03 Disco Multiple Misfire
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 28
From: Charlotte, NC
Thanks. I had the head gasket replaced around 80K miles (~4 years ago), but I've had some problems that resulting it lots of high-reving and some brief overheating since.
High reving: Throttle body was sticking wide open after a pretty rough off-roading weekend. When I'd put the pedal on the floor (or near it) the valve would stick wide open. I had to shift into N shut the engine off and pull over to free the throttle valve. So, there were periods where the RPMs would be hitting the rev limiter or whatever is in there.
Over heating: My power steering pump seized up and caused the main belt in there to shred this past summer. So while I looked for a place to pull over (figuring I could deal without power steering) the temperature got into the red for a few minutes until I realized what was happening. Also after the pump was replaced by the dealership, they didn't refill the coolant that had sprayed out after the pump blew. (the result of over heating) So the engine ran a little hot for a few days until I figured out what the problem was and filled it up.
I replaced the Throttle Body myself. Shortly after is when the CE light came on and I started getting the misfires. I can't see how the two are related, so I'm writing that off as coincidence.
Could these couple of instances caused the problem with a relatively new head gasket?
Brian
High reving: Throttle body was sticking wide open after a pretty rough off-roading weekend. When I'd put the pedal on the floor (or near it) the valve would stick wide open. I had to shift into N shut the engine off and pull over to free the throttle valve. So, there were periods where the RPMs would be hitting the rev limiter or whatever is in there.
Over heating: My power steering pump seized up and caused the main belt in there to shred this past summer. So while I looked for a place to pull over (figuring I could deal without power steering) the temperature got into the red for a few minutes until I realized what was happening. Also after the pump was replaced by the dealership, they didn't refill the coolant that had sprayed out after the pump blew. (the result of over heating) So the engine ran a little hot for a few days until I figured out what the problem was and filled it up.
I replaced the Throttle Body myself. Shortly after is when the CE light came on and I started getting the misfires. I can't see how the two are related, so I'm writing that off as coincidence.
Could these couple of instances caused the problem with a relatively new head gasket?
Brian
Wouldn't a bad maf make the engine stall out? It would not explain the coolant loss. How does your oil look? I'm guessing since you didn't mention, it is still clean.
Were there any other codes aside from misfires? I'd do a pressure test. The dealership might have compounded your problem.
Last edited by DiscoRover007; Oct 30, 2012 at 03:08 PM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 4
A bad mass air flow will cause lots of issues.
As for your coolant loss you more than likely ruined your head gaskets or worse your heads running it that hot for as long as you did. Your coolant has to be going somewhere either a leak in a hose or your heads. Heads would be my thoughts.
As for your coolant loss you more than likely ruined your head gaskets or worse your heads running it that hot for as long as you did. Your coolant has to be going somewhere either a leak in a hose or your heads. Heads would be my thoughts.
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Mudding
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Ok, drove it home today. Once it warmed up, the light stopped flashing and it drove normal. No burning smell and I haven't lost any coolant in a week and a half. I'm inside now looking at MAF sensor now... Oil has been fine since day 1. I've been checking it since this whole thing started...
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Mudding
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Just pulled the sensor (left it in the housing) and it looks remarkably clean and happy. The wires leading up to the plug look pretty rough. All the outer insulation has rotted away and I'm left with the individual wires with their insulation. They look to be in good shape. Fuse #2 which apparently feeds that sensor checked OK as well.
The manual refers to testing voltages and whatnot on the ECU connector. Is there anyway I can test that myself without a fancy diagnostics machine? I'm an electronics engineer (by education) so I several nice multimeter and a couple modern oscilloscopes I can use. I'm just not sure if I can get to the test points.
The manual refers to testing voltages and whatnot on the ECU connector. Is there anyway I can test that myself without a fancy diagnostics machine? I'm an electronics engineer (by education) so I several nice multimeter and a couple modern oscilloscopes I can use. I'm just not sure if I can get to the test points.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
I would put in a bottle of Barr's leaks immediately.
The $5 bottle of original Barr's leaks.
May stop some of the seep into the cylinders..
If you are really talented at engines - you may get it done in a weekend.
Took me two weeks at night and one weekend in a parking lot outside
This is what you are getting into
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
The $5 bottle of original Barr's leaks.
May stop some of the seep into the cylinders..
If you are really talented at engines - you may get it done in a weekend.
Took me two weeks at night and one weekend in a parking lot outside
This is what you are getting into
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
Ok, drove it home today. Once it warmed up, the light stopped flashing and it drove normal. No burning smell and I haven't lost any coolant in a week and a half. I'm inside now looking at MAF sensor now... Oil has been fine since day 1. I've been checking it since this whole thing started...
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