1170 is your downstream O2 on the left side. You did an induction cleaning, right? You might have crapped it up. Clear the code and see if it comes back before doing anything else.

The other one is trans temp. If your fluid full? Did you knock the sensor plug out on the right side of the trans cooler while you were doing other things? Wouldn't hurt to re seat it. If that doesn't work, replace it.

 

Somebody needs to make an asbestos condom to put over our O2 sensors when doing induction cleaning. Like wearing Nitril glove when working on your Rover. I cleaned the carbon off my front O2's after seafoam and no more codes. Remember these things can be finicky.

 

I didn't do an induction cleaning, just sea foam through the gas tank. I will check the trans fluid tomorrow. Thanks, sure I will be back with more questions.

 

Ahhh...I saw seafoam and thought induction.

If the O2s have never been changed, it might be that time. This is a downstream code, so it's not going to effect how the truck runs.

 

Just ran an errand from the office and the SES light went off, so dont know if the codes have cleared themselves, but the truck at idle is not smooth as glass, so I think I may do the 02 sensors and I have not flushed the trans fluid yet so I am going to do that. The diagram for the transmission temperature gauge in the rave is confusing, just has a plug pointing to the dash gauge, where might that be?

 

You're looking for the sender, not the gauge. It is on the transmission cooler (the short radiator bolted to the main radiator) on the right hand (passenger's) side. The sensor screws into the bottom of the cooler.

 

That makes a lot of sense as I had the bumper off and on to install the brush guard, I will check that. What do you make of the light turning off, does that mean the cycles have run and decided that everything checks out? Also, in your opinion, is the Trans Fluid upgrade from Dextron the way to go? And when changing out trans fluid, do you just make sure to put back in how much you take out? I dont really you fill it until it comes out the bleed screw and then check it by undoing the screw and making sure it is running out?

 

there is no sense to upgrading from the Dexton III unless you plan on having someone do it with a machine, the majority of the fluid is in the converter which cannot be easily drain. you will want to fill it until it starts to run out of the fill hole, close it up and start the truck run it threw all the gears a few times. Then climb under it while it is running (you want to check the level of all automatic trans. while they are running) and continue to fill it until it is topped off again, close it up and you should be set for another 30000 miles.

 

I recently purchased an '03 that had this tick. I knew it going in, and the price was right. This is my first rover, so I turned to the interweb and found this post. I just did the flush this weekend. The tick almost went completely away immediately after the flush, but was still barely there at idle.

I've since put on about 75 miles, and it seems to be gone. I have my fingers crossed, but this is promising. Thanks to those for sharing info.

Next up is the induction cleaning.