Hello Rover gurus!!

04 Disco 122,000 some of the major stuff completed but not all...

Continued to have the tbh leak so I bypassed today (south west Florida does not get in the 40's). All went fine, looped the two lines together. Also changed the oil and filter while I was at it (wtf is up with the "cover plate" to get at the filter?)

Top her up with rotella, put the air filter in, connected all back up to the throttle body, reconnect the hose to the right side of the iacv, started her up just like normal. Idled for about 10 minutes as usual, then died..... thought that was odd, started her back up and let it idle for a bit and died again, just drops out no stalling. So... vacuum leak was my thought, can't find one visually, taking hoses off checking putting back together. She would start, run for 4-5 seconds, then drop out again. This went on and on. Eventually it would not start at all.

Frustrated and ready to grill some meat and have an adult beverage, put it all back together and gave a try, started perfect and idles perfect, drove around the block many times, no stalls, dying, etc.. I failed to connect the right side hose from the tb area to the right side of the iacv!!!!

So having the side not connected and she runs and idles fine?!?!

Need some opinions please. Iacv will failed that quickly?

Much thanks...

 

If you hook everything back up and give her a little throttle will she keep running fine? If yes then I'd say its a failed IACV. Are you sure you got the electrical connector on the back of it hooked back in well? I've forgotten it before. I've also had it slide off (lost the clip that holds it in place)

 

nope, just the opposite. When I hooked it all back up, it will not idle. It will start but not idle. When repairing the tbh leak I never unplugged it. The electricity connection is properly seated.

 

Remove the IAC and rotate it in your hand. Do you hear a clunk? If not it's probably stuck open/closed. You can use some brake cleaner and spray into it. A whole lot of goo will probably come out. Eventually it should rotate freely. Once it does re-install it & see how it does.

You could even leave the hose to the intake loose to test it if you'd like. With the key in position II you can sometimes hear a small buzz from the IAC.

I've seen some pretty nasty IAC's on D2's and honestly I've yet to replace one. Normally a good cleaning takes care of em.

 

I didn't have any cleaner yesterday picking it up today. Just seems odd that it runs fine Without the hose connected, connect it and it immediately drops out. I'm sure it needs cleaned. Any idea if the ecu would need to be reset?

 

It shouldn't need to be reset. I clean mine at least every 30k. I spray it with brake or carb cleaner and am always amazed the crap that comes out of it.

 

Update on the my issues...

So, long story short. IACV cleaned and good to go. Thought so anyway...

Going to work, running along at about 65 mph, I loose the ability to accelerate and my battery light starts flashing. Luckily, I was near an intersection in St. Pete and was able to limp the rover to a repair shop a 1/2 mile from where she started acting up. Summation, alternator note charging. So, new battery and reman atlernator (one year warranty)installed, headed on my way a few hours later. The reman supposedly came from Land Rover shop in Tampa. Drove fine for a couple days and she starts wining, alternator that is. Take it back to the shop, they put a 'new' reman in. I pic it up and take off, it lasted approximately 12 miles. SOOOO... 3rd new reman (and I also installed a new CPS thinking the symptoms, stalling while driving or coming to a stop) were consistent with a bad CPS. OE replacement, not the big warehouse version. And what do ya know, same symptoms and the 3rd reman alternator is not charging.

She's at Jesses Garage in Sarasota now for a diagnosis. Just curious if anyone had any similar stories with the reman alternators. Sure, sometimes a reman is no good, I get that. But the third with a new CPS seems odd. I am leaning towards a ECU issues.

ANy thoughts rover folks?

 

I apologize I don't have any experience or expertise to share with you about what's going on with the charging system in your truck, but it would be great if you could start a new thread about the alternator so that others in the future more easily be able to find the information that is sure to come. Thanks.

 

I would check the main power and ground wires to/from the alternator and the ones at the battery. Sounds like maybe a chassis ground wire is loose or maybe corrosion in the main power wire at the battery. Also check the voltage at idle, should be about 13.2 or higher and around 13.4+ while driving above 1500 RPM. Anything less than 13 and you are just running on battery and will kill or at least shorten your battery's lifespan.

 

Check the metal strip fuse in the fuse box under the hood (can slap a 150amp mega fuse in there for 5.00 from Oreilly's).

You could be metering 13+ at the alternator itself, but it might not be letting the 13+ into the fuse block.

Someone had the same issue with like 3 Alternators in a row on here months ago & in the end it was the 5.00 fuse. I carry trail spares of those fuses as they're kinda unique.