2000 D2 won't crank
Hello, I have 2000 D2 that will not crank. I replaced the starter but the problem continues. I have good voltage at the battery. I have a transmission code p1884. I was leaning toward xyz switch. Any ideas?
Make absolutely certain the battery terminals are crystal clean & that the battery terminals are good and tight. 90% of the time all of those issues are due to dirty battery terminal connections or terminals that aren’t tight. Also clean & check your grounds.
What voltage is at the fuse block +? You should have a min of 12.5v or higher. If it’s 12.9v at the battery itself, but much lower at the fuse block = dirty or bad battery connections.
What voltage is at the fuse block +? You should have a min of 12.5v or higher. If it’s 12.9v at the battery itself, but much lower at the fuse block = dirty or bad battery connections.
Did you check to see if you had current at the small post of starter, while key is in crank position? Also, check the ground cable where it mounts to the alternator bracket, known area for corrosion. Oops, l see "best 4x4" mentioned ground cables.
Brian.
Brian.
Are there any other indications there's a problem with the XYZ switch? If "P" is displayed on the instrument panel LCD and the light next to the "P" next to the shifter lights up when you're trying to start the truck it's not the XYZ. If those indicators are on, the XYZ switch is signaling to the BCU that the truck is in Park.
Hi guys, I have checked all the grounds and they all appear to be in good condition. I am not getting a drop in voltage at the fuse block so my terminals appear to be good and clean. I can get the starter to crank by jumping the solenoid. My dash and shifter lights are displaying the correct gear so I guess that rules out the xyz. Any other ideas?
As far as I can tell (I can't hear very well) it is clicking at both the solenoid and the relay. The starter is brand new and I switched out relays and still clicks. It will start with the key on and jumping the solenoid.
there are two wires that there are two wires that go to the starter solenoid, the battery cable and the wire to energize the solenoid. The battery cable was obviously hot with 12 volts at all times, the small energized wire should be hot with 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the start position, get a Helper and use a test light to confirm that is the case. Check the connections at the solenoid, particularly the one that comes out of the solenoid and connect the tab coming out of the starter. You can actually test all of this with the starter out of the truck on the ground, much easier to get to. If there is no voltage when the key is in the start position at the energized wire, go back to the fuse box and check your voltage at the relay terminals.
If you have power (12 volts) at the starter, on the ignition wire (small one, with key in crank position)...you should also check the circuit with a headlight bulb, on a set of leads (one lead to the terminal and one to ground, while key is in crank position). One strand one wire will pass 12 volts to light a test light, but will not activate the solenoid or light a head light. If it lights a head light bulb...it is carrying enough amperage to pull starter solenoid...and tells you the wire is good (not rubbed through partially). If it doesn't light the head light bulb (but test light shows power/12 volts)...wire may be compromised.
If you are not getting any power there, do as suggested above...check fuses, relays and wiring harness.
Brian.
If you are not getting any power there, do as suggested above...check fuses, relays and wiring harness.
Brian.
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