keep it at about 200-210F, sometimes it dropped to 190'sF
also, in traffic and stopped, in neutral, keeping it at 2200 RPM or so only dropped the temp a few degrees. I seem to remember running the water pump in traffic having a greater effect
At night I could turn the A/C on and it stayed 185-190F
the chevy type thermostat is 3 years old
coolant overflow tank remained full to top for 1000 miles after burping
no check engine light, and the engine runs well
edit... the fan shroud was obliterated when the fan exploded, and is currently gonne
any ideas?
thanks for reading my long *** post
scott
Last edited by A5scott; 06-16-2015 at 10:56 AM.
#2
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DustyLBottoms (06-16-2015)
#6
I agree he needs a fan shroud, but that has little or no effect at highway speeds which is where he is seeing temps regularly over 200°. I have the standard thermostat, not the 180° thermostat, and my highway temps are never over 196°. Mine will creep up to 205° or so when I am sitting at a stoplight but that's it.
#7
I read it twice and still missed that part. For that I'd just try bleeding the system again. Unscrew your bleed valve (I'm assuming RoverMasterTech installed one when he did the thermo mod, I'm sure he either did or worked out some bleed system.) Then just Rev up and down for a while, then use a small funnel and try to pour some coolant straight into the bleeder. See if you can lift the hoses over height of the expansion tank when you do this. It's possible there's still air in the system, it's happened to me before.
#9
#10
ok, so if i check the temp and it's above 210F, I should be able to look thru the front end to see the condenser fan spinning. If it's not spinning like mad, the motor is cooked?
if motor is cooked, I don't want to spend $350 or $400 on a new unit. I saw a thread where other parts seemed to be the same thing... think one of those would work? or this ac delco?
Condenser Fan - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
or this ac delco?
RockAuto Parts Catalog
if motor is cooked, I don't want to spend $350 or $400 on a new unit. I saw a thread where other parts seemed to be the same thing... think one of those would work? or this ac delco?
Condenser Fan - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
or this ac delco?
RockAuto Parts Catalog