What RMT is doing is coming up with a new way to mount a stat on the D2. At the moment, you have the remote oem location, and a bypass method where a conventional stat is mounted in a remote housing. He has posted photos of a new mount method, which places the stat back in the block (where a D1 and some other Rover's have it). This would allow your selection of stat (160, 180, 192, 195, etc.) and IMHO operate more closely to engine conditions. You do away with the thermal lag time to heat up a remote stat to open. So engine coolant temp would be controlled without changes brought on by heating / cooling of the remote plumbing between the block and the stat.

 

Makes perfect sense, I do understand that. So does that mean that it will require a Block Modification? I guess if it does, I will just stick to the factory way and deal with 15-20 degrees higher temps.

 

If you were to use a housing like this you can use various degrees of t-stats. Meziere Inline Thermostat Assemblies WN0072 - SummitRacing.com

Just wondering how to deal with the Y pipe on the OEM t-stat if I try one of these.

 

I'm running at 190 to 195 with a Motorad 180 with the factory plumbing. That's measured with an aftermarket gauge and the OEM sensor through the OBD2 port. Those temps are fine with me, plus I get additional flow through the heater core at idle because of the bypass valve. I don't need to rearrange the hoses, cut the shroud, etc. What's wrong with using the factory style 180 thermostats?

 

I think the benefit will be the 20 degrees cooler... I wold be completely happy if my truck will maintain 190-195 without having to change everything! It is gonna be hard enough to change out the T-Stat to the 180!

 

My factory t-stat set up works great for me! I keep my cooling system in tip top shape.

 

All good solutions. The frozen fanny tribe from the North wants quick and prodigous heat, so they lean toward that 195 range. The sweating gator eaters want things a little cooler. The desert ratz are in a world of their own.

Changing a stat won't fix the basic problems of a sludged up cooling system, nor will running without one. Both the oem remote stat and the in-line stat suffer from separation anxiety, the plumbing between the block and the stat introduces some time lag. In the block, the stat will have the most reaction to heat changes. But - takes a while to warm up in Whitefish Montanna, it's a trade off. I can recall my neighbor running a winter or summer thermostat back in the 60's.

I do like being to run around 180F, which is where earlier versions of the Rover V-8 operated, with an 82C stat.

 

I just did the 180 stat with a flush last week (Quite a mess I made :/). I was averaging about 203-204 before with a high of 208.8 in traffic and 50 deg outside temp. Now I average 191-194 with a high of 199 in traffic. Im pleased with the results, but couldnt imagine wanting my truck to run at 180, or there abouts.

 

What temperature would be considered too cold?

 

I'm happy with my D1 running at 180-183, and up to 187 at 70 mph. At least the temp gauge moves slower than the gas gauge. Problem is the gauge, D1 or D2, both will let you think things are normal. IMHO 230 is not normal. SWMBO Kia van with 235K is 180F all the time, 23 mpg, must not cause much of an issue. Now 160, 140,,,, sure. Cold temp and ECU will squirt more fuel to warm it up, oil functions better above a cold temperature.