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2000 D2 V8. Crank, but no start P1842 and P1843 codes

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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 05:53 PM
  #11  
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From: Da Windycity
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It appears from the video that your M+S lights are flashing???? I would make sure the battery is charged up FULL and check your connections. The ground connections are famous for triggering the M+S. Shock tower ground, alt, battery. Make sure they are cleaned up. Also you have the ground strap behind the engine. Make sure that is tight. Easy enough to check. What about spark? Check fuel pump pressure and power to it. On a side note I recently used an Autozone CKPS and was good to go the first time. I would look for a recent post by @Brandon318 It covered checking fuel pump and other symptoms for a no start. Lots of good info in his discovery for a no start. Good Luck.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 06:20 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Windycity_rover
It appears from the video that your M+S lights are flashing???? I would make sure the battery is charged up FULL and check your connections. The ground connections are famous for triggering the M+S. Shock tower ground, alt, battery. Make sure they are cleaned up. Also you have the ground strap behind the engine. Make sure that is tight. Easy enough to check. What about spark? Check fuel pump pressure and power to it. On a side note I recently used an Autozone CKPS and was good to go the first time. I would look for a recent post by @Brandon318 It covered checking fuel pump and other symptoms for a no start. Lots of good info in his discovery for a no start. Good Luck.
Yes the M+S lights are flashing, but the battery is brand new so I'm ruling that out. I'll check the grounds though, I didn't think to do that yet. I had a (non land rover) mechanic tell me there was no spark or fuel, I need to check for myself though to make sure. I'll check out his thread, hopefully that can shed some light on this. Thank you
 
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 07:48 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Windycity_rover
It appears from the video that your M+S lights are flashing???? I would make sure the battery is charged up FULL and check your connections. The ground connections are famous for triggering the M+S. Shock tower ground, alt, battery. Make sure they are cleaned up. Also you have the ground strap behind the engine. Make sure that is tight. Easy enough to check. What about spark? Check fuel pump pressure and power to it. On a side note I recently used an Autozone CKPS and was good to go the first time. I would look for a recent post by @Brandon318 It covered checking fuel pump and other symptoms for a no start. Lots of good info in his discovery for a no start. Good Luck.
I checked power to the fuel pump and there's nothing. I swapped the fuel and starter relays to double check and the relays seem fine. I'll have to get a spark tester next to see if I'm getting anything there
 
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Old Sep 30, 2025 | 08:58 PM
  #14  
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I followed Brandon318's recent post about a similar issue and decided to pull my fuse box and open it up. for anyone familiar with circuit boards does the above look like damage or something that could cause an issue?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2025 | 12:10 AM
  #15  
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To me the round dome solder looks like a repair. From what I have seen, the tent-like solders (pole in the middle with solder drooping outward) are what can be a problem. On the tents, the solder is thin enough that high current heats the solder, eventually melting it away in a dark black circle around the pole. A magnifying glass is useful to find the faulty solder joints, since they can be hard to see with eyeballs alone. The repairs I have done re-melt the solder and add more, that can create a shiny dome shape. More solder makes less resistance that gets less heat when current flows.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2025 | 07:05 PM
  #16  
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Sounds like it is immobilized, lock and unlock the car three times. See if it starts. If not, you will need to doublecheck the fuel pump circuit front to back.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2025 | 07:46 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Sounds like it is immobilized, lock and unlock the car three times. See if it starts. If not, you will need to doublecheck the fuel pump circuit front to back.
I did the lock unlock sequence and nothing happened, I'll dig into the fuel pump circuit and see if I can find a fault. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 2, 2025 | 05:21 AM
  #18  
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Ok, well start by verifying the fuel pump is running. if it is not chase down why. If it is and the injectors are not firing then that is likely a Ckps.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2025 | 08:17 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Ok, well start by verifying the fuel pump is running. if it is not chase down why. If it is and the injectors are not firing then that is likely a Ckps.
I used a multimeter at the fuel pump and wasn't getting anything and have ruled out the fuel pump relay and inertia switch. I've replaced the CKP sensor twice now, but I can't entirely rule that out or the wiring harness for the CKP
 
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Old Oct 2, 2025 | 10:30 AM
  #20  
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So on a hunch I swapped the ECU and BCU from a junk Disco 2 and got it to at least fire, but I'm getting a P1672 code which is the immobilizer. From my understanding I can override/rewrite/whatever the new BCU and ECU to work in my truck using a NanoCom. Is this the case? I also got a P1551, P1514, and P1668 codes, but they disappeared after I erased them so its possible those were from the donor truck except maybe the P1668 which is also immobilizer related i believe
 
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