03 Disco no start after fire
Long time lurker first time poster for the forums,
I have a family friend's 03 D2 with a 04-transfer case. The transfer case exploded (actual holes in the transfer case) which started a fire. I believe I've replaced/repaired everything that was damaged although I can't get the engine to run; and the fuel pump is shut off (inertia switch is good). The fuel pump will run if I jump the relay, but the engine will still not turn over.
What I've done since the fire:
- Installed new transfer case with locking diff and 4W H and L
- Replaced transmission wiring harness
- New breather lines for transfer case and transmission
- Repaired wiring for rear o2 sensors
- Tested to see if fuel pump is still functional (yes, it is)
- Tested all fuses and relays (none of them were bad)
Looking for any input to help. On the dash the red LED security light is solid (not flashing at all). That seems like it could be caused by the BCU and 10AS system. We don't have the EKA code, do have a key coded to the D2.
Should I pick up or rent a Nanocom to help with ECU <> BCU comms? Would that also help me find or resync the EKA code (if that's a problem)?
D2 is near El Paso TX (Fort Bliss) and I'm not finding any older Rover specialists shops to work with.
I have a family friend's 03 D2 with a 04-transfer case. The transfer case exploded (actual holes in the transfer case) which started a fire. I believe I've replaced/repaired everything that was damaged although I can't get the engine to run; and the fuel pump is shut off (inertia switch is good). The fuel pump will run if I jump the relay, but the engine will still not turn over.
What I've done since the fire:
- Installed new transfer case with locking diff and 4W H and L
- Replaced transmission wiring harness
- New breather lines for transfer case and transmission
- Repaired wiring for rear o2 sensors
- Tested to see if fuel pump is still functional (yes, it is)
- Tested all fuses and relays (none of them were bad)
Looking for any input to help. On the dash the red LED security light is solid (not flashing at all). That seems like it could be caused by the BCU and 10AS system. We don't have the EKA code, do have a key coded to the D2.
Should I pick up or rent a Nanocom to help with ECU <> BCU comms? Would that also help me find or resync the EKA code (if that's a problem)?
D2 is near El Paso TX (Fort Bliss) and I'm not finding any older Rover specialists shops to work with.
USA versions of the D2 did not have the EKA code option turned on from the factory. Unless someone had a Nanocom and turned that option on most likely your D2 does not have the EKA option turned on.
If your fob will lock and unlock the doors then the EKA code is not an issue for you. When the Fob unlocks the doors it turns off the immobilizer just as if you were entering the EKA if that option was turned on.
Have you switched out the interior fuse box or Body Control computer. If they have been changed they need to be re-synched. To do this put the key in the ignition to the 2nd position and after about 5 minutes the red light should go off when they re-synch.
If your fob will lock and unlock the doors then the EKA code is not an issue for you. When the Fob unlocks the doors it turns off the immobilizer just as if you were entering the EKA if that option was turned on.
Have you switched out the interior fuse box or Body Control computer. If they have been changed they need to be re-synched. To do this put the key in the ignition to the 2nd position and after about 5 minutes the red light should go off when they re-synch.
Thanks for the reply, any help is appreciated.
Key fob works to lock/unlock doors still, I have not changed the BCU or either of the fuse boxes. I've tried to use an OBD reader, but it could not connect to the ECU. I'm assuming at this point the ECU is not getting power. Just for clarification, the fire did not reach the ECU.
Thoughts on what next step I should take and how to go about troubleshooting the ECU's power issue?
Key fob works to lock/unlock doors still, I have not changed the BCU or either of the fuse boxes. I've tried to use an OBD reader, but it could not connect to the ECU. I'm assuming at this point the ECU is not getting power. Just for clarification, the fire did not reach the ECU.
Thoughts on what next step I should take and how to go about troubleshooting the ECU's power issue?
Huge progress on the Disco post fire!
ECU was not the issue; the ignition switch power supply pin was dead (Connecter P0634 Pin 1). Despite having the permanent power supply unbothered, the ECU cannot wake up without both. Meaning no ECU to BCU handshake, can't read any codes, no fuel prime or injection firing, etc. When replacing blown fuses originally, I accidently replaced passenger box fuse #24 with different blown fuse... beyond that, upon a closer look I found much of the wiring running through the center console was burned/melted.
Work done
- Replaced under hood fuse box (thought the tracks were burned, turns out it was fine)
- Replaced fuse #24 passenger box
- Repaired/replaced much of the wiring though the center console
- Fluids.
1. T case 75-90 gear oil (4.8 pt's US)
2. Tranny DEXRON 3.
Results
The truck runs and drives ok-ish, unhappy idle at 650RPM, ECU definitely needs to refamiliarize itself again. Still haven't put back the center console.
Everything except left rear fog light and mirror adjustments is functional. Anyone know how to address those issues? I'll post photos in another to hopefully add value to anyone else working on issues similar.
ECU was not the issue; the ignition switch power supply pin was dead (Connecter P0634 Pin 1). Despite having the permanent power supply unbothered, the ECU cannot wake up without both. Meaning no ECU to BCU handshake, can't read any codes, no fuel prime or injection firing, etc. When replacing blown fuses originally, I accidently replaced passenger box fuse #24 with different blown fuse... beyond that, upon a closer look I found much of the wiring running through the center console was burned/melted.
Work done
- Replaced under hood fuse box (thought the tracks were burned, turns out it was fine)
- Replaced fuse #24 passenger box
- Repaired/replaced much of the wiring though the center console
- Fluids.
1. T case 75-90 gear oil (4.8 pt's US)
2. Tranny DEXRON 3.
Results
The truck runs and drives ok-ish, unhappy idle at 650RPM, ECU definitely needs to refamiliarize itself again. Still haven't put back the center console.
Everything except left rear fog light and mirror adjustments is functional. Anyone know how to address those issues? I'll post photos in another to hopefully add value to anyone else working on issues similar.
I assume you have the wiring harness diagrams to trace out your wiring issues? You seem to pretty handy around wiring post and event like that you are just going to have to trace things out. Congrats on the progress so far. As far as unhappy idle, maybe try disconnecting the MAF sensor and see if it calms down after a few minutes of running. You might have a bad sensor.
Yes, the Electrical Library and Rave have been extremely valuable at every turn. Found out Chat GPT can also be very useful, but it will tell you false info constantly and be very set in what it says.
Definitely curious to see if unplugging the MAF helps. Unfortunately, I am trying to solve another issue which I'll make a different thread for before I can do that. Should be much easier than this project was so I'm not too worried.
Definitely curious to see if unplugging the MAF helps. Unfortunately, I am trying to solve another issue which I'll make a different thread for before I can do that. Should be much easier than this project was so I'm not too worried.
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