So this sensor is either "work" or "no work" type of thing? Can it "start to go bad"? What will the symptoms be if it can "start to go bad"?

Thanks.

 

Ok, ok, ok... Found it in the RAVE..

In the event of a CKP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed: l Engine cranks but fails to start.
l MIL remains on at all times.
l Engine misfires (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).
l Engine runs roughly or even stalls (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted). l T achometer fails to work.
l Flywheel adaption reset – ferrous contamination
If the CKP sensor fails while the engine is running the engine will suddenly stall, this is because the CKP sensor has no backup strategy. If this happens the ECM will produce a fault code that it can store in its memory. If the engine is not running when the CKP sensor fails, the vehicle will crank but will be unlikely to start, and no fault code will be generated. In this instance the MIL lamp will remain illuminated and the tachometer will fail to read.

 

Here's a pix of a CKP, a dumb (no semiconductor devices needed) coil of wire around a metal post. That tip can't have metal fuzz on it, or be bent. If the coil heats up and poor solder joint fails or a broken wire opens up, signal is lost. It is positioned, by use of the correct spacers and nut positions, very near the drilled reluctor disc, in that channel between the "bumps". It flies by just a millimeter or two away, and the electrical signal geneated is sent to the ECU, one pulse every six degrees of rotation, minus one break spot for sync. You can see the drilled plate in the view up the oil pan. The teeth on the outer edge of the flywheel are engaged by the starter when the pilot in command turns the key to light the fires. Too much grinding starter can make that metal fuzz that causes ferros contamination of the CKP tip, dropping the signal output level and/or making the pulse too wide (fat) for the correct function.

Yep, spacing is critical. Yep, it is in a spot that is hard to reach, so plugging it in and letting it dangle is a good idea. Yep, there is a different large spacer for manual or automatic transmissions.

The typical failure starts with engine not wanting to crank back up when hot. Pouring cold water on sensor or allowing it to cool restores the broken connection, and off you go. If all you ever do is make the $40 trip to work, and then the same trip home, and don't do errands, you may not experience this as engine cools off plenty before you try to re-start. SWMBO on a taxi run is another matter. Eventually the sensor is just failed all the time. No sensor, no spark. No detection of 80 rpm, fuel pump inhibits. I don't know the plain old ohms of the coil. If some one could measure a new one and post that would help guys trying to ohm it out.

 

And also if the spacer was not in before like you stated then the tip of sensor would have been to far in and making contact which in turn would make the sensor fail.

 

WOW getting to that connector is nearly impossible. I was pinching the little connector and trying to pull, and could not get it to budge. My skinny arm barley fit between the oil pan and cat, just to barley reach the connector.

Granted everything under there was covered in oil and grease. So I soaked with degreaser and hosed down. Waiting for my driveway to dry a little and give it another go.

Anyone have other pointers for getting it out?

 

I'm not getting any stalling (except when I throw the truck into Reverse), but I have rough idle, and was thinking this might be it (combined with the stalling when going to Reverse). Typically the stalling happens when the truck is hot.

 

You need to power scrub your engine seriously get the power washer and clean the hell out of it yes you may get some misfires for a bit until that water dries but it will not hurt anything at all. Then you need to find the leaks and fix them take dielectric grease and fill all your electrical connections and spark plug boots and keep the oil out of them it will cause big problems and may be puzzling to figure out.

 

Take my advice... changing this CKP is a absolute PIA!!!!
It is nearly impossible to get the clip unplugged.

I am now in the process of removing the cats to create more room, which that in itself is getting the best of me. Between rounding a bolt on the pipe, and trying to get the o2 off the passenger side... This might turn out to be a long day/night

UGH!

 

Indications of failing or failed crankshaft position sensor (CKP)

And do not assume you will find any On-board diagnostic codes (DTC)

I actually disconnected the CKP connector just above the sensor while the truck was running

It simple stalled without a single sputter.

There were or DTC codes

You could crank until the battery goes dead and there will be no fule pressure and not a signle spark

I am also assuming that the main fault indicator light (Service Engine Soon) or MIL only turns on if there is a DTC code in wating.

I am also asusming that the CKP sensor is the only mission critical sensor that will unconditionally force the engine control module (ECM) to disable both the fuel pump relay and ignition coils. Evnen the oil and tempeature sensors only result in MIL and audible warnings and the mass air senor would result in poor operation

 

CKP Probelm finally solved

The problem was most likely the female socket at the connector just above the sensor. The problem was solved by removing the sensor and splicing on a shiled cable directly to the sensor cable and running it directly back to the ECM connector.