1999 D1 - runs beautifully....until it stalls
#1
1999 D1 - runs beautifully....until it stalls
I just picked up a 1999 D1 GEMS 107k with a known stalling problem. The PO replaced the fuel pump but it did not fix the problem so he wanted it gone. On the drive home it ran great for 25 miles, then stalled on the freeway. Restarted in about 15 minutes then ran great again for 75 miles, then stalled again on the freeway and would not start. Towed it home read out the codes: P1317 (ABS), P0430 (bank 2 cat), P0420 (bank 1 cat), and P0335 (CKP).
After much research here, the CKP seemed the likely culprit so I replaced it, but it still stalls. Sometimes it starts immediately, idles smoothly, and then stumbles a little, or just flat dies. Also dies while going down the road. Usually starts again, but not always. Happens with cold or hot engine.
Fuel pressure at the rail with key on engine off is about 37 psi, about 30 psi when idling. Fuel pressure does not change when it stalls and maintains pressure long after the ignition is off. Fresh tank of 92 octane.
STI (or is it SPI?) plug wires and NGK plugs of unknown age. No signs of arcing in the dark. Cleaned IAC and MAF (perhaps not the best thing to do). Battery reads about 12.5 volts when off and 13.9 at idle. Looked all over for bad wires and vaccuum hoses - nothing obvious. It does have an oil leak that runs down by the CKP.
Because it runs so well between stalls, it seems to me that it's an intermittant spark problem of some sort. Did I get a bad CKP, is the coil pack going bad, ECU shot? I'm at a loss. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start throwing parts at it.
Thanks,
-Frank
EDIT: Forgot to mention, after the CKP change it threw a P1316 code. I reset that and no new codes after several starts and stalls.
After much research here, the CKP seemed the likely culprit so I replaced it, but it still stalls. Sometimes it starts immediately, idles smoothly, and then stumbles a little, or just flat dies. Also dies while going down the road. Usually starts again, but not always. Happens with cold or hot engine.
Fuel pressure at the rail with key on engine off is about 37 psi, about 30 psi when idling. Fuel pressure does not change when it stalls and maintains pressure long after the ignition is off. Fresh tank of 92 octane.
STI (or is it SPI?) plug wires and NGK plugs of unknown age. No signs of arcing in the dark. Cleaned IAC and MAF (perhaps not the best thing to do). Battery reads about 12.5 volts when off and 13.9 at idle. Looked all over for bad wires and vaccuum hoses - nothing obvious. It does have an oil leak that runs down by the CKP.
Because it runs so well between stalls, it seems to me that it's an intermittant spark problem of some sort. Did I get a bad CKP, is the coil pack going bad, ECU shot? I'm at a loss. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start throwing parts at it.
Thanks,
-Frank
EDIT: Forgot to mention, after the CKP change it threw a P1316 code. I reset that and no new codes after several starts and stalls.
Last edited by Luxury; 06-16-2009 at 08:10 AM. Reason: Add info
#2
I would follow the CPK wiring all the way back and look for rubs. Also check all of the plugs for the harness and put some dielectric grease in them. Sounds like you have checked fuel pressure at the rail when it dies and it is up. I was going to say fuel filter to start...
Have you checked for spark when it dies? Oh, and you can clean the MAF on a D1, if you do it properly. They are a lot more robust than a D2.
Have you checked for spark when it dies? Oh, and you can clean the MAF on a D1, if you do it properly. They are a lot more robust than a D2.
#3
I would follow the CPK wiring all the way back and look for rubs. Also check all of the plugs for the harness and put some dielectric grease in them. Sounds like you have checked fuel pressure at the rail when it dies and it is up. I was going to say fuel filter to start...
Have you checked for spark when it dies? Oh, and you can clean the MAF on a D1, if you do it properly. They are a lot more robust than a D2.
Have you checked for spark when it dies? Oh, and you can clean the MAF on a D1, if you do it properly. They are a lot more robust than a D2.
#6
A new fuel filter is on the need-to-do list and a battery is probably a good idea too (though the voltage may be down from too much cranking and not enough running). Is there a way to test the fuel relay? Pressure seems good even when it stalls. I'm hoping to solve the stalling issue before I invest too much on other things.
I've spent way more time under this thing than in it - I need to switch that around. Reminds me of an XJ6 I had awhile back - good thing it was a beautiful car, since I spent most of my time looking at it sitting in the garage!
I've spent way more time under this thing than in it - I need to switch that around. Reminds me of an XJ6 I had awhile back - good thing it was a beautiful car, since I spent most of my time looking at it sitting in the garage!
#8
It is either a bad fuel temp sensor or a bad alarm spider.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm
#10
It is either a bad fuel temp sensor or a bad alarm spider.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm
The spider sounds like it might be the problem. One of the threads says it's present in 96-98 Discos, but I assume it's in all D1s (mine is a 99). Looks like I'll be tearing my dash apart tonight.
Thanks Spike!