03 Disco Multiple Misfire
Hello everyone.
I just typed out this epic forum post and then I had to close my browser and lost it all. I'm not retyping it. I'll just get to the point.
In the last 12 months I've had my transfer case replaced (grinding, missing teeth), my power steering pump replaced (seized up, shredded the belt) and my throttle body replaced (would stick wide open). After each repair the truck would run great. Now, I'm having this misfire issue.
When the truck is cold, is runs REALLY rough and the CE light comes on and blinks. Once the engine is warmed up (temperature comes up to normal while idling, then about 10 minutes of highway driving) the engine smooths out and the CE light stays on solid. As long as I keep the engine warmed up, it runs fine and the CE light will even turn off. As soon as I let it cool down (like sitting all day at work or overnight) it starts all over again. I'm also putting about a quart of coolant in it/week.
I had the codes read, they said it was "Multiple Cylinder misfires" and said it was likely a head gasket (which had been replaced about 3 years ago) or a crack. They suggested trying some of that Barr's sealer stuff you pour into the coolant. That seemed to help for about a week, now the symptoms are back the way they were.
Is there any chance this isn't going to be a $2000 repair? After the transfer case and power steering, I'm pretty sure my wife will want me to just cliff this thing. It's an '03 with 120K on it.
Thanks,
Brian
I just typed out this epic forum post and then I had to close my browser and lost it all. I'm not retyping it. I'll just get to the point.

In the last 12 months I've had my transfer case replaced (grinding, missing teeth), my power steering pump replaced (seized up, shredded the belt) and my throttle body replaced (would stick wide open). After each repair the truck would run great. Now, I'm having this misfire issue.
When the truck is cold, is runs REALLY rough and the CE light comes on and blinks. Once the engine is warmed up (temperature comes up to normal while idling, then about 10 minutes of highway driving) the engine smooths out and the CE light stays on solid. As long as I keep the engine warmed up, it runs fine and the CE light will even turn off. As soon as I let it cool down (like sitting all day at work or overnight) it starts all over again. I'm also putting about a quart of coolant in it/week.
I had the codes read, they said it was "Multiple Cylinder misfires" and said it was likely a head gasket (which had been replaced about 3 years ago) or a crack. They suggested trying some of that Barr's sealer stuff you pour into the coolant. That seemed to help for about a week, now the symptoms are back the way they were.
Is there any chance this isn't going to be a $2000 repair? After the transfer case and power steering, I'm pretty sure my wife will want me to just cliff this thing. It's an '03 with 120K on it.
Thanks,
Brian
At a quart a week, no, you are looking at head gaskets assuming you have no external coolant leaks and based on your cold start rough idle.
How mechanical are you, sounds like some shop has seen you coming a few too many times already, can we walk you thru this?
How mechanical are you, sounds like some shop has seen you coming a few too many times already, can we walk you thru this?
Disco Mike to the rescue again.
Thanks. Mechanical? Ummm... I'm... I'm a life long (almost 20 years now) technology guy. Network admin, currently the technology director for a school district. Cars? I've done brakes, plugs/wire (not on my Disco though), I put the lift on myself (with the RTE spacers), I'm not sure I'd say I'm mechanical, but I think with enough coaching I could do the work. Think a motivated novice could tackle this in a weekend?
Brian
Thanks. Mechanical? Ummm... I'm... I'm a life long (almost 20 years now) technology guy. Network admin, currently the technology director for a school district. Cars? I've done brakes, plugs/wire (not on my Disco though), I put the lift on myself (with the RTE spacers), I'm not sure I'd say I'm mechanical, but I think with enough coaching I could do the work. Think a motivated novice could tackle this in a weekend?Brian
How many miles on it?
100,000 or so?
If you keep driving it - the antifreeze will go through the catalytic converters and RUIN them.
You probably have a strong smell of antifreeze or burnt antifreeze.
I would stop driving it.
And get the head gaskets replaced.
I had this same issue.
Only my cylinder #1 had the misfire..
You should have misfires on 1, 2, 7, 8 only.
Any others - and it is a big "uh oh".
If you are driving and the check engine light is BLINKING on and oFF
in a one second interval - this means that your catalytic is being subject to unburned gasoline and subject to ruin and damage.
