Hey Everybody,

I have an opportunity to purchase a one-owner 2000 Land Rover Discovery with 130,000 miles from a neighbor in Florida. He is a British fellow and has a real attachment to the vehicle, but he just retired and doesn't drive it much anymore. He drives it about once a week and it sits in the shade of his carport when it is parked. I have not taken a very close look at the vehicle YET, but I believe that it is in quite good condition.

I just need a cool utility vehicle to do local driving, and I believe that this will suit my needs with wife, kids, dog, and Home Depot runs.

I have always completed a great deal of maintenance on my vehicles myself. I am well versed with oil changes, radiator hose replacement, radiator replacements, brake jobs, and much more. I have many tools and experience. So I can do much of the maintenance myself.

I am going to take it for a spin tomorrow. I am excited.

I do not yet know whether the vehicle is a I or II. Needless to say, are there any things that I should look out for? What would likely be the next expensive repair? Are there any systems that are sure to fail if they have not already failed? Any advice from seasoned Land Rover Discovery owners would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You,
--Neal

 

I created a post a long while back with the typical failure mileage. Lots of first time to-dos, If I was buying it I would immediately replace all the hoses, do the inline thermostat mod, pcv mod, and get religious about checking coolant every saturday. If you want an extra level of security with reliability replace the water pump and radiator and coolant bottle.

Here is my recommended list of first things to do:

1. PCV mod to prevent oil leaks
2. Inline Thermostat Mod to prevent overheating - check with Jason Feuerstein, he recently did this and was surprised it does not get over 185.
3. Replace all original cooling system plastic or rubber components to prevent overheating and head gasket job
4. Sunroof leak issues - search my post - prevents headliner issues.
5. Coat CPS cover with aluminum foil to prevent CPS failure.
6. Remove door panels and lubricate window regulators to prevent common failures.
7. Lubricate cargo door handle to prevent rust seizing
8. Lubricate door straps to prevent popping
9. Coat rear frame to prevent rust
10. Remove and coat cowl panel with bedliner spray to prevent UV cracking
11. Wax exterior to prevent clearcoat fading
12. Lube front driveshaft and/or replace u-joint to prevent failure
13. Replace shifter boots - make your own with leather and superglue
14. Check idler bearings for wear and replace if necessary
15. Sand and recoat fender flares with bedliner.

 

Great list above. I’d bump #12 to the top of the list, and I’d add picking up an Ultragauge, which plugs into the OBD port and you can use it to monitor coolant temp. The gauge on the dash is useless - it’s electronically controlled and as such, it won’t budge from dead center of the dial until your truck is already overheated.

If it still has the stock radio, you can get an adapter for like $140 that plugs into the back of the unit and gives you Bluetooth connectivity (in place of the 6 disk cd changer).

 

If it's from 2000, it's a D2. The last year of the D1 was 1998.

 

99 was a 50/50 split with D1 & D2's being sold. Same kinda thing happened in 95 when you could still get a 95 RRC SWB/LWB or a 95 P38.

 

have it put on a lift; or crawl under the *** end, and look for rust on the frame rails...I’m not talking about “rust color”; I’m talking about rust.

if it hasn’t happened already; at around 170,000+ miles....be prepared for a head job.

i have repaired, or replaced the following; and nearly everything I have repaired or replaced is a COMMON ISSUE that almost every Disco owner has faced:

complete top end job from headgaskets up.
replacement of rear 1/4 frame.
water pump.
High pressure a/c lines.
cruise control bladder and vacuum lines.
front half shaft / hub / abs.
repaired all 5 electronic door actuators.
replaced drivers side window regulator.
replaced both rear brake calipers and caliper carriers - because of rust.

i am fortunate that I have been able to do all this work myself; and the other work coming that I have not gotten to yet.

if you can’t do it yourself; and you do not have a lift or access to a lift....you better have deep pockets.

if I knew going in, what I know today about the very common, systematic lack of quality in workmanship, and the unreliability of this vehicle....I would have run from it as fast as I could.

but I am so far into it today...that I have no other choice but to keep going.

regardless of anything else...if the rear frame is rusted....walk away.

Doc

 

You should be immediately keen on:

-- Overheating (get an ultra gauge, trust me, watch temps like a hawk... research here for norms)
-- Head gaskets (a result of above)
-- Oil leaks (if severe)
-- Rust on frame esp in rear
-- Sunroof Leaks (which can cause a litany of water ingress, fuse box, wiring, ECU issues if left unaddressed, not to mention mold or rust on floors)
-- Replace the front driveshaft as it's likely still from factory (they grenade)

All can be researched on here and in a day or two you'll know everything.

I'd say all the other things are lower priority.

 

Have to agree with everyone here on the Ultra Gauge as the priority. Depending on where your temps sit should dictate your next move. For me, mine was doing a preventive HG job at 92K... And before I ordered any parts I did a through exam of my cylinders and heads. From there I replaced everything from the cam shaft north along with all the cooling system components. With a project like this you will know your Disco intimately which will guide you on how much of future investments you can justify. After my essential overhaul, my confidence in my Disco allowed me to justify adding all the fun toys such as a lift kit, roof rack, light bars,oversized tires and upgraded audio with confidence.

 

Welcome to the forum Neal.

 

Hi @Neal Rosenblum and welcome. I am going disagree with @ReconDoc83 on all those things being common issues. Of that entire list I have only done the driveshaft and head gaskets, driveshaft because of inadequate you actually have to grease it. Head gaskets, because I suspect there was a prior replacement and the heads were incorrectly torqued or not trued. . The rear frame is only an issue if you live where there is heavy salt exposure.

But you are getting into a 20 year old vehicle, no matter who made it, it is going to need maintenance. How much is really down to prior care and luck.

The biggest issue is finding someone will to work on it, if you can not do it yourself. Lots shops will not touch them, I have no idea why they are pretty basic.

And the fuel mileage is pretty much non existent 25 gallon tank and about 300 mile range on a good day.