So I went out to the truck started fine this morning. Drove less than five miles stopped for gas started fine parked across the street and it would not start less than five minutes latter when I came out of the store. Lights where bright I have full dash radio etc no solenoid click nothing. I went back 3 hours later started right up like there was never an issue. Drove it home shut it off started right back up. I let it sit 10 minutes started right up. Latter in the day I went out truck was cold got in started right up drove less than a mile in the rain and it felt like I was tapping the breaks three or four rimes then it went away. Stopped at my destination sitting in the truck foot on the brake and it stalled. Started right back up then staled again now it’s right back to no click no crank but battery seems strong. Truck as cooled off still won’t start.

At this point I would normally say it’s the starter but why would that have cause the truck to stall? The truck has never stalled on me before except once 4 weeks ago on the highway doing 70mph and I just restarted it at which point I got the three amigos. It must be a lose connection but where do I start?

 

check your batt cables, they could be loose, or dirty, your alternator could be going bad, which could cause the stall.

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t-start-43936/

could also be crank position sensor, about $60

Both battery connections and the large wire connections in under hood fuse block should be clean enough to kiss. If not, keep cleanin'.

When you say "won't start" does that mean starter does not make a noise and turn over the engine? No clicking of solenoid?

Could also be bad battery, check with voltmeter or have auto parts store check it for free.

 

Battery is new and connections are tight and kissable. Connections just behind the battery I think they are all ground connections are near kissable also tight.

When I say it won’t start there is no clicking from the starter solenoid and the starter motor is not turning or attempting to turn(so presumably it’s not being asked to turn by the key or someplace in between).

If it was the crank position sensor I get that might make the truck stall but shouldn’t it crank and not catch. That’s how I remember it last time that went.

I had confirmed the alternator was charging a few weeks back when I replaced the battery. I will check that again and charge the battery to see if that will get it going again. But if the alternator was bad shouldn’t the battery be stone dead.

I’m wondering if there is a lose connection someplace in the path between the key and the starter/ECU. Can anyone tell me where the ECU is and if lose or dirty connections to the ECU are a known issue.

 

In the free RAVE download, in directory LT, the Disco 2 manuals are found. The wiring diagram manual, page 50, has the charging and starting layout.

a description follows:

From + battery, to underhood fuse box, through 50 amp fusible link, to igintion switch, to fuse F23 inside truck fuse box, back to starter relay coil inside the underhood fuse box, thru coil, and off the the BDU. So functions of the BDU can inhibit cranking. Like alarm immobilization, etc.

The starter relay gets + battery from fuse link 13 (30 amp) in the underhood fuse box and send it to the starter solenoid.

So if you hear no click, and fuses are good, something that is monitored by the BDU (Body Control Unit) is keeping you from starting. Try reset of the inertia switch.

The ECU is under the right side of the dash.

If you hooked up a flat screen TV, you can muddle through the RAVE wiring diagrams, and the electrical manual. Knowing what codes are present may help as well.

 

Thanks for the encouragement.

I just checked all the fuses and relays in the fuse box under the hood other than one 40amp fuse for the fan everything looks fine. After pulling the relays the truck now starts. So maybe pulling the relays reset something? I’m not sure how to reset the BCU inertia switch but I can do a search on that.

One other complication I have added to the troubleshooting because I’m lazy. While I was under the hood I used the remote starter to start the truck after fiddling with the relays. So it’s possible that I rest nothing and instead bypassed some other controls with the remote starter. It’s also now starting fine with the key.

While I research resetting the inertia switch for possible future troubleshooting can anyone tell me why or what would trip it.

 

The inertia switch is a cube looking thing with a round button spot on top, near firewall on passenger side. It's job is to cause things to happen when in a crash, one is unlock doors so you can be dragged out by the motivated bystanders. It can also cause fuel pump to shut off, etc. because it signals the BDU. It trips when bumped, how many potholes it will take must be a trade secret.

 

The inerita switch will not permit the starter to activate. The crank sensor could cause it to stall and or not start but it has no effect on the starter, so I would rule it out. My concern would be your removed starter, they never work well in Rovers.

 

I have had the remote starter in the truck for about 6 years now so perhaps it is creating an issue. I will keep you posted if it I can make it happen again etc.

 

Ok, I think I might be getting a little closer to tracing the issue down. I went back out truck was still starting and I decided that I wanted to clean the three ground connections between the battery and the fuse box under the hood. While I was doing that I had to pull on those cables to get a good angle with the wire brush. After I was done the truck would not start. I tried pulling the relays I had before still no go I checked all the fuses inside the truck and tried the remote starter still noting. But while I was in the truck with my hand on the really in the fuse box I could feel that engage which gave me the idea to get under the truck and see if I could feel the solenoid engage. While I was positioning myself I had to push against the wires that run from the starter back up to the battery where the ground wires are in general. After that it’s starting again. So I now suspect the problem is the wires going to the solenoid but I will have to get the truck up in the air and remove the heat shield to get a better look. Can someone point me to some good photos or a video of removing the starter so I can get an idea of what’s involved with removing that heat shield.

Also while I was under the dash in that fuse box I noticed it was unusually damp. My assumption here is that the windshield that was replaced last month is leaking. Probably not helping my situation.