Catalytic converter is $1000 or so.
See
1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets
100,000 or so?
If you keep driving it - the antifreeze will go through the catalytic converters and RUIN them.
You probably have a strong smell of antifreeze or burnt antifreeze.
I would stop driving it.
And get the head gaskets replaced.
I had this same issue.
Only my cylinder #1 had the misfire..
You should have misfires on 1, 2, 7, 8 only.
Any others - and it is a big "uh oh".
If you are driving and the check engine light is BLINKING on and oFF
in a one second interval - this means that your catalytic is being subject to unburned gasoline and subject to ruin and damage.
Catalytic converter is $1000 or so.
See
1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets
120K miles on it. I don't notice any smell in particular. I'll try and see tonight when I get home. I'll pull it right into the garage after my 30 mile commute. If there's a smell, I should notice it then.
Looks like the head gasket kit is about $100, but the new head bolts, close to $100 with shipping. Cheaper then having the dealer do it. That's for sure. We'll see. I just hope I can get it done in a weekend... Otherwise I'll have to drive a Chevy Blazer to work in the mean time... Yuck.
Brian
Looks like the head gasket kit is about $100, but the new head bolts, close to $100 with shipping. Cheaper then having the dealer do it. That's for sure. We'll see. I just hope I can get it done in a weekend... Otherwise I'll have to drive a Chevy Blazer to work in the mean time... Yuck.

Brian
I would put in a bottle of Barr's leaks immediately.
The $5 bottle of original Barr's leaks.
May stop some of the seep into the cylinders..
If you are really talented at engines - you may get it done in a weekend.
Took me two weeks at night and one weekend in a parking lot outside
This is what you are getting into
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
The $5 bottle of original Barr's leaks.
May stop some of the seep into the cylinders..
If you are really talented at engines - you may get it done in a weekend.
Took me two weeks at night and one weekend in a parking lot outside
This is what you are getting into
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
120K sounds about right for the head gaskets to just go.
I used Victor Reinz head gaskets
from:
Best prices on Land Rover & Range Rover parts and Accessories
And the new head bolts too.
I used Victor Reinz head gaskets
from:
Best prices on Land Rover & Range Rover parts and Accessories
And the new head bolts too.
Thanks. I had the head gasket replaced around 80K miles (~4 years ago), but I've had some problems that resulting it lots of high-reving and some brief overheating since.
High reving: Throttle body was sticking wide open after a pretty rough off-roading weekend. When I'd put the pedal on the floor (or near it) the valve would stick wide open. I had to shift into N shut the engine off and pull over to free the throttle valve. So, there were periods where the RPMs would be hitting the rev limiter or whatever is in there.
Over heating: My power steering pump seized up and caused the main belt in there to shred this past summer. So while I looked for a place to pull over (figuring I could deal without power steering) the temperature got into the red for a few minutes until I realized what was happening. Also after the pump was replaced by the dealership, they didn't refill the coolant that had sprayed out after the pump blew. (the result of over heating) So the engine ran a little hot for a few days until I figured out what the problem was and filled it up.
I replaced the Throttle Body myself. Shortly after is when the CE light came on and I started getting the misfires. I can't see how the two are related, so I'm writing that off as coincidence.
Could these couple of instances caused the problem with a relatively new head gasket?
Brian
High reving: Throttle body was sticking wide open after a pretty rough off-roading weekend. When I'd put the pedal on the floor (or near it) the valve would stick wide open. I had to shift into N shut the engine off and pull over to free the throttle valve. So, there were periods where the RPMs would be hitting the rev limiter or whatever is in there.
Over heating: My power steering pump seized up and caused the main belt in there to shred this past summer. So while I looked for a place to pull over (figuring I could deal without power steering) the temperature got into the red for a few minutes until I realized what was happening. Also after the pump was replaced by the dealership, they didn't refill the coolant that had sprayed out after the pump blew. (the result of over heating) So the engine ran a little hot for a few days until I figured out what the problem was and filled it up.
I replaced the Throttle Body myself. Shortly after is when the CE light came on and I started getting the misfires. I can't see how the two are related, so I'm writing that off as coincidence.
Could these couple of instances caused the problem with a relatively new head gasket?
Brian


