Hope so and what?

......

 

So what's the deal? Did you pull that cover back off and check it out? You ain't get tin' any younger!

 

Thanks for keeping me honest! =)

Well, after a very long weekend I am back to the drawing board.

Here is the work I did over the past two days - in this order:
Changed the CPS sensor out with a brand new one. (the sensor near the oilpan/gearbox)
Changed the Crankshaft position sensor with one from a friend's parts truck (the one on the timing cover)
Changed the spark plugs
Locked and Unlocked the truck using the key 5X in a row
Dropped the oil pan and cover to check the timing - while doing this we re-primed the oil pump by adding assembly lube to the suction section of the pump and turning. Timing looked spot on. Also, we watched the #1 piston and verified that it was in the "UP" position right as the dots on the gears were coming together. This is the case. The only way it is out of time is if it is 180* out - and I do not see any possible way that this could have happened. I did not touch the shafts after I pulled the original timing set off.

I tried starting the truck after each of the above checks and came back to the same results...
I would use my code reader to "clear" any faults- the truck would choke for a few seconds and then just crank without coming alive.

After all of this, we thought the motor was air-locked (to me this would mean no oil pressure). We used sprayed starter fluid in the intake while cranking- truck would try to start, but just wouldn't. (RPMs would hit 500 - 1000 for 1-2 seconds, but would drop to 0 right away).

These are a few things that i observed that i thought were odd:
1) While cranking with starter fluid spraying in the intake, the engine would cough at us (AKA - we would get back pressure coming out of the intake. twice, the starter fluid caught fire during this exercise).
2) After cranking for 3-4 seconds, all lights on the dash go out - including the oil lamp.
3) The stepper motor will run constantly with the key in the #2 on position.
4) No codes have ever shown in the current state - however, when we were cranking using starter fluid, i did get a Intake Temp code. (relevance here is that it is sending codes without running...?)



A few non-normal conditions of the truck in this stage are:
1) i don't have any coolant in the system
2) none of the plastic covers or fans are installed
3) the transmission fluid level is probably a little low as some spilled out when i took the radiator out
4) I have been leaving the battery unplugged when not trying to start

Any thoughts? Are there any weird sensor or plugs that would keep the truck from starting in other parts of the vehicle? how about vacuum leaks?

Lastly, are there any resources out there to check the ECU? I was hoping the fact that my code reader is connecting was enough, but at this point i have no idea.

Thanks!

 

Oh yes - and one other thing i wanted to mention-

there is a black plastic cylinder that sits on the passenger side right before the firewall. I am not sure with it does, but for the past 6 months it makes kinds of an odd sound at startup. It makes almost a whiney whirring sounds for the first 1-2 minutes, but after the truck warms up you can hear it shut down.

Does anyone know the piece i am talking about? If that failed, could it keep the truck from starting?

Thanks again for all of the help!

 

You are referring to the SAI pump and what you have discussed is normal as this is responsible for accelerating the heating of catalysts per emissions standards. If faulty, a code would result but would not prevent the engine from starting.

 

Thats very strange that it's back firing out the intake when you try using starter fluid, and perhaps good that it keeps shutting itself off after a few seconds when it barely starts after codes are cleared. If the timing is correct then I ha E no idea what that means, but I'm sure someone who knows more than I will certainly up with some ideas.

I just skimmed back through and I couldn't find it, I may have just missed it. What are the engine codes it throws that you keep clearing?

 

When checking number 1 for correct timing you must make sure it's TDC on the compression stroke otherwise it could very well be 180* out and TDC on the exhaust stroke. Compression stroke closes both intake and exhaust valves and with spark plug removed put finger over plug hole, piston will push air out. IF by any stretch you've done this 180* off you'll have bent valves to contend with since it's an interference engine...... To test that perform a compression test. The proper method to help prevent either crank or cam from unwanted turning while gears are off is to remove all the spark plugs. If you don't the compression that's created and not yet released can cause the cam or the crank to turn (in either direction) when your backs to it when the gear set and chain are removed. If you removed the gear set/chain and immediately replaced without removing your eyes from the two then there's a chance timing is ok.

Just curious but did you disconnect the battery before doing this work? The ECU does remain alive polling sensors while engine is off. When reconnecting battery it's a good idea to hold hood switch down before reconnecting otherwise it can set the alarm either silently or with horn blowing. When you turned the door key five times did you get an all clear from the alarm?

 

Hi Alex-

There are generally no codes at all. The code reader just says that nothing is stored. The only time i got a code was when the intake got hot, and then i got a intake temp code.

 

Hi IHScouts.

I will figure out how to do a compression test.
Is there any way to test TDC (and the finger over spark hole method) without taking the timing cover back off? I noticed a yellow dot on the crank pulley, but don't see any matching mark on the block or timing cover.

Yes, I have been disconnecting the battery while work is being done as i do not have a battery charger to juice it up it it dies. When I locked/unlocked, I used the remote buttons. The alarm seemed to be OK (no honks or anything), but Im not 100% sure how to know if it is saying "all clear".

 

Compression test uses a psi dial gauge, screws into spark plug hole, hit starter for three revs, record reading, go onto next cylinder. Looking for 150psi and up. 20psi is no compression. Advanced or Auto Zone have em to use/rent. At this point a very important tool you'll need..... The reasons are obvious but with a flame going through intake outwards I kinda wonder if the intake are shutting all the way.....eh.

You'd get the cranks mark from the crank keyway at 12 O'clock, would have to pull out the crank pulley bolt and washer to see it. Cam, kinda screwed with cover on and it's important to know where it's lined up, north, south, east or west.

At this point just find a way to get the compression test done, that has me far more concerned than anything else, talking cash with crashed valves. (PITA). The rest is just fuzzy bunny crap. If you have good compression in all eight then it's time to check timing dots....... This is square one stuff..... once you have established your 100% cam/crank timed correctly and no damage done then you can start futzing around with ancillary fuel/spark stuff.

I'll tell ya, more times than not it's something really glaringly obvious that you did while not thinking. Rerun what you did when preparing for the big gasket exchange. Are you getting fuel by the way?