ive been goin back and fourth about the inline mod actually. a 195 might do nicely but thats a pain in the *** job it looks like haha. if i could just keep it from going so damn hot all the time to cool when driving... ive noticed 215 highest cruising around town, averaging about 210, with highway running about 198ish. im goign to unhook my ultraguage and record a run with my autoenginuity pda, see maybe if its just an ultraguage error and see exactly what my hi/low points are and see if theres a relationship with the speed.

 

I think the engine is at 210, but the stat is actually cooler, and has not opened 100%. They are not snap action, it opens slowly and closes, modulating the flow. But if not enough hot coolant reaches it, it won't open as far...

 

Gentlemen, here is a recent post from a D2 owner with aftermarket temp gauge and in-line conversion. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...79/#post287536 He has owned vehicle less than a month.

180F at idle and rolling.

 

Again good link... be nice to have an actualy independant coolant temp source.

 

Update: Just put the new OEM stat in and no change. Didn't figure it would considering I tested the old one and it was OK.
Mike: Maybe next week I'll shoot you my number and we could chat. Honestly though, I think everything has been covered.
I'm just stumped and pissed here. I like the links to the inline stats, but really don't want to go that route. If the factory design works on everyone else's, it should on mine as well.
I'm still thinking it is something to do with that pressure valve, but I can't figure out if that is elsewhere hidden in the truck or just a part of the stat. If it is part of the stat, I might hollow out the old stat I have to test out that theory.

 

Hello all, Thought I would jump on your thread here. Patrick installed the inline stat, and then just recently installed the ultra gauge.

So my little Demon Spawn has hit 208 in temps. My Prince Charming is about spent on her, and can't say I blame him. I am thinking he is thinking it is time to part with her

All of you have been wonderful trying to help with over heating, coolant, head gaskets, drive shaft, temp gauges and on and on and on

I wonder if a stick of dynamite might open up that thermostat a bit more.
So if the inline is opening up at 180, why the heck does it get so hot??

 

I was wondering when we would get an update...

OK, the temp sensor is inside the block at the top of the engine, where water will be warmer than some distance away inside a hose and fitting cooled by air blasting by. There will always be some temperature difference between these two spots.

The factory 3 legged stat is rated for 180F start to open, and 204 F fully open. So 208 F is not the end of the world. It is below the point of 212F where the truck is supposed to turn on the electric fan to provide extra cooling. So at 208, you are warm, but not ready for the ambulance.

Do you still have the water gurgling sound inside the dash? If yes, you still have bubbles. Now a big bubble can make a steam room around something like a thermostat, and slow down the operation. In previous post you did say that PC drilled a hole in the new 180 stat which should allow this air bubble to pass by and prevent the stat being slowed down. When PC installed the themostat, the end with the spring coiled around it - was the spring on the side going to the radiator or the side going to the engine block? Would need to be the side going toward engine block.

Would also think that unlike the D1, where the stat sits inside the block, the remote stat depends on some circulation of water to bring hot coolant up to the stat. If stat had no bypass hole, the column of water between it and the block would need to heat by convection to reach the stat. Since a stat is now a $10 item, consider drilling a second or third hole in it, to keep water flowing and make the stat get to 180F sooner.

Do you have heat at idle once truck has come up to 180 - 208F on the ultra gauge? If not, under what circumstances do you get heat?

What temp do you get with the Ultra Gauge at say 50 - 60 mph for 15 minutes or so?

What temp do you get at idle after driving, if you leave the truck idling for 5 - 10 minutes?

I think that prince of guy has just about got the last little detail nailed down.

 

Hey Buzz, Update: Yep it was the side going towards the engine block, Yep we still are lulled to sleep by running water in the dash, yes we do have heat at idle, 208 at 50mpg, although not for 15 minutes.

Drowssap, Update: He has not done your suggestion yet, as he is not looking forward to the mess, but knows it is probably coming.

Gonna drill a couple more holes in the inline per pic, and see what happens, then if no help probably do your messy thing. I am going to call Land Rover (Shane) and ask how much for them to bleed it. Prince Charming is not happy with me doing this, so maybe I will just be sneaky. He has trouble finding these post unless I direct him to them, HAHA.

 

OP...I have the same exact symptoms. In the past year, new radiator, water pump, thermostat and total flush. I do remember noticing it a bit warmer after an off-road trip and it hasnt been the same since.

Today i broke the bleed screw so i decided to do a full flush. Used Gobal and Water Wetter, no air, and same symptoms. I wonder if it has something to do with ambient temperature and the sensor.

Hope someone can figure this out!

 

hockeymom1 - if you are monitoring temps by the Ultra Gauge, it is normal when starting from cold that temp will climb higher, then drop back, may do this a few times, each high spot being a little lower than before, as system gets to an equal situation. You are using a digital meter to watch a mechanical device, which does not turn on/off like a light switch.

Speaking of holes, think of it this way: when you turn on the hot water for the shower, it takes a short time for the hot water to get to you. Increase number of holes and that will reduce time for the hot water to get to the stat. But not too many.