maybe the coolant temp sensor is dirty or faulty, considering how much youve done and seen no changes? has that been inspected yet? maybe you have a restriction somewhere too, heatercore/radiator?

 

Well, restriction was probably checked during all the work, back flushing heater core, etc. For Engine Coolant Transducer tests, you can use an IR thermometer pointed at it or the water outlet pipe from the engine, should be close. Hard to read with an ohm meter, because resistance curve in RAVE is not detailed enough at normal temperatures. Could read sensor in the truck, when engine is warmed up, with a volt meter set to DC volts. Woild have to use sharp probes or straight pins stuck in the insulation or back side of the connector. So 212F (100C) would be 1 volt. 185F (85C) would be about 1.4 volts. Usually sensor being covered with scale (can remove and wire brush) will make readings lower than reality (insulation). Gunk on connector pins can reduce resistance, making readings higher, or if just on one pin of the connector increase resistance, making it appear cooler. But if scanner temps make sense, like cold engine start equals about ambient temp, not -40F, problems may be elsewhere. We just had a post from an owner who had his son pour in coolant as he revved engine slightly, finally it pushed the big coolant bubble through at he was happy. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...hlight=teenage

 

HM1 please see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e3/#post293384

 

Well so far the temp has been pretty good, kind of weird how the ultra gauge works, going from 179 to 190 back down the up, trying to figure out how the temp can change so much? I did call Shane at Land Rover service center, was surprised at his response. He agreed the waterfall in the dash was air in the lines, but he also said, just keep driving it and moving the air through it will eventually bleed its way out.

Patrick has not drilled the extra holes in the stat, mainly because the temps have not gotten over 208 and if it gets close to that it doesn't stay. The gauge is reading some other problems. Now he thinks the previous owner disabled the three amigo's. The gauge alarm is going off for that.

It's always something.

 

The thermostat is built to start opening at 180 F (that's the number stamped on American stats), and it will open fully usually in another 15 degrees. So the thermostat is opening and closing, and it actually lets the engine get warmer as the stat waits for the hot water to get there to open. (For new readers this is the in-line stat option). If an additional 1/8 inch hole is drilled in stat, the time lag will be reduced from time cycle to go low to high, and the high value will change to a lower number. The extra water flow will will be the same thing that takes place in a D2 regular stat, where four sampling holes move the coolant to the stat body. Normally, when the stat installed in the block, like in a D1, it quite capable of keeping coolant within 3 degrees or so of the opening temperature on modest days. Of course on a D1, the copper radiator has more capacity than the D2 radiator, and a clogged radiator will perform differently as well.

You are "discovering" why they had a simple minded gauge - too much activity makes people worry about it.

 

didnt know where was a diff between d1 and d2 radiator, can you swap easily? i was planning a new rad anyway, mines 2000 vintage 103k miles and I dont know any previous history from when i purchased it (dealer bought it at auction)

 

Probably would have to mod to fit space. D1 is a copper and brass, thicker than D2 (aluminum 2 row). D1 has built in oil cooler and tranny cooler, those are outboard on the D2 and stacked between the main radiator and the condenser. Later D2s were not equipped with the oil cooler. D1 rad can usually be rodded out, etc. and is about $600 new. D2 new is like $229.

 

My 01 D2 114k is running hot.. i have no means of temp reading but I can tell you this.. the passenger side of the radiator is not getting hot to where the drivers side is blazing along with hoses on that side?? the mechanic that i had it at a few weeks ago said the car was showing signs of over heating but for some reason the temp gauge inside wasnt going passed the half way mark.. he found it very odd and advised me to address it asap.. any suggestions?? T stat? radiator clog? water pump? where should i start?

 

Will help if you begin a new thread, so that others will see it as new and you'll get more ideas.

re: i have no means of temp reading

Attached is flow chart of the D2.

If you are driving the vehicle stop at a parts store and let them check for free codes with a scanner. They can tell you what the coolant temp is in digital numbers (produced by the ECU). You can also buy an infrared thermometer for $15 - $30. You can buy your own code reader/ scanner / code reseter / multiple gauge / gauge alarm - the Ultra Gauge - for $70.

Usualy if temp is over 212 F the electric fan will also come on. So if it is not coming on, that is one sign you are not frying just yet, unless coolant temp sensor is off normal. There is only one engine coolant sensor, it is top center between the alternator and the AC compressor. The ECU monitors it and sends a signal to move the gauge and adjust lots of other things in the truck. You can remove the plug on the coolant sensor and check for corrosion, etc. Corrosion can make ECU think temp is low.

A clean radiator in good health will usally be a pretty even temperature across it. The whole cooling system holds about 3 gallons, and the water pump moves it along at 2.6 gallons a minute at 1000 rpm. So when coolant is moving thru the radiator it does not waste a lot of time. My indy rad shop says a rule of thumb is about 10 degrees difference (that's here in warm weather land).

I would expect rad on driver's side to be pretty hot, the D2 is going to be sending 195 - 200 F water through there. The Mark I palm reader will believe it to be hot.

You or a shop (free estimate) can use an infrared thermometer to confirm what temps are where. Radiator flush is like a bath, need to have one for sure every two years. Radiator can get sludge in it, or the previous owner may have put stop leak in it, and lower rows of tubes clog up. In the summer radiator can't get rid of enough heat and you really overheat.

The D2 is designed to not distract the distinguished owner by temperature gauge movement. When warming up it stays below 9:00, when with in the range of X to Y degrees it stays at 9:00. When it begins to overheat it moves above 9:00. Of course, us old Detroit owner pay no attention to this. But the truck is already getting very warm, and is above the normal range.

However, without a scanner, IR thermometer, or Ultra Gauge (great aftermarket scanner and multi gauge $70), it is hard to tell where you are at.

You won't hurt anything with a radiator flush. You should have plenty of heat. Note that the heater core gets water all the time, there is no on/off valve.

If your water pump is leaking or the pump is wobbling that is a sure sign damage is around the corner. The thermostats can clog, make engine overheat, and if changing buy an oem.

Pix of clogged radiator, Ultra Gauge, and the D2 thermostat - with small holes that can get clogged and make truck overheat.

 

So I guess its safe to say after this lengthly thread that WaterWetter actually doesnt work